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Routes in Center Section

Beginner's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bolt Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonehead Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Turkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippos on Parade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hold Me aka The Move S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lies and Propaganda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Med Dose Madness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Misdemeanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mom's Pancake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rhino Bucket S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tunnel Zone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Glen Cilley
Page Views: 5,594 total, 44/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


249 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Better than Lies and Propaganda...at least in my humble opinion.
This line starts just left of Lies and Propaganda and climbs straight up on decent holds, making some fun moves that are a great lead at the grade and a good warm-up too.
The crux is making an airy move left on big holds then pulling the rest of the buldge.

Location

Just left of Lies and Propaganda, just right of the corner.

Protection

Bolts to Anchors
This climb is great. It's quite challenging and interesting for the grade. Jul 4, 2017
S. Neoh
  5.9+
S. Neoh  
  5.9+
Thanks Ward and DQ.
You have restored one of my fave moderates by restoring the lower anchor.
After a few more runs, I now agree with Ward; .8+ to lower anchor, .9+ to the top. Sep 13, 2016
Anchors have been replaced at ledge, somewhat lower than original. All protection bolts replaced with glue-ins; all in original holes except one. Top has also been cleaned. 5.8+ to first anchor; 5.9+ to top.

If you think that the bottom is 5.9 then you are going the wrong way. Sep 13, 2016
Gini Kramer
North Haven, CT
Gini Kramer   North Haven, CT
I agree with kemple sr and Matt. A beautiful line ruined by a totally awkward and out-of-character finish. It will be nice to have a choice of lower and upper anchors. Sep 13, 2016
The route is scheduled to be upgraded to all glue in bolts, and the lower anchor will be replaced at that time, or perhaps sooner, which will provide both the original top out finish or the lower moderate finish. Sep 12, 2016
Matt T
Boston, MA
 
Matt T   Boston, MA
 
Also disappointed with the new anchor location. Definitely an awkward sequence that doesn't flow with the rest of the route.

Also the top two bolts are so awkwardly close together. I get the reasoning of the new last bolt, but it's very aesthetically unpleasing. Maybe the bolt below that can be removed to clear up the cluster? Sep 9, 2016
Moving the anchors up made a pretty good 5.8, a pretty bad 5.9. Topout is spikey,dirty, and not rewarding. Little doubt that first ascent topped out. How else were they getting down with no bolts? Almost all of the meadows routes originally topped out. I think Shim had it right and anchors should be at ledge height. Sep 2, 2016
Tyson Miller
Lebanon, NH
  5.9
Tyson Miller   Lebanon, NH
  5.9
Love the new finish, and even with a longish draw on the last bolt you can easily miss the ledge. Aug 16, 2016
S. Neoh
  5.9+
S. Neoh  
  5.9+
I agree with Den; the extension increases difficulty at the expense of quality. Expect sharp, spiney holds and awkward climbing (easier if you are small like me) to gain the finishing ledge. Now 5.9+ and one fewer star compared to before, IMHO.
P.S. If you use a short draw on the newly added (and last Wave Bolt) bolt, you likely will not hit the ledge if you have an alert and solid belayer, should you blow the finishing sequence. Aug 7, 2016
Den
Den  
Changes sometimes leave me scratching my head. Regardless of its possible historic connections, the newly bolted extension involves unpleasant moves over sharp, dirty rock which is out of character with the lower section. Also gives the route a discontinuous and rambling quality, that could be hard on ropes. I'd say the new grade should be bumped up a full notch. In my opinion, the overall route quality has been diminished. However, I predict that finishing up the last bit of Lies and Propaganda will become standard practice and parties will continue to enjoy Hippos as a moderate link-up worthy of its stars. Jul 31, 2016
Cam Harrison  
 
Why the change in the anchors? I got on it again the week after they were moved and the new top moves were very sharp and seemed to have the potential to deck on the ledge if one fell on their top out Jul 14, 2016
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
5.9
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
5.9
The (old) new moves at the top make the route interesting again! And, like many Rumney routes, it'll break your heart at the end. The top crux is substantially tougher than the lower crux, even when you have figured out the beta.

