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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport
FA: Scott Stevenson 5/95
Page Views: 5,005 total, 38/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 9, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Start up the slab where there used to be a sketchy ladder made of sticks. Go up the vertical part which is like Junco but harder. Pull a fun mantle move and be happy, you are half way there, though the crux awaits. Move through some tricky delicate slab climbing which scares sport climbers (who are not used to slab climbing) every day. The climbing here is like Lonesome Dove but harder.

Apparently, you can move left to grab the edge of the chimney to your left, but I've always avoided the left edge and gone straight for the top (the direct I hear is 5.11).

However, you do the crux expect fun climbing, on perfect rock and a beautiful view. The fact that it is similar to Junco and Lonesome Dove means it is going to kick ass.

Location

Just left of Junco and right of the chimney of Nut Hatch.

Protection

Originally 5 bolts to quick clips, but recently bolts have been added to the bottom slab section.
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
  5.10b/c
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
  5.10b/c
fun climb with some thoughtful and thin moves. I wouldn't put this at a 10 if you use the left side (chimney) at the crux, I went straight up and it felt like a mid 10 climb to me. Oct 12, 2016
Graham O.  
 
The crux for me was the big move to the sloping rail (I'm 4'7 so that didn't quite help). There is a little vegetation after the low angle scramble at the start, but other than that really fun route that's a great addition for this wall stacked with classic moderates. Aug 5, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.10
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.10
A pretty good route, though I believe that lonesome dove is a much better option. I really can't put a grade on this, the best way I've heard slabby routes like this put is: if you can climb it, it feels like 5.6; if you can't climb it, it feels like 5.12. Jun 14, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Any Quincy Quarries climbers out there who have climbed Hammond Organ? The route would fit in very nicely at the Quarries. It's steep, but not overhanging, and the crux is thin and smeary. The route reminds me of Ladder Line, but Hammond Organ is not as sustained at the grade. A good route, no question, and (refreshingly) different from a lot of Rumney routes. Aug 3, 2013
Jason Scott Heacock
Milford, NH
 
Jason Scott Heacock   Milford, NH
 
I sent this route first go this past summer and was super impressed with the moves, but i went right up the bulge (after the mantle) and it seemed 5.11 for sure.... Skip the flake out left, and avoided the awkward seeming out right, then left sequence. Love this cliff jimmy! Nov 28, 2012
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
  5.10d
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
  5.10d
First time on this route today. Very impressed. I liked it better than Lonesome Dove, though not more than Junco. The crux was a puzzler, but I got it worked out trying a few different sequences. Very nice. Recommended. May 19, 2012
S. Neoh  
I did the route today by heading left to the arete at the fifth bolt. Pretty nice with just one thin move. Mid 5.10 is my guess for grade this way. As for the mantle, if you are half way decent with slopers, the insure mantle move can be totally avoided with some creative high step. May 6, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I feel it is still .10d because the crux is still the same, and I agree a very mental crux on great face climbing. Aug 4, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
5.10b/c
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
5.10b/c
The crux, for me, is all mental, and super well protected so check it out Jun 17, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
this route looks so non threatening from the ground but i know as soon as i get up into the buisness im gonna be like.... damn.... Jun 16, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
5.10b/c
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
5.10b/c
This route is in the old guide book at .10d. Rightfully so when the bottom bolts where to the left of where they are now I bet it was .10d (They got moved to the better line about 3 feet right). I suck at grading, but i've been told it's now .10b, maybe .10c and I feel like that's right on. Either way, fin climb and don't underestimate it cause there's some thin but good moves. Jun 16, 2009
BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
A lot of fun and a tough crux at the top (either way you do it, right or left). I also saw someone whip when they didn't make the mantle move - it was a long fall, because the belayer was pulled up the wall...might want to make sure a smaller belayer is tied in or something May 26, 2008