Avg: 0.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bradley White 2010 and again with Brian Winslow|
|Page Views:||2,052 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||bradley white on Sep 16, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Today I went the rest of the way to the top. First on some dry moss before the forest left of the belay higher up. Not good. I bolted some good rock headwall left of where I went up (2 bolts). It'll be better but way harder to climb over on the left side of that wall. It has lichen left of the bolts and after the lichen and rock (5.6) there are oak trees for belay. It's tight foot space and decent enough. My accomplishment, I packed up and walked up to next wall (a boxed in section where the oak trees end). the next belay. I was packed ready for going home with my rock shoes on. I went up the middle and stayed that way until I backed off and proceeded fully loaded left into the steep. I climbed up the boxed in corner wall until I could move left and up on thin flakes crux (5.5) for 12ft. Then out under an awesome ceiling by a difficult access made onto grass for feet first and then a bush ledge. Up from here is the crack in the forest of lichen available to climb. That wonderful crack for me and walls covered in lichen were not a problem. I payed attention to how carefully I stepped out to get this 20ft. (5.3) crack event done. There are harder options to be had lower and up now. The first time I went leftward up so that I could head rightward up until I stepped over a six inch fissure cornered to a two ft. fissure. Cool and after that basically the climb was done 40ft? I headed left towards Clip-a-dee-doo-dah to go down. I'm psyched to do this climb without the drill. I will carry a small trad. rack. Including the dirt ramps this climb will go up 200ft. from where it starts. Central part of the boxed in corner goes nowhere. The climb still has committing run outs. There are climbers below this climb and the rock quality of the third pitch inside wall flakes start out weak flakey edged rock and gets stronger the higher up you go. These flakes are a little runout.
2-3.5 Friends, Tri-cams would work best in the cracks and smallest TCU's, a few smaller stoppers, four tree slings.
This climb can be done on fixed anchors only in summer with some long run outs and some tree slings and a maximum of 7 quick draws and plenty of gumption. I'd do it with this light rack mostly because I know the climb.