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Jimmy Cliff

New Hampshire > Rumney

Description

Jimmy Cliff is a schist crag at Rumney that is really is composed of two separate walls that are in close proximity of each other. Locals refer to the whole crag simply as "Jimmy Cliff," but when a distinction needs to be made, people refer to either the left or right side of the crag. Both parts of Jimmy Cliff are situated high on Rattlesnake Mountain, which makes Jimmy Cliff one of the least "seepy" crags at Rumney. Both crags also tend to receive a breeze and partial or full sun. Taken together, these attributes make Jimmy cliff a good choice after a rain.

Jimmy Cliff sees it's fair share of traffic, especially as parties filter their way up from lower crags. Both sides of the crags have a number of easy and moderate climbs close together, which make them popular with large groups of beginners that are willing to walk more than 20 feet from the parking lot.

Notable climbs include the multipitch slab hike Clippidy-Do-Dah (5.5), the bouldery and short Things as They Are Now (5.12a), and Lonesome Dove (5.10a) a must-do four star slab climb that will leave aspiring rock jocks scratching their head.

Getting There

The approach is maybe 20-30 minutes long. Avoid putting on that extra layer in the parking lot, because you'll probably be sweating by the time you reach the crag.

From the small Rumney parking lot, continue hiking down the nice graded trail paralleling Buffalo Road. Take the steep wooden staircase up the hill like you are going to the left side of the Main Cliff, but above the stairs take the Short Cut Trail left, which takes you above the 5.8 Crag and then up and above Monsters. Follow wooden signs for Darth Vader and Waimea. The first obvious crag you get to is Lower Darth Vader (Bonsai and Upper Darth can be seen above before you reach it). Continue left here, walking left on the talus below the crag, and up stone steps. The next crag you get to will be the impressive Waimea. After gawking at the wildly overhung climbs and possibly wildly hung over climbers, follow a short series of stone steps and safety lines up and right from waimea, take a left up the next obvious trail, which ascends to Jimmy Cliff. When you get to a fork in the trail, decide whether you want to go to the left or right end Jimmy Cliff.

Routes from Left to Right

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 89
Pine Tree Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 655
Clip a Dee Doo Dah
Sport 2 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
 20
The Searchers
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 212
Lady and the Tramp
Sport 2 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 22
Standard Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 2
Cracker Cracks
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 219
The Beginning of All Things
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 199
Things As They Are Now
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 155
Things as They Are
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 130
Curl Up and Fly
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 126
Easter Squall
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 33
Alcove Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 305
Things I Never Learned
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 308
Things You Should Have Learned i…
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 194
Piece of Cake
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 251
Teacher's Pet
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 4
Jimmy Crack Corn
Trad 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 33
Hypocrisy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 263
Drilling for Dollars
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Love Nest
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 91
To Love, Honor and Belay
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 430
The Nuthatch
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 287
Hammond Organ
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 904
Junco
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 980
Lonesome Dove
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 4
When Pigs Fly
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 3
Scare Crow
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
 4
Stool Pigeon
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pine Tree Crack
 89
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Clip a Dee Doo Dah
 655
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Sport 2 pitches
The Searchers
 20
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R Trad 2 pitches
Lady and the Tramp
 212
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport 2 pitches
Standard Route
 22
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 2 pitches
Cracker Cracks
 2
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
The Beginning of All Things
 219
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Things As They Are Now
 199
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Things as They Are
 155
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Curl Up and Fly
 130
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Easter Squall
 126
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Alcove Crack
 33
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Things I Never Learned
 305
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Things You Should Have Lear…
 308
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Piece of Cake
 194
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Teacher's Pet
 251
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Jimmy Crack Corn
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 4 pitches
Hypocrisy
 33
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Drilling for Dollars
 263
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Love Nest
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
To Love, Honor and Belay
 91
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Nuthatch
 430
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Hammond Organ
 287
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Junco
 904
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lonesome Dove
 980
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
When Pigs Fly
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad
Scare Crow
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad
Stool Pigeon
 4
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From left to right:<br>
<br>
Red - Pine Tree Crack 5.4<br>
Yellow - Clip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah 5.3<br>
Blue - The Searchers 5.3R<br>
Orange - Lady and the Tramp 5.4<br>
Maroon - Standard Route 5.3
[Hide Photo] From left to right: Red - Pine Tree Crack 5.4 Yellow - Clip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah 5.3 Blue - The Searchers 5.3R Orange - Lady and the Tramp 5.4 Maroon - Standard Route 5.3
Right side of Jimmy Cliff...
[Hide Photo] Right side of Jimmy Cliff...
This is the left wall of the Alcove...
[Hide Photo] This is the left wall of the Alcove...
The Alcove area at Jimmy Cliff... So far im not sure which is which on the right most routes...
[Hide Photo] The Alcove area at Jimmy Cliff... So far im not sure which is which on the right most routes...
Jimmy Cliff in its entirety.
[Hide Photo] Jimmy Cliff in its entirety.
The left side of Jimmy Cliff, the 5.12 wall
[Hide Photo] The left side of Jimmy Cliff, the 5.12 wall
Name that anchor! :)
[Hide Photo] Name that anchor! :)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joel Pastuszak
Concord, NH
[Hide Comment] If your friends are trying climbing for the first time, are willing to take a little hike, and you want something harder to work on...give this crag a try you will not be disappointed. I brought a first time climber out and she onsighted one of the easy/moderates while the more experience climbers played on the 5.9's, 10's, and 12's. Good times. trust me. Jun 28, 2007
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] Does anyone have any information on the bolted route left of Drilling for Dollars (5.8)? It looks tough. Jul 17, 2009
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
[Hide Comment] Yeah Matt... i just put up a description... i hadn't realized that it was yet to be posted... It has been years since i have done it but i remembered the general idea and put what i remembered... Jul 17, 2009
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] thanks lee I had wondered about it, i will have to get on it soon, thanks man Jul 18, 2009
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] The other day I dragged the trad gear up to Jimmy Cliff and i ended up leading the gully between clip-a-dee-do-dah and Lady and Tramp. it was fun but a little run out. should I post something like this or leave it as a comment? Sep 7, 2009
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] The approach directions should really be changed to going up the Short Cut trail, rather than walking up the road. It is faster and eliminates friction with local drivers May 21, 2010