Type: Sport
FA: Tom Armstrong 3/88
Page Views: 3,407 total · 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 17, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Climb both sides of the arete which is quite techy and challenging... The crux comes at mid height and can be done a few ways with slight variation in the grade... A good convenient warm up for the harder stuff to the left...

I have seen less experienced climbers get stumped at the crux numerous times do to the technical nature of the climbing... So if 5.10 is your limit just be ready to climb with your head...

Location

The arete to the right of Holderness School Corner (5.8)...

Protection

6 bolts to Quick Clips

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
I climbed this route entirely on the slab side today (mostly to the right of the bolts). Pretty nice and casual. Maybe one 10a move at the crux. Easier than staying mostly on the arete. Jun 4, 2011
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
I hardly used the left side of the arete, save for reaching around for the occasional hold. I also felt the first bolt was unnecessarily high. I would recommend an additional bolt maybe 8 feet below the first. Apr 14, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
 
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
 
Haven't climbed this yet, but the guide book recommends a cam to cover the start of the route. Jun 12, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
The only move with any difficulty below the first bolt is the very first move off the ground. It is low enough that even a bolt would probably not keep you off the ground, a good spot from the belayer would do just as good! Jun 12, 2012
LOVE THIS CLIMB! I lead it last weekend, there seems to be a new bolt low down on the climb. The crux is so fun and there is a great hold setup. I am about 5 8 and a small horn nab me in the "boys" on the crux. So...you have been warned! Aug 8, 2012
slk
Reno, NV
slk   Reno, NV
Did Tom Armstrong approve it?

Skip the new bolt... seriously... better yet, chop it... Aug 20, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
The route was done 24 years ago and NOW it needs another bolt ??? Shameful Aug 20, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
If there is in fact a new bolt here, it is just a matter of time before someone removes it. I really hope nobody added a bolt... Aug 21, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I don't know anything about the bolt, but enough with the unilateral chopping threats by people who aren't even the FA party. If there is an issue, than it should be brought up with the RCA so things are handled properly and bolt wars don't ensue.

By the way, a number of people have been hurt on the bottem of that route, so it is not completely irrational for somebody to think it needs one, though I don't. Aug 21, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
I am with Mark on this one, much better to work with RCA on this one if anyone feels strongly about the allegedly added bolt. When I last checked, TomA is on the RCA board so it even makes more sense.
I remember the very first time I got on this route I brought a cam along to protect the start. Aug 21, 2012
Allegedly? When I added the note it was so new that all the dust was still around it and it got all over us. I do not recall, however, if it is an additional bolt or simply a replacement. In my photos, I only have the upper part of the climb. The start of this climb is indeed sketchy, so if it were additionally placed, it makes sense. That whole area is already marred with bolts, seems hardly worth the stress to mar it with chopped nubs. Sep 2, 2012
Ryan Malloy
Raleigh, NC
  5.10a
Ryan Malloy   Raleigh, NC
  5.10a
I was surprised to find that the description mentions climbing on both sides of the arete. I stayed on the right side. Never saw an opportunity or a reason to move to the left side. Apr 19, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Cryptic, you grab the corner of the arete with your left hand, and —that's the extent of it. It's like Ten of Spades up at the New Wave. Aug 15, 2015
Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
Except for one move at the crux, this seems easy for the grade, but still fun. May 31, 2016
I could have sworn I saw a second, shorter pitch from the anchors. Jun 11, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10b
That would be Holderness Finish 5.10 :) Jun 13, 2016
Etha Williams
Somerville, MA
 
Etha Williams   Somerville, MA
 
Great climb! If you like thoughtful slab, you will have fun on this.

When my partner TR'd the climb, a chunk of rock (about 5x3x1 in) fell off of the route. It fell from above the crux (I think just above the 6th bolt), and I don't think it made the route any harder, but it certainly came as a bit of a surprise! Aug 5, 2018