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Elevation: 609 ft 186 m
GPS: 43.80185, -71.83506
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 171,117 total · 785/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Page Updates (admin only)
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Where ever you are at The Meadows you will find shade from the hot summer sun and an incredibly short approach making this one of the most crowded spots at rumney...There are a few classics here that make it worth braving the hoards of people that can often be found here, Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b) is a must do if you climb at that level...or for the beginners there is always, Beginner Route (5.5) an awesome first trad lead. No Money Down (5.10c), Lies and Propaganda(5.9), Bolt Line(5.8), and Holderness School Corner (5.8) are a few others worthy of the title "Classic"...

If you find your self climbing here try to be as low impact as you can...Pick up trash if you see it, be respectful of plant life by staying on marked trail, and as usual please don't top rope off the quick clips...They wear out quickly in this high traffic area...Oh, and leash your dogs, please...

The meadows is best split in to a few distinct areas to make things easy to find...they are described below...

No Money Down- many moderate routes that see lots of traffic such as Truth In Advertising(5.7+), Easy Terms (5.8) and the steep "gunks like" No Money Down (5.10c)... sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12a...

Center Section- Lies And Propaganda (5.9) and Bolt Line (5.8) see the crowds but there is a nice 5.10c (Cold Turkey) and a great 5.5 trad route (Beginners Route)... Rhino Bucket (5.10) is also recommended...

Holderness Corner- named for two of the routes in this section Holderness School Corner (5.8 trad) and Holderness Arete (5.10b)... Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b) is one of the super classic 5.12s at rumney...

Getting There Suggest change

This is such an easy place to find you might trip over it as you get out of the car. one minute can get most people up the left most trail (if you are facing away from the road in the main lot) and up to Flesh For Lulu (5.12) a beautiful steep 80ft wall that will be right in front of you as you come up the trail... This is the holderness corner area... Head left and step up between large boulders to see the beginners route (5.5) a nice left facing crack corner... Further left, down a dip and over boulders will bring you to the No Money Down area...

You can get to no money down directly by walking west down the road a short distance and picking up a short trail...You can see no money down (5.10) from the road through the trees...

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Meadows

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 139
● Beginner's Route
Trad
Center Section
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 235
● Mom's Pancake
Sport
Center Section
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 330
● False Modesty
Sport
No Money Down (Left)
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 245
● Easy Terms
Sport
No Money Down (Left)
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 453
● Bolt Line
Sport
Center Section
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 142
● Holderness School Corner
Trad
Holderness Corner
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 418
● Lies and Propaganda
Sport
Center Section
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 457
● Hippos on Parade
Sport
Center Section
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 236
● Rhino Bucket
Sport
Center Section
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 273
● Holderness Arete
Sport
Holderness Corner
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 342
● Misdemeanor
Sport
Center Section
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 366
● No Money Down
Sport
No Money Down (Left)
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 141
● Cold Turkey
Sport
Center Section
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 284
● Flesh For Lulu
Sport
Holderness Corner
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 52
● Hope For Movement
Sport
Holderness Corner
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Beginner's Route Center Section
 139
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● Mom's Pancake Center Section
 235
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
● False Modesty No Money Down (Left)
 330
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Easy Terms No Money Down (Left)
 245
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Bolt Line Center Section
 453
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Holderness School Corner Holderness Corner
 142
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Lies and Propaganda Center Section
 418
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Hippos on Parade Center Section
 457
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Rhino Bucket Center Section
 236
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Holderness Arete Holderness Corner
 273
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Misdemeanor Center Section
 342
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● No Money Down No Money Down (Left)
 366
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Cold Turkey Center Section
 141
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Flesh For Lulu Holderness Corner
 284
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Hope For Movement Holderness Corner
 52
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Meadows »

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Photos

There are so many routes here the map had to be small but this should get you by...
There are so many routes here the map had to be…
 2
Alex on Repossession on the left end of the meadows...
Alex on Repossession on the left end of the mea…
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