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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 6,246 total · 45/month
Shared By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 22, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This short climb may feel more reminiscent of a V4 boulder problem. Not coincidently, it is a popular first 5.12 for boulderers and young climbers.

This climb has a cruxy and memorable start that requires body tension and reachy oppositional side pulls. After sticking a deadpoint throw, the climbing becomes progressively easier.

Location

This route is at the left side of Left Jimmy Cliff. The start is marked by two counter-top sized slabs of rock that lie flat on the ground. Toprope and lower off of quickdraws clipped to the anchors whenever possible. Otherwise rappel off, or be lowered directly through the anchor.

Protection

3 bolts with two welded shut cold-shuts for an anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
This is the only 5.12 I've done many times.... The opening moves are so cool and require such delicacy and attention to detail.... I feel like it is worth doing whenever I'm in the area....
If you haven't done it yet...do it today...ok, well it's like 15 degrees out right now so you are off the hook, but do it soon.... Feb 9, 2007
Ladd

  5.12a
Ladd    
  5.12a
Great climb, gotta love the bottom sequence.
Anchors could use replacement. Apr 29, 2007
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
I was surprised at how delicate and precise the opening moves are considering how dynamic the problem is. The climb is short, but good. Jun 28, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i took a run up this route today and found it still to be fun...it seems like a few holds have broken off, cause i had to change my beta from what ive done before... still felt 5.12a but slightly different... May 12, 2008
James Otey
NH
  5.12a
James Otey   NH
  5.12a
Yeah when I climbed it last summer there was a slightly loose sidepull that seemed to be facing imminent demise. What it left was the same size, however, and didn't change the difficulty. I just love the opening moves- sequential and delicate. May 12, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
tim man great work hope it goes soon, when i back form australia i will be sure to get on this with you May 18, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i just got on this for the first time today! wicked fun! i got a little mentaly psyched out so i didnt sent but i got all the moves on it and i think it will go next time out :) May 18, 2009
T Seas  
As a boulderer and timid leader new to the grade when I first climbed this, I osighted on TR and loved the climb. I came back the next day pumped to lead it. I was so excited that I stick clipped the first bolt, tied in and flashed to the anchors!

When I yelled take, I weighted the rope, and it didn't feel right. I looked down and noticed that I had tied into only my lower tie in point. I learned a valuable lesson without any pain or inverted falls. Don't get so excited for a climb you forget the basics.

I agree with all on this, really fun climb and a popular route for boulderers, with a wicked fun start. A good size reach helps too. Dec 16, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks for the story.... its always good to share your mistakes (we all make em) to help save others from making the same ones... Dec 17, 2009
Lincoln  
Amazing climb. Great moves to great rests. Mar 19, 2010
tscupp
Englewood, CO
  5.12a
tscupp   Englewood, CO
  5.12a
Very fun, good move after good move. I flashed the lunge but it took me several tries just to figure out the beta for the moves after the jug so be prepared because it's not over yet! Mar 21, 2010
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Tried and failed this climb today. I felt like it was harder above the deadpoint. I got stuck there trying to move above it. Apr 21, 2012
James Otey
NH
  5.12a
James Otey   NH
  5.12a
Interesting- I thought it was about a V4 deadpoint to a 5.10 top out Apr 24, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
after the dead point there are still a couple of tough crimper moves leading to jugs... i never celebrate until i hit the first big jug... Apr 25, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Maybe I am just using whack beta after the dead point. I was trying to utilize a high right hand sloper and a high foot on the dead point jug. May 5, 2012
josh villeneuve
Enfield, CT
 
josh villeneuve   Enfield, CT
 
I actually had the same problem. Kept getting through the crux no problem but fell a few times going for the jug right before the topout. My foot was on a smear chip that has tons of rubber on it, it kept cutting. Aug 8, 2012
Dan Pfistner
BEVERLY, MA
Dan Pfistner   BEVERLY, MA
Make sure you bring a brush, the lower half of this route is smooth like a marble countertop and has a hefty chalk-cake on the opening sidepulls. Bring precise footwork and long arms as well. May 27, 2014
Jon Frisby
Brooklyn, NY
  5.12a
Jon Frisby   Brooklyn, NY
  5.12a
If you cross into the side pull just right of the deadpoint jug, lean back and bring your left heel up to the jug, it's super secure going for the crimp. Then you rock onto your toe and grab the other side pull crimp and hit the shelf. Careful about rope-over-leg with the heel hook Oct 27, 2014
Eli
GMC3500
 
Eli   GMC3500
 
The anchors on this climb could probably use replacing if that was not too tall an order. Given it's popularity I think that it should probably be on the short list. Also you have to top the thing out, it feels great. Apr 14, 2015
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
  5.12a
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
  5.12a
Felt like a V5 to a couple of 10+ moves. Agree that the anchors need replacing with glue-ins as the 5.10 route to the left will gradually loosen a wedge or 5-piece bolt. Apr 15, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Getting close on the downclimb crux

youtu.be/dKX4qYxj14U Nov 22, 2016

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