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Beginner's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bolt Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonehead Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Turkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippos on Parade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hold Me aka The Move S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lies and Propaganda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Med Dose Madness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Misdemeanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mom's Pancake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rhino Bucket S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tunnel Zone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Glen Cilley
Page Views: 3,546 total, 28/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

For me, this climb was one I did once and tried to forget. The climb is awkward in the way it climbs up the sequence of ledges and you are always clipping a bolt strangely.

Clipping the anchors is by far the crux of this climb and shouldn't be attempted by a leader who isn't comfortable at the grade.

(*Added for clarification*- I am simply stating that the final holds are pumpy and awkward to reach. As a fall from the anchors while pulling up slack would be very painful, I suggest someone who's limit is 5.10 try this climb on TR to find the holds and become comfortable with them before s/he tries to lead this one.)

By the way, RhinoBUCKETS is a big of a misnomer. The holds on this route aren't all buckets, some of them can be difficult to hold on to for the grade, especially at the anchor. Although, there is a Rhino-shaped hold on the climb. It is a huge jug that resembles a rhino's horn if looked at the right way.(The previous sentence was added Post-Comment, thank you Chris Duca)

Location

Starts on big tree route just left of big boulder where the trail comes up from Flesh for Lulu.

Protection

8 bolts to anchor.
Don't botch a clip on this climb or you'll be on your way down to one of those ledges you mantled so awkwardly earlier.

Photos

Just climbed this for the first time after the comments on here scared me off. Thought it was a solid climb, and didn't find clipping the anchors to be a problem or dangerous. Definitely get on it! Jun 20, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Were new anchors added to this route between July 2013 and July 2015? The old double eye-bolts were still there off to the left (the big reach), but now there's another set of anchors with quick clips up and right of the originals. I don't get it. How come? Jul 13, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
fixed Jan 18, 2014
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
 
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
 
The route name is Rhino Bucket, not Rhinobuckets, it is named after the rock band Rhino Bucket. Jan 18, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
All the bolts are rock-solid on this route as of July 2013. There are no spinners or anything like that. Also, the correct name of the route is "Rhinobucket." It's singular—there's only one bucket shaped like the horn of a rhinoceros on the route. Climbing up the small dihedral to the rhinobucket is fun, but the hard part is the steep face climbing at the top of the route and then the big reach to the left to clip the anchors. Dicey! Aug 1, 2013
I liked this climb a lot. I had to scramble through mud and pause to dry my shoes for a while but once I got on it, there was some really great climbing. Jun 17, 2013
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
There is an anchor clipping jug at the very top of this climb, higher than the anchors, and about 18 inches to the right. I did not find any of the moves particularly awkward. The start is tricky when wet which is often the case in the Spring and Summer. May 3, 2013
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
 
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
 
Not my favorite of the Meadows climbs, but I'm sure with a lot of work it could be made less awkward. As an onsight, it was terrible and pumpy to work through and into the groove. I did enjoy several of the moves in the middle to end of the groove. Any fun I had was over-shadowed by the ledge fall potential from the anchor, the wet start and awkward moves into the groove.

As for clipping the anchors, I have never said the words "clipping, take, and ready to lower" in such quick succession. It went something like "CLIPPI-TA-READY TO LOWER!" Apr 7, 2012
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
 
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
 
This bolt is a wedge bolt and has no sleeve so it cant come out. The nut must be loose. If I get a chance I will check it out and fix it. Jul 7, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
didnt look super close but the hanger was spinning, the hanger looked bent and the bolt looked a little funky like more threads were exposed than should be... Jul 7, 2010
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
Lee,
Bad bolt/sleeve or spinning hanger?
I remember several spinners on this route when I last climbed it (in 2009).

Speaking of spinner, is the 7th or 8th hanger on Flesh still
on the bolt? I remembered someone replacing it last year because it had fallen off!

Thanks,
-SNeoh Jul 6, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
the second bolt is in kinda poor shape at the moment... Jul 6, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
Mike next time you are out be sure to get on it, I think it is really fun route but don't let your head get to you when clipping the chains, but overall great route. Jan 7, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i really wanted to get on this but when i went to do it there was a bees nest on it..... talk about a bummer Jan 7, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10a
I enjoyed this route and I really enjoyed the last few moves I like moves that get my heart racing and make me nervous, it is sort of crazy but when I am on something I could get hurt on if I fell I actually feel almost more comfortable... but I am a weird one sometimes. Jan 7, 2009
BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
I actually enjoyed the climb (except the ending part with the chains, that is a difficult move) May 26, 2008
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
you know, this is getting to be pretty funny. This climb actually holds a pretty warm spot in my heart as it was my first 5.10 onsight (maybe not a true onsight as I had known the grade and probably seen somebody on it once as I had frequented the meadows a bit before) and I found the climbing pretty interesting. I was however, fresh from warming up and at the early part of my day, not tired and sandbagged. Aug 21, 2007
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
ok... C0

Pretty funny Jay, I know absolutely nothing about rating aid climbing, I almost put down C0 but I didn't know if the rating existed...so I chose C1, I remember seeing that rating somewhere.

Now, of course too late, I've actually educated myself a bit and understand the difference. May 22, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
C1? Those chains are fixed. I'd say 5.8+ C0 tops. May 22, 2007
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
Yes... The not-quite, less-than, kinda-sorta-but-not, victory whip.

Of course, you could downrate the climb to 5.8+ C1 and grab the chains.... May 22, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Ah, the dreaded unintentional victory whip... May 22, 2007
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
Jay,
The victory whip from this climb would be bloody, I was just suggesting a leader try the climb first on TR to find the anchor clipping hold so that an unintentional victory-whip doesn't happen. May 22, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Ladd, you wrote that "Clipping the anchors is by far the crux of this climb and shouldn't be attempted by a leader who isn't comfortable at the grade."

Are you suggesting that the new leader jump from the anchors without clipping them? I know this is common practice on climbs such as Whip Tide and Predator, but I wonder if this "technique" has made it's way to the Meadows. May 17, 2007
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
Perhaps I should, Lee.

I remember feeling like this climb wasn't fun. To add to my dislike for the climb, my climbing partner has told me it was 5.8, and I was using it to burn out for the day. Only after climbing it did I look at the guidebook. Consequently, I've always had a sour taste in my mouth about this one.

Also, I don't climb with that climbing partner anymore. May 17, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
By the description I'd say you have every reason to do the route again.... I agree that there is only one "bucket" on the climb, but the route is well worthwhile and not too spicy once you learn the foot work and body positions.... As for clipping the anchors, don't clip them until you find the clipping hold and get comfortable.... There is a good hold up there....

The start can be a bit wet.... May 16, 2007
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.10b
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.10b
True that this route may not be for everyone due to its' technical stemming and spicy moves above bolts, but that does not make it a route to be forgotten. On the contrary, it is a good test of intestinal fortitude (in other words: keeping your s**t together!).

Also, at about mid-height on the route, there is a hold--a big, juggy, hold--that, if looked at the right way, resembles a rhino's horn.

Absolutely recommended! May 15, 2007