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Center Section 2 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Holderness Corner 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
No Money Down (Left) 1 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Elevation: 609 ft
GPS: 43.802, -71.835 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 67,306 total · 502/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall


Where ever you are at The Meadows you will find shade from the hot summer sun and an incredibly short approach making this one of the most crowded spots at rumney...There are a few classics here that make it worth braving the hoards of people that can often be found here, Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b) is a must do if you climb at that level...or for the beginners there is always, Beginner Route (5.5) an awesome first trad lead. No Money Down (5.10c), Lies and Propaganda(5.9), Bolt Line(5.8), and Holderness School Corner (5.8) are a few others worthy of the title "Classic"...

If you find your self climbing here try to be as low impact as you can...Pick up trash if you see it, be respectful of plant life by staying on marked trail, and as usual please don't top rope off the quick clips...They wear out quickly in this high traffic area...Oh, and leash your dogs, please...

The meadows is best split in to a few distinct areas to make things easy to find...they are described below...

No Money Down- many moderate routes that see lots of traffic such as Truth In Advertising(5.7+), Easy Terms (5.8) and the steep "gunks like" No Money Down (5.10c)... sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12a...

Center Section- Lies And Propaganda (5.9) and Bolt Line (5.8) see the crowds but there is a nice 5.10c (Cold Turkey) and a great 5.5 trad route (Beginners Route)... Rhino Bucket (5.10) is also recommended...

Holderness Corner- named for two of the routes in this section Holderness School Corner (5.8 trad) and Holderness Arete (5.10b)... Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b) is one of the super classic 5.12s at rumney...
Note: New route moratorium area Details

Getting There

This is such an easy place to find you might trip over it as you get out of the car. one minute can get most people up the left most trail (if you are facing away from the road in the main lot) and up to Flesh For Lulu (5.12) a beautiful steep 80ft wall that will be right in front of you as you come up the trail... This is the holderness corner area... Head left and step up between large boulders to see the beginners route (5.5) a nice left facing crack corner... Further left, down a dip and over boulders will bring you to the No Money Down area...

You can get to no money down directly by walking west down the road a short distance and picking up a short trail...You can see no money down (5.10) from the road through the trees...

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Meadows

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mom's Pancake
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Beginner's Route
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bolt Line
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holderness School Corner
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lies and Propaganda
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hippos on Parade
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhino Bucket
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holderness Arete
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Money Down
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Turkey
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Student Loan
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Rhino
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Flesh For Lulu
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hope For Movement
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mom's Pancake Center Section 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Beginner's Route Center Section 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Bolt Line Center Section 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Holderness School Corner Holderness Corner 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lies and Propaganda Center Section 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hippos on Parade Center Section 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rhino Bucket Center Section 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Holderness Arete Holderness Corner 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Misdemeanor Center Section 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
No Money Down No Money Down (Left) 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cold Turkey Center Section 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Student Loan No Money Down (Left) 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
White Rhino Holderness Corner 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Flesh For Lulu Holderness Corner 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Hope For Movement Holderness Corner 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
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twellman   Cambridge
Haha I just noticed that the quick clip in the picture is only rated at 11 kN. I guess the number decreases as the clip gets worn. Fixe has some pretty impressive technology these days! Sep 5, 2012
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
On the same note... even if you're leading, but you know your buddy is going to lead the route after you, lower off your own draws. Believe it or not, I've actually seen people do otherwise. Jun 14, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Well, if you TR something off the Quick clips, that means you will be lowering from them as many times as you climb the route.... If you TR on your draws then lower to clean the draws, you only lower from the quickies once, there for there is less wear on them....

I don't think anyone is under the impression that the climbing is what is causing the wear but rather the repeated lowering.... Jun 5, 2007
Josh Janes    
So how exactly does toproping wear out anchors but not lowering?

I can guarantee that the majority of wear on anchors is from lowering, not toproping. When you top rope, only the weight of the rope is moving over the anchors as the climber climbs. If the climber hangs, the rope will not be moving much at all. Lowering, however, puts all of the climber's weight on the anchor while the rope is sawing across the anchor -- this is far more damaging.

I'm not advocating people TR through fixed gear (if you got the rope up there there's no reason you can't clip a pair of draws into the anchor). But it's silly to pretend it is anything but repeated lowering that does that sort of damage to an anchor. Jun 4, 2007
Lowering off anchors produces wear, there is no distpute there. I don't rap off anchors unless it is multi-pitch, or the area has strict ethics. Rumney is not an area with super strict ethics and ultimately it has no problems with replcement of gear and making yet another hole in the rock. Rappeling off fixed pro is a much longer setup and can be dangerous for beginners to attempt, and therefore I don't think Rappeling off anchors should become the standard of practice.

At least biners are cheaper to replace and (hopefully) if a biner was too worn down the person who climbed the climb would sacrifice one of their biners and change out the bad one on the chains.

Jay, If you want to continue this discussion, perhaps we should take it to the forums. May 17, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I agree about not TRing off fixed anchors. Biners seem even worse. On climbs with fixed biners on the chains, it's rare to see a biner that is not at least somewhat worn through.

I have heard people, however, saying that you must rap off fixed anchors because the simple motion of lowering wears the anchors. While this may be true, I think that rapping off quick-clips might be a bit much. May 17, 2007
The picture is someone else's. However, I think it is important to show people these sorts of pictures to raise awareness on gear (especially fixed gear) abuse.
That picture shows how many of the Quickclips in the New River Gorge look. There are just too many anchors to replace them before people Toproping there wear them out, especially on the classics at Bridge Buttress, and Junkyard.
I politely educate everyone I see Toproping off fixed pro to not do so, be it Rumney or the NRG. Once I even gave some folks two quick draws in the NRG so they would stop TRing directly off the anchors.
I posted this photo because I see people using the Quickclips at Rumney way to frequently for TRing. There is nowhere near the number of routes at Rumney that there is in the NRG. Therefore, the fixed gear can be replaced somewhat frequently but that is no reason to abuse the gear. May 17, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Wow, great (and disturbing) photo. Where did those anchors come from? May 17, 2007

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