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Routes in Center Section

Beginner's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bolt Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonehead Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Turkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippos on Parade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hold Me aka The Move S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lies and Propaganda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Med Dose Madness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Misdemeanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mom's Pancake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rhino Bucket S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tunnel Zone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Alan Catabriga 1988
Page Views: 3,111 total, 25/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 28, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


110 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A great route though a little lichen covered in parts, will likely get a lot cleaner now that it is fully bolted. A nice long single pitch of mostly juggy but interesting steep climbing. Yet another quality 5.10 at Rumney.

The original trad line started up near Rhino Buckets and followed the corner pretty much to the top of the cliff.
The line was recently retro-bolted and follows a slightly different line beginning down right to avoid some wet spots and follow the best rock. Just look for the line of bolts to the left of Rhino-buckets and climb away. Beta for the top - Once you clip the last bolt, traverse left on the horizontal, then layback the nice arete until you can reach the incut jugs back right - more fun and avoids the thin, dirtier moves you run into going strait up from the ledge on the right.

It has always been a great route... now the masses will know it too...

This is one of my favorite routes at the meadows.

Location

From the corner of the big parking lot, hike up the trail to the Holderness Corner area and take a left. As the trail squeezes through two boulders, look to you right. This is the right most bolted line that starts from the ground level (as opposed to off the ledge to the right)

Protection

11 SS glue-ins and anchors with clippies. Bring a few longer draws. Or, If you want the original flavor, bring a trad rack up to 3".

Photos

Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
I thought the climb was really good—--cool moves and situations. It's one of those routes that climbs a lot better than it looks. From the bottom, it looks all choppy and rugged, but when on it, it feels like you're stemming up a big dihedral as you look down through your legs at your belayer. For me it climbed like a big open-book (with mega-jugs all the way— . . . definitely not 10c). Jul 13, 2015
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.10b
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.10b
I climbed this route yesterday, and I think it's the best 5.10 in the Meadows. It should clean up to be a popular route...which is so much better than languishing in obscurity as a sketchy trad line. Aug 9, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
You're too funny Ming! Wonderful to see you, your lovely wife, and adorable baby on Sat!! Everyone seems happy and enjoying life. Fantastic.
We traversed in from the right to end the climb just below the anchors, not unlike what I do on Rhinobucket (but that seems harder). I do not believe I grabbed anything that was loose or flexy. Eric and OM did not mention anything either.
Definitely not as hard as No Money Down or the roof of Bonehead Roof.
Jul 15, 2014
Ming
  5.10a/b
Ming  
  5.10a/b
Don't be fooled by S. Neoh's comments. I onsighted this but compared to the other benchmark 10a's at Rumney such as Masterpiece and Underdog this is definitely harder. I saw the moves left around the bulge but I went straight up to be more in line with the traditional line and that definitely goes at 10c - harder than Polly Purbred but easier than M. Falcon. So overall I split the difference and would call it 10 b/c. I personally think move to the chains from the last bolt is tricky too if you go straight up. The horizontal hold that makes for a good pinch that I think people has been using to stabilize themselves and go for the anchors WILL pop sooner rather than later - it flexed and almost popped on me when I grabbed it! So when that gets cleaned up it will be a little harder. Belayers please wear your helmets as that flexing hold is roughly 1/2 forearm size and will put a dent in someone's nogg'in if not careful. Jul 14, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
I climbed the bolted version today in spite of constant traffic on it most of the day. Nice climb. Will get better with traffic and the top cleans up (after the last bolt). The start was bone dry, pretty cool to be able to start the climb from the trail rather than the block for Rhinobucket.
Great bolt job!
I thought the difficulty is about the same as for Rhinobucket. A bunch of others thought the same too. We all were on it for the first time, on lead. Jul 12, 2014
john gregory
Lebanon, NH
john gregory   Lebanon, NH
i dont think anyone deserves a "misdemeanor" for making a route safer, cleaner, and more popular, BUT more importantly please remember "YOU DONT HAVE TO USE THE BOLTS!!" and if you're really hankering for unpopulated, dirty trad routes go to kinsman. Jul 7, 2014
J Meagher
  5.10b/c
J Meagher  
  5.10b/c
haha fair point Lee :) Jun 14, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Barefoot leading on gear... like the grown ups :P Jun 14, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Some of the "many" will learn how to trad climb one day and become the "few" at that point they may realize it was nice to have a classic 5.10 that there wasnt a line for on a busy day ;) Jun 14, 2014
J Meagher
  5.10b/c
J Meagher  
  5.10b/c
I think it was Spock who once said "The needs of the many, outweighs the needs of the few"... Therefore it seems its only logical for this to be bolted :)

