Elevation: 609 ft
GPS: 43.802, -71.835 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 112,503 total · 685/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Where ever you are at The Meadows you will find shade from the hot summer sun and an incredibly short approach making this one of the most crowded spots at rumney...There are a few classics here that make it worth braving the hoards of people that can often be found here, Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b) is a must do if you climb at that level...or for the beginners there is always, Beginner Route (5.5) an awesome first trad lead. No Money Down (5.10c), Lies and Propaganda(5.9), Bolt Line(5.8), and Holderness School Corner (5.8) are a few others worthy of the title "Classic"...

If you find your self climbing here try to be as low impact as you can...Pick up trash if you see it, be respectful of plant life by staying on marked trail, and as usual please don't top rope off the quick clips...They wear out quickly in this high traffic area...Oh, and leash your dogs, please...

The meadows is best split in to a few distinct areas to make things easy to find...they are described below...

No Money Down- many moderate routes that see lots of traffic such as Truth In Advertising(5.7+), Easy Terms (5.8) and the steep "gunks like" No Money Down (5.10c)... sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12a...

Center Section- Lies And Propaganda (5.9) and Bolt Line (5.8) see the crowds but there is a nice 5.10c (Cold Turkey) and a great 5.5 trad route (Beginners Route)... Rhino Bucket (5.10) is also recommended...

Holderness Corner- named for two of the routes in this section Holderness School Corner (5.8 trad) and Holderness Arete (5.10b)... Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b) is one of the super classic 5.12s at rumney...

Getting There

This is such an easy place to find you might trip over it as you get out of the car. one minute can get most people up the left most trail (if you are facing away from the road in the main lot) and up to Flesh For Lulu (5.12) a beautiful steep 80ft wall that will be right in front of you as you come up the trail... This is the holderness corner area... Head left and step up between large boulders to see the beginners route (5.5) a nice left facing crack corner... Further left, down a dip and over boulders will bring you to the No Money Down area...

You can get to no money down directly by walking west down the road a short distance and picking up a short trail...You can see no money down (5.10) from the road through the trees...

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Meadows

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 87
Beginner's Route
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 160
Mom's Pancake
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 309
Bolt Line
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 101
Holderness School Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 293
Lies and Propaganda
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 315
Hippos on Parade
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 133
Thou Shalt Not Covet
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 156
Rhino Bucket
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 189
Holderness Arete
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 181
Misdemeanor
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 82
Med Dose Madness
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 247
No Money Down
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 97
Cold Turkey
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 96
Student Loan
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 183
Flesh For Lulu
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beginner's Route Center Section
 87
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Mom's Pancake Center Section
 160
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Bolt Line Center Section
 309
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Holderness School Corner Holderness Corner
 101
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lies and Propaganda Center Section
 293
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hippos on Parade Center Section
 315
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Thou Shalt Not Covet No Money Down (Left)
 133
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rhino Bucket Center Section
 156
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Holderness Arete Holderness Corner
 189
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Misdemeanor Center Section
 181
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Med Dose Madness Center Section
 82
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
No Money Down No Money Down (Left)
 247
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cold Turkey Center Section
 97
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Student Loan No Money Down (Left)
 96
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Flesh For Lulu Holderness Corner
 183
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
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