Type: Sport, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: Alan Catabriga 1988
Page Views: 4,858 total · 30/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 28, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A great route though a little lichen covered in parts, will likely get a lot cleaner now that it is fully bolted. A nice long single pitch of mostly juggy but interesting steep climbing. Yet another quality 5.10 at Rumney.

The original trad line started up near Rhino Buckets and followed the corner pretty much to the top of the cliff.
The line was recently retro-bolted and follows a slightly different line beginning down left to avoid some wet spots and follow the best rock. Just look for the line of bolts to the left of Rhino-buckets and climb away. Beta for the top - Once you clip the last bolt, traverse left on the horizontal, then layback the nice arete until you can reach the incut jugs back right - more fun and avoids the thin, dirtier moves you run into going strait up from the ledge on the right.

It has always been a great route... now the masses will know it too...

This is one of my favorite routes at the meadows.

Location

From the corner of the big parking lot, hike up the trail to the Holderness Corner area and take a left. As the trail squeezes through two boulders, look to your right. This is the right most bolted line that starts from the ground level (as opposed to off the ledge to the right)

Protection

11 SS glue-ins and anchors with clippies. Bring a few longer draws. Or, If you want the original flavor, bring a trad rack up to 3".

Photos