Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Jimmy Cliff

Alcove Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginning of All Things, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clip a Dee Doo Dah S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cracker Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Curl Up and Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Drilling for Dollars S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easter Squall S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hammond Organ S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hypocrisy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jimmy Crack Corn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Junco S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lady and the Tramp S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lonesome Dove S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Love Nest T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuthatch, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Piece of Cake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pine Tree Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Scare Crow T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Searchers, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Standard Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Stool Pigeon T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Teacher’s Pet S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Things As They Are Now S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Things I Never Learned S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Things as They Are S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
To Love, Honor and Belay S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
When Pigs Fly T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: My daughter Zoe and Bradley White
Page Views: 1,365 total, 15/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 21, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is an old style climb in an old style area across from Jimmy Cliff. The moves up are similar to the climbs on the right side of the main cliff. The climbing is a little bit dirty. This climb offers ramps and some wonderful rock protrusions. Plenty of exposure on it. High up moves to start with are high up. A wonderful view after the climb.
A difficulty increase variation to this climb awaits on the same fixed protection a left sided climb on the first three bolts. This variation is on clean black rock and run out distance. The ceiling ahead below the upper slab can also be pulled on up the left side for added difficulty. I would call the whole variation 'Pigs On The Wing'.
We really enjoyed our climb. Finally my daughter got to be in on one of my first ascents in a new area. The crux is getting past the second bolt and the ceiling below the upper slab. The upper slab can be skipped by a nice alternative finish. Go right before slab and pass a pine tree at (5.5) to join up later the regular finish.

Location

Opposite broken rock wall besides the gully right of 'Lonesome Dove'. We belayed off of a large oak tree below the vegetated tree covered rock ramp, thanks mat. Walk off right after solo climbing up a short summit wall. A lot of dead trees because the summit area was burned very much by the million dollar fire.

Protection

5 bolts and 2 pins rappel bolted. First bolt requires awkward face climbing up too a foot ledge long reach clip. After way up on the vegetation ramp. Long run out from third bolt to the slab (crux) bolt. Getting to clip this bolt also requires awkward balancing moves. It'll require four more bolts to remove these risks. A 1.5-cam fits before the pin (it came out on second ascent and I missed the pin ) a 4 cam fits between 3rd and 4th bolt. Then it is a safer, better protected ascent but still risky. The top 20ft. ramp (5.0) has no protection and before it is a army surplus ring piton 15ft above the last bolt that is not deeply set.

0 Comments