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Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport
FA: D. Quinn
Page Views: 3,169 total, 25/month
Shared By: James Otey on Jul 1, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The Beginning of All Things climbs the arete on the steep section of Jimmy Cliff left. It traverses up and right, past the anchor of Things As They Are Now and ends to the right at the chains of Things As They Are.

Many people consider this route to be quite contrived- and it is. Though not the most logical or eye pleasing line on Jimmy Cliff left, The Beginning of All Things makes for a great warm up for some of the crags harder offerings. For 5.10a it can seem quite pumpy, though there is a great rest soon before the chains of things as they are now. Right after this rest comes the crux- the feet get a little thin though precise footwork should pull you through it just fine.

It is worthwhile to note that The Beginning of All Things is also useful for hanging draws on Things as they are now (5.12a).

Is this the most wonderful 5.10 at Rumney? Absolutely not.
But it it worth your time?
Definitely.

Location

Starts on the far left side of the steep wall on Jimmy Cliff left.

Protection

7 bolts to chains of Things As They Are.
J Meagher
  5.10a
J Meagher  
  5.10a
Nick, the holds over the top of the arête are on, basically just don't top out early and you'll be on route Feb 27, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
How much of the top of the arete (as you move from left to right) is on-route? It wasn't clear to me if it was kosher to use the big holds along the edge of the top of the face, or if you were supposed to stay below the top and exclusively use holds on the wall itself. Feb 25, 2014
J Meagher
  5.10a
J Meagher  
  5.10a
Even though this route is pretty short, for some reason i just really like this climb. Its a nice route for beginner 5.10 leaders, because the bolts are close and the falls are nice. Also my first 10 on lead. Good holds and surprisingly pumpy, a nice change from most short 10's at rumney. Jul 22, 2013
Ben Dubs  
 
right anchor is very wobbly Apr 22, 2013
S. Neoh  
I, as many others, stay on the steep face until the anchors for TATAN.
See the pics of how Lily climbed it.

P.S. Hey, Matt - I hope you will visit Bonsai. You will love the 4x 5.10 and one 5.9 there. Go for the flash/onsight on Peer Pressure and Centerpiece. Both are way better than Mr. Coffee to put it mildly.
And then head over to Waimea (the climb) and Tropicana, P1. Go with quality, man. Apr 21, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
I'm not really sure about this route... I haven't climbed it for a while but I remember topping around around the 3rd bolt and going up the slab to the anchors. I assume the proper climb does not top out until the chains? Apr 21, 2012
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
not sure... ive never gone to the other anchors.. but i would think it wouldnt be harder... just not as fun haha... Jul 10, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
Yeah thts what I did when I sent it I just wanted to mke sure I did it right... Do you think it is harder going to the anchors of Things as they Are? Jul 10, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i think it comes down to personal preference. i like going to things as they are now anchors just cuz i think it flows a little better but if you want to keep it going cuz your having so much fun then by all means lol :) although i dont think you will want to cuz this is a very pumpy route and i have a feeling you will get to the first anchors and be like "nope im just gonna clip these :) " haha Jul 9, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
So.. the description says we climb to the Things as they Are anchors but you two say you climb to Things as they are Now anchors which is correct? Jul 9, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
you can also continue to the anchor of "Things as They Are" if you would like to make the route longer... however i dont like the route and the shorter it is the better :) Jul 9, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
hello Jcomeau, :) the anchors for this are the same for the line just to the right of this one (things as they are now 5.12a) :) if you look at the photos of jimmy cliff there is one with a route map on it to help ya out a little bit :) have fun! Jul 9, 2009
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Where are the top anchors for this one? The line next to it or the one to the right of that? Jul 7, 2009
epoch
Maine
 
epoch   Maine
 
I broke off a head-sized flake just right of the Things as They Are Now anchors on June 29, 2009; though it shouldn't affect the nature of the route. Jun 30, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
i broke a foot off a few moves into this route if it makes it harder i don't know but i thought people should know. Nov 29, 2008