The first pitch goes up diagonally to the beginning of the broken rock area. this first section isn't bolted and there isn't gear but the climbing isn't bad. Maybe the start to finish could stay this way on the first pitch. I free solo it or bring up a rope via right sided rock ramp to trees. Lots of secure foot holds on the rock. No pro for the first 40 ft. first time wasn't sure how easy. Climb is (5.2) zone. The dirt at the trees is okay to reach the rock to step off of onto the face (5.4) but belay first. Near top of face I ended here at a stopper crack and for rappel also 2 bolts. I came back and met Lee Hansche before I got started going up again from the step off. Lee's been somewhere up here before.
Today I went the rest of the way to the top. First on some dry moss before the forest left of the belay higher up. Not good. I bolted some good rock headwall left of where I went up (2 bolts). It'll be better but way harder to climb over on the left side of that wall. It has lichen left of the bolts and after the lichen and rock (5.6) there are oak trees for belay. It's tight foot space and decent enough. My accomplishment, I packed up and walked up to next wall (a boxed in section where the oak trees end). the next belay. I was packed ready for going home with my rock shoes on. I went up the middle and stayed that way until I backed off and proceeded fully loaded left into the steep. I climbed up the boxed in corner wall until I could move left and up on thin flakes crux (5.5) for 12ft. Then out under an awesome ceiling by a difficult access made onto grass for feet first and then a bush ledge. Up from here is the crack in the forest of lichen available to climb. That wonderful crack for me and walls covered in lichen were not a problem. I payed attention to how carefully I stepped out to get this 20ft. (5.3) crack event done. There are harder options to be had lower and up now. The first time I went leftward up so that I could head rightward up until I stepped over a six inch fissure cornered to a two ft. fissure. Cool and after that basically the climb was done 40ft? I headed left towards Clip-a-dee-doo-dah to go down. I'm psyched to do this climb without the drill. I will carry a small trad. rack. Including the dirt ramps this climb will go up 200ft. from where it starts. Central part of the boxed in corner goes nowhere. The climb still has committing run outs. There are climbers below this climb and the rock quality of the third pitch inside wall flakes start out weak flakey edged rock and gets stronger the higher up you go. These flakes are a little runout.
The big moss cover rock that divides the Alcove area from the Junco side. Climb up the broken rock area by a large diagonal crack meeting the forest ground is before the alcove. No pro and not hard when you don't think about how high up you are going. Then there is a very cool spot at some rocks to hang out and put your shoes on. Great location.
1 bolt at the belay after the first 40ft. pitch at the step off and a cam at your feet. 3 bolts including the belay bolt leads at 5.4 up slab face and ends at 2 bolts for rappel 50 feet up. Sharp edge of rock before the slab. I rappelled to below the step off rock 50ft. and then did another rappel 40ft. off of the higher part of a set of trees, that got me nearly to the ground. The next time I went up from the 2 bolt belay climbed back down and went left and up to a 2.5 cam placement in cracked rock. Up and right easy and then unprotected rock and dirty moss up to traverse back left to the oak trees for belay 40ft. This way has too much dirt that's spooky steps. I put in 2 bolts on clean rock by rappel. The grade of climbing unknown until I climbed it in October. The moves are balancing and the crux is immediate and goes on beyond the second bolt at 5.6 or 7. Committing balancing maneuvers to reach the exit above second bolt. The climbs ascends slightly to the left of the bolts and not in alignment with them. The pendulum shouldn't be a big deal if falling. Falling going up through the leaves at the exit a climber would hit the lower deck hard. I went to the highest oak trees ahead. I was belayed by Brian Winslow. Brain led the last pitch. Thee are four anchors on the last pitch. One of them a bolt below the exit from the ceiling is comforting. The other three enable a climber to choose four different exit strategies near the top. Brian chose a higher up the crack exit, like the one I did the first time. There is no belay immediately at the top of the cliff. That's because of the great fire. It's not that necessary there are trees higher up in land. Technical climbing is done at the last anchor, a ring piton that Brian didn't see. He went up and left towards Jimmy Cliff's top and veered in land before it to some trees for belay. There's a nice boulder problem below these trees not climbed yet.
2-3.5 Friends, Tri-cams would work best in the cracks and smallest TCU's, a few smaller stoppers, four tree slings.
This climb can be done on fixed anchors only in summer with some long run outs and some tree slings and a maximum of 7 quick draws and plenty of gumption. I'd do it with this light rack mostly because I know the climb.