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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White 2010 and again with Brian Winslow
Page Views: 1,687 total, 19/month
Shared By: bradley white on Sep 16, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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The first pitch goes up diagonally to the beginning of the broken rock area. this first section isn't bolted and there isn't gear but the climbing isn't bad. Maybe the start to finish could stay this way on the first pitch. I free solo it or bring up a rope via right sided rock ramp to trees. Lots of secure foot holds on the rock. No pro for the first 40 ft. first time wasn't sure how easy. Climb is (5.2) zone. The dirt at the trees is okay to reach the rock to step off of onto the face (5.4) but belay first. Near top of face I ended here at a stopper crack and for rappel also 2 bolts. I came back and met Lee Hansche before I got started going up again from the step off. Lee's been somewhere up here before.
Today I went the rest of the way to the top. First on some dry moss before the forest left of the belay higher up. Not good. I bolted some good rock headwall left of where I went up (2 bolts). It'll be better but way harder to climb over on the left side of that wall. It has lichen left of the bolts and after the lichen and rock (5.6) there are oak trees for belay. It's tight foot space and decent enough. My accomplishment, I packed up and walked up to next wall (a boxed in section where the oak trees end). the next belay. I was packed ready for going home with my rock shoes on. I went up the middle and stayed that way until I backed off and proceeded fully loaded left into the steep. I climbed up the boxed in corner wall until I could move left and up on thin flakes crux (5.5) for 12ft. Then out under an awesome ceiling by a difficult access made onto grass for feet first and then a bush ledge. Up from here is the crack in the forest of lichen available to climb. That wonderful crack for me and walls covered in lichen were not a problem. I payed attention to how carefully I stepped out to get this 20ft. (5.3) crack event done. There are harder options to be had lower and up now. The first time I went leftward up so that I could head rightward up until I stepped over a six inch fissure cornered to a two ft. fissure. Cool and after that basically the climb was done 40ft? I headed left towards Clip-a-dee-doo-dah to go down. I'm psyched to do this climb without the drill. I will carry a small trad. rack. Including the dirt ramps this climb will go up 200ft. from where it starts. Central part of the boxed in corner goes nowhere. The climb still has committing run outs. There are climbers below this climb and the rock quality of the third pitch inside wall flakes start out weak flakey edged rock and gets stronger the higher up you go. These flakes are a little runout.


The big moss cover rock that divides the Alcove area from the Junco side. Climb up the broken rock area by a large diagonal crack meeting the forest ground is before the alcove. No pro and not hard when you don't think about how high up you are going. Then there is a very cool spot at some rocks to hang out and put your shoes on. Great location.


