Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 609 ft 186 m
GPS: 43.80185, -71.83506
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 170,909 total · 805/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Where ever you are at The Meadows you will find shade from the hot summer sun and an incredibly short approach making this one of the most crowded spots at rumney...There are a few classics here that make it worth braving the hoards of people that can often be found here, Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b) is a must do if you climb at that level...or for the beginners there is always, Beginner Route (5.5) an awesome first trad lead. No Money Down (5.10c), Lies and Propaganda(5.9), Bolt Line(5.8), and Holderness School Corner (5.8) are a few others worthy of the title "Classic"...

If you find your self climbing here try to be as low impact as you can...Pick up trash if you see it, be respectful of plant life by staying on marked trail, and as usual please don't top rope off the quick clips...They wear out quickly in this high traffic area...Oh, and leash your dogs, please...

The meadows is best split in to a few distinct areas to make things easy to find...they are described below...

No Money Down- many moderate routes that see lots of traffic such as Truth In Advertising(5.7+), Easy Terms (5.8) and the steep "gunks like" No Money Down (5.10c)... sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12a...

Center Section- Lies And Propaganda (5.9) and Bolt Line (5.8) see the crowds but there is a nice 5.10c (Cold Turkey) and a great 5.5 trad route (Beginners Route)... Rhino Bucket (5.10) is also recommended...

Holderness Corner- named for two of the routes in this section Holderness School Corner (5.8 trad) and Holderness Arete (5.10b)... Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b) is one of the super classic 5.12s at rumney...

Getting There Suggest change

This is such an easy place to find you might trip over it as you get out of the car. one minute can get most people up the left most trail (if you are facing away from the road in the main lot) and up to Flesh For Lulu (5.12) a beautiful steep 80ft wall that will be right in front of you as you come up the trail... This is the holderness corner area... Head left and step up between large boulders to see the beginners route (5.5) a nice left facing crack corner... Further left, down a dip and over boulders will bring you to the No Money Down area...

You can get to no money down directly by walking west down the road a short distance and picking up a short trail...You can see no money down (5.10) from the road through the trees...

30 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Meadows Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Meadows

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 133
Beginner's Route
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 226
Mom's Pancake
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 310
False Modesty
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 436
Bolt Line
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 137
Holderness School Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 409
Lies and Propaganda
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 442
Hippos on Parade
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 202
Thou Shalt Not Covet
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 222
Rhino Bucket
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 264
Holderness Arete
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 324
Misdemeanor
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 355
No Money Down
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 139
Cold Turkey
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 273
Flesh For Lulu
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 43
Hope For Movement
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beginner's Route Center Section
 133
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Mom's Pancake Center Section
 226
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
False Modesty No Money Down (Left)
 310
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Bolt Line Center Section
 436
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Holderness School Corner Holderness Corner
 137
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lies and Propaganda Center Section
 409
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hippos on Parade Center Section
 442
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Thou Shalt Not Covet No Money Down (Left)
 202
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rhino Bucket Center Section
 222
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Holderness Arete Holderness Corner
 264
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Misdemeanor Center Section
 324
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
No Money Down No Money Down (Left)
 355
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cold Turkey Center Section
 139
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Flesh For Lulu Holderness Corner
 273
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Hope For Movement Holderness Corner
 43
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Meadows »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading