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Routes in Holderness Corner

Flesh For Lulu S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Holderness Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holderness Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holderness School Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hope For Movement S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
White Rhino S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Tom Armstrong 3/88
Page Views: 2,920 total · 22/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 17, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Climb both sides of the arete which is quite techy and challenging... The crux comes at mid height and can be done a few ways with slight variation in the grade... A good convenient warm up for the harder stuff to the left...

I have seen less experienced climbers get stumped at the crux numerous times do to the technical nature of the climbing... So if 5.10 is your limit just be ready to climb with your head...

Location

The arete to the right of Holderness School Corner (5.8)...

Protection

6 bolts to Quick Clips

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
That would be Holderness Finish 5.10 :) Jun 13, 2016
I could have sworn I saw a second, shorter pitch from the anchors. Jun 11, 2016
Sergey Shevelev
San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
Sergey Shevelev   San Francisco, CA
  5.10a
Except for one move at the crux, this seems easy for the grade, but still fun. May 31, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Cryptic, you grab the corner of the arete with your left hand, and —that's the extent of it. It's like Ten of Spades up at the New Wave. Aug 15, 2015
Ryan Malloy
Worcester, MA
  5.10a
Ryan Malloy   Worcester, MA
  5.10a
I was surprised to find that the description mentions climbing on both sides of the arete. I stayed on the right side. Never saw an opportunity or a reason to move to the left side. Apr 19, 2015
Allegedly? When I added the note it was so new that all the dust was still around it and it got all over us. I do not recall, however, if it is an additional bolt or simply a replacement. In my photos, I only have the upper part of the climb. The start of this climb is indeed sketchy, so if it were additionally placed, it makes sense. That whole area is already marred with bolts, seems hardly worth the stress to mar it with chopped nubs. Sep 2, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
I am with Mark on this one, much better to work with RCA on this one if anyone feels strongly about the allegedly added bolt. When I last checked, TomA is on the RCA board so it even makes more sense.
I remember the very first time I got on this route I brought a cam along to protect the start. Aug 21, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I don't know anything about the bolt, but enough with the unilateral chopping threats by people who aren't even the FA party. If there is an issue, than it should be brought up with the RCA so things are handled properly and bolt wars don't ensue.

By the way, a number of people have been hurt on the bottem of that route, so it is not completely irrational for somebody to think it needs one, though I don't. Aug 21, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
If there is in fact a new bolt here, it is just a matter of time before someone removes it. I really hope nobody added a bolt... Aug 21, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
The route was done 24 years ago and NOW it needs another bolt ??? Shameful Aug 20, 2012
slk
Reno, NV
slk   Reno, NV
Did Tom Armstrong approve it?

Skip the new bolt... seriously... better yet, chop it... Aug 20, 2012
LOVE THIS CLIMB! I lead it last weekend, there seems to be a new bolt low down on the climb. The crux is so fun and there is a great hold setup. I am about 5 8 and a small horn nab me in the "boys" on the crux. So...you have been warned! Aug 8, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
The only move with any difficulty below the first bolt is the very first move off the ground. It is low enough that even a bolt would probably not keep you off the ground, a good spot from the belayer would do just as good! Jun 12, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
 
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
 
Haven't climbed this yet, but the guide book recommends a cam to cover the start of the route. Jun 12, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
I hardly used the left side of the arete, save for reaching around for the occasional hold. I also felt the first bolt was unnecessarily high. I would recommend an additional bolt maybe 8 feet below the first. Apr 14, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
I climbed this route entirely on the slab side today (mostly to the right of the bolts). Pretty nice and casual. Maybe one 10a move at the crux. Easier than staying mostly on the arete. Jun 4, 2011

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