1 bolt at the belay after the first 40ft. pitch at the step off and a cam at your feet. 3 bolts including the belay bolt leads at 5.4 up slab face and ends at 2 bolts for rappel 50 feet up. Sharp edge of rock before the slab. I rappelled to below the step off rock 50ft. and then did another rappel 40ft. off of the higher part of a set of trees, that got me nearly to the ground. The next time I went up from the 2 bolt belay climbed back down and went left and up to a 2.5 cam placement in cracked rock. Up and right easy and then unprotected rock and dirty moss up to traverse back left to the oak trees for belay 40ft. This way has too much dirt that's spooky steps. I put in 2 bolts on clean rock by rappel. The grade of climbing unknown until I climbed it in October. The moves are balancing and the crux is immediate and goes on beyond the second bolt at 5.6 or 7. Committing balancing maneuvers to reach the exit above second bolt. The climbs ascends slightly to the left of the bolts and not in alignment with them. The pendulum shouldn't be a big deal if falling. Falling going up through the leaves at the exit a climber would hit the lower deck hard. I went to the highest oak trees ahead. I was belayed by Brian Winslow. Brain led the last pitch. Thee are four anchors on the last pitch. One of them a bolt below the exit from the ceiling is comforting. The other three enable a climber to choose four different exit strategies near the top. Brian chose a higher up the crack exit, like the one I did the first time. There is no belay immediately at the top of the cliff. That's because of the great fire. It's not that necessary there are trees higher up in land. Technical climbing is done at the last anchor, a ring piton that Brian didn't see. He went up and left towards Jimmy Cliff's top and veered in land before it to some trees for belay. There's a nice boulder problem below these trees not climbed yet.
2-3.5 Friends, Tri-cams would work best in the cracks and smallest TCU's, a few smaller stoppers, four tree slings.
This climb can be done on fixed anchors only in summer with some long run outs and some tree slings and a maximum of 7 quick draws and plenty of gumption. I'd do it with this light rack mostly because I know the climb.
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
"The requested list for M Sprague and company has begun. Below the summit start on 'Makamah Road', then get down to 'Freedonia', 'Hannah', 'Bubble Bee', climb the finish up the ridge on the 'Lone Ranger'. Go down west and do 'Paper Wafer' and 'B.B. Buttress', cross over east to the 'Dike Route', 'Fixing a Hole', 'Senior Citizen', 'Bad Sneakers', 'Beat the Heat', 'Cracker Cracks', 'Jimmy Crack Corn', 'When Pigs Fly', and 'Stool Pigeon'. Head down hill to do 'Darth Vader', On trail go across to the Venus wall area going west until the big red spot is painted on the rock. Do 'Edge', 'Scorched', 'Schist a side' the 'Dirtiest Climb' and 'Singed' in this area. Go down to 'Brendan's Bitches', 'Juicy Fingers', 'Metamorphosis' (beginning on 'Slack' and moving up right) finishing up the 'Big Easy' to the same belay ledge, finish up second pitch. From the top of the first pitch of 'Slack' go left instead of up and right. Do 'Barber Shop Duet'. Do 'Iron Man' original start to nowhere. Climb 'Know Ethics' and 'Rock De Jour' to somewhere?, 'Orange Crush' to 'Chinese Water Torture' and also the Orange Crush's finish pitch. Do 'Orange Sunshine' and do 'Orange Sunshine' right side Arete corner finish, 'Son of Sammy', 'Short Wave', 'Black Dog Crack', 'Sam Spade', 'Schist Another Crack'. Okay, now go and do 'Bolt Line' to the trees. From there do 'They Come and They Go' and eventually I'll free 'An Elephant Never Forgets'.
Entirely free climbed recorded climbs. The climbs listed don't necessarily go as mine first. They are listed as someone else did that one first. The way some went up then isn't the way up as the bolted route is now. Many of the climbs I did once and not again. Of those some are climbed again and again now. Most aren't retro bolted.
Once I picture a climb I want to go do it. I am thankful to the great spirit that I have gone this far without much injury. My successes at climbing FFA is high and were higher angled once upon a time. I look for steep with foot ledges for most of my successes nowadays.
So the angle has changed most of the time I climb. Rattlesnake this past year I was successful. I found some steep stuff I could get up. It is my 30 year anniversary of climbing at the Snake. I've been around and get screwed up on knowing what the land use rules are. I've never meant to trouble anyone. I use removable bolts. There's been plenty of trouble here before about people climbing on it and getting hurt also. For posterity's sake I added some more climbs this past year. Most of the climbs are walk offs and aren't so hot. A few are good."

Comment by bradley white on October 16th, 2010 7:19 pm Jul 20, 2012
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
"I free soloed it and came back the same week to rappel anchor it because I am a Jim-Cracker. Did the climb with Brian Winslow Oct. 5th and the middle section short headwall went at (5.6-7?). Finally put a smallest TCU in the first pitch crack. The crack will take stoppers but there are some pebbles in the way that need to be chiseled out first. The climb this time of the year has some seepage in the middle section of it. So, I moved the belay further left from the original belay to a dry place."

Comment by bradley white on September 24th, 2010 12:43 pm Jul 20, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Hmmm, looks like a lot of work, but it might be doable. I think you would need to start early with a headlamp on a nice long summer day. Looks like a fun goal if you like mileage.

Thanks for the list, Bradley Oct 17, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Ha ha ha, Bradley. It is no different from running a marathon. Sometimes it is nice to go slow and enjoy the discovery. Sometimes it is nice to push yourself and enjoy that feeling. It might be a fun challenge, taking you all over the mountain.

Allen is into that stuff, doing 3 laps on Cannon in 23 seconds or what ever he does now. Sep 17, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I think Allen Cattabriga would have the best chance. Sep 16, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Man, Ward is going to have his work cut out for him checking out all the new routes for the next guidebook. He might find some new species in the process. : )

Here is a challenge for somebody: Do every Bradley White route at Rumney in a day (only the ones lead free). That might beat Justin Hayes's doing a 5.12 at every crag. You have to survive for it to count.

Want to make a list for us, Bradley? Sep 16, 2010