Either way, looks like a cool route and I'm excited to try it next time I'm there! Jun 13, 2014
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
Thanks for bolting this Mark, now many more can enjoy this great line! Jun 12, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I changed it up mark, feel free to make any other changes you'd like to see... Jun 9, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Lee, the description will need an update when you get a chance. The bolts are all in and the anchor was replaced a few feet to the left to get it in more solid rock. It could still use a lot more cleaning, but I think the route received a couple dozen ascents this weekend and people seemed to be loving it. I climbed the crux bulge to the right (fun!), but Hillary Harris found an easier sequence using sidepulls to the left that makes it about 10b. The bolt protects both ways well.
beta for the top - Once you clip the last bolt, traverse left on the horizontal, then layback the nice arete until you can reach the incut jugs back right - more fun and avoids the thin moves you run into going strait up from the ledge on the right. Jun 9, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
Exactly what Mark said. I think final call rests with Alan in this case.
Just to be clear, I am not for putting in a bolt below the crack on Retrospade (besides Tom is against it the last time we spoke). And I am for leaving Sky Pilot as is (perhaps 1 to 3 pieces after the 3rd bolt), since the gear is good and straightforward. Jun 4, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
If it needed a triple set of cams it wouldn't be bolted. People seem to hate mixed gear routes at Rumney though. People come up and ask me to retro Retrospade (a mostly bolted route) all the time. I refuse because you can see what you need easily from the ground and it is easy to set up a TR after doing an easier route to its right. Misdemeanor is not a continuous crack all the way and the crack itself is usually wet on its lower part. I definitely wouldn't bolt it all up elsewhere, but if most people at the crag are saying Yay! and the FA wants it, I think it is alright in this case. People will be able to TR the direct version of Tunnel Zone after doing it too, which is cool. Jun 4, 2014
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Ok, I'm not a troll and don't climb at Rumney. Bolting crack lines sucks.. aren't there enough routes to do ??? I mean , come on.it's not like you need a triple set of cams here. Jun 4, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
YESSS! lol. I am mixed on the idea, personally, as there is good possible gear on much of the route and completely understand and sympathize with the view that Chris expressed. However,the fact that such a great line barely receives any ascents beyond Lee's and gets overgrown with lichen convinced me to help with the project. It being at Rumney, and not at another area was a big part of it. The vast majority of Rumney visitors are looking to get on the climbs for climbing sake and not placing gear. It is a small mecca for this style. Some bolts also allows for following the natural clean and dryer line instead of having to stick where the better gear might be. Attractive moss and plants can be left undisturbed. Many more people will be able to enjoy the route. It is a mixed bag for sure, but in balance I think the Rumney user group will enjoy it more with bolts. Remember, Alan is a dude who regularly speed free solos Cannon, so is no "weenie sport climber".
That being said, I am looking forward to climbing it on gear only at least once when it is cleaned up. MLevine, You could work on your trad skills by placing gear on this with the bolts backing you up.

If we are going to have much more discussion, it might be better to use the forum, but then again we will get swamped with trolls and opinions from people who haven't and never will climb at Rumney. Jun 4, 2014
NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!

NRG is one of my favorite destinations, mostly because of the varied styles. I realize that Rumney has evolved in a different way, but preserving the few remaining high quality traditional lines -- that get climbed as they are -- seems prudent to me. There are Rumney climbers that lug rucks around! I love Rumney, but shake my head at bolted trad lines (and I've drilled many dozens of bolts).

I realize this is a shitty arguement and often used to justify r/x rates routes (protection is not an issue here): Mlevine, something you can aspire to. If you'd like to lead this route, learn to place gear more efficiently. I'd even be happy to teach you, shoot me a PM. Jun 4, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10a
S. Neoh  
  5.10a
Cool. Anything to keep it cleaner. Good climbing but looked dirty for the past 10 years or so. Putting in a new, drier start would be great.
Can't wait to check it out. Jun 4, 2014
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
I am excited for this to get retro'ed. Even as I get more and more comfortable with trad, 5.10c still seems a bit bold for me. Jun 3, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
well i cant argue with it if Alan wants it bolted but i thought it was fine on gear and filthy... oh well another route where i will be able to use the line "why when i was your age that was a trad route!" Jun 2, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
This is a wonderful line (strong 2 stars IMO). With some cleaning, I agree with Lee and think it is the best 5.10 in the Meadows/Parking lot wall area. It is a nice long single pitch, with steep interesting moves on generally great holds. It is currently in the process of getting retroed, per the request of Alan (sorry Lee and other traddies :(( ) A group of us (just to be clear, this is not an RCA project) are pitching in. Alan said he would scrub it up if we helped him bolt it. At least with bolts it should stay much cleaner, as I am sure it will become very popular! The intention is to start a little to the left than originally, to keep you out of the wet mung and plants. Jun 2, 2014