On the weekend when the anchor moved, I tried and failed to find moves the first day. Found the moves the second time around and was pretty proud of myself. Later that week, I watched no fewer than 4 groups give up at the top. One person was reduced to tears, I kid you not. Jul 11, 2016
The anchors have been moved up to the same block as Lies, and there is also an added bolt at the top. The original Glen Cilley route did not end on the ledge.

I will check it out this weekend, but I've been told that there will be no further talk of 5.8! Jul 2, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9
Struggled my old bones up this today and it sure felt like 5.9. Didn't see the guidebook until I got home and the 5.8+ listing. Glad to see the overall rating is 5.9 in MntPrjct.
While it does use strength on the buckets, I actually thought the footwork and balance intriguing, hence my 3 stars.
(Re' comment above from 2 yrs ago, It didn't seem "slimy" to me.) May 10, 2016
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.9
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.9
Did this route again tonight. I haven't done it in a couple years so I forgot the beta and it's almost like a slimy gym climb now. So much traffic with so much chalk and rubber on it. Sep 15, 2014
Tyler Newcomb
  5.8+
Tyler Newcomb  
  5.8+
I am even shorter(5 feet) and I thought it was a 5.8 or 5.8+ if you go out to the right a bit to get over that bulge. Great fun route, close to the parking lot, overall best for a warmup in my opinion. Dec 26, 2012
J Meagher
  5.8+
J Meagher  
  5.8+
I think the guidebook 5.8 is accurate, even for short people (I'm about 5'4''). The crux reach felt easier than some of 5.9's and even some 5.8's I've done in the gym. Oct 25, 2012
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
  5.8+
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
  5.8+
Downgrade? I could be mistaken, but I feel as though I've always seen this at .8+... If you follow the chalk you're being sandbagged... Oct 24, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
I have always said this is a 5.9. Im no sure about the downgrade on this one in the new guide... Oct 24, 2012
J Meagher
  5.8+
J Meagher  
  5.8+
Really great route, with slightly overhanging wall and big moves between good jugs. There is a definite crux, which is grabbing onto the large flake/jug. Mantling onto the ledge immediately after the crux is also a fun move. Definently worth doing for the 5.8 climber. Oct 24, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.8+
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.8+
Fun. Enjoyable climbing up to the crux, and a great chance for a sub-10 climber to try some pretty overhanging stuff with a thought-provoking traverse at the crux. Apr 4, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
when i did it i followed the current line then broke right, as you said, and clipped a pin just before making the last few moves on to the ledge... not sure if the pin is still there... it was pretty spicy from what i remember... Nov 18, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
So I was looking at the old guide book and I was wondering if anyone had any insight to the old trad line 'Attack of Life'. I have been trying to do as many Rumney routes as possible on gear and noticed this one in the old guide. It seems to have followed the 'Hippo's on Parade' line then broke right to the anchors of 'Lies and Propaganda'.

The guide says that it had 2 bolts and a pin. Does anyone know where these were located. I would like to do the route in the original style. Nov 18, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
im tall and i always felt 5.9 was right... Nov 24, 2009
S. Neoh
  5.9+
S. Neoh  
  5.9+
Speaking up for the vertically-challenged among us - this route felt harder than 5.8 to me (and I am short). It is a cool addition to the crag.
Easily 2.5 stars! Nov 24, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
This route is 5.8 for the taller climber but the crux can feel more like 5.9 for the short climber. Great route though. Nov 23, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
  5.8+
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
  5.8+
Hippos on Parade is the sport line....and it goes at 5.8 Oct 12, 2008
This route is Hippos on Parade. Attack of life is the crack and slab to the left of this Jul 16, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I'm not sure...I have heard it called Hippos, but this doesn't mean much. May 17, 2007
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
Maybe it is Jay. I'm pretty ambivilant when it comes to route history...
If you are sure about the name, I'd be happy to change it.
I named it this because it was what the guidebook called it (but that was the trad route and took a tiny bit of a different line). May 17, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I thought this was called "Hippos on Parade." May 16, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i agree that this line is better than lies... i first climbed it as a spicy gear route and though i dont often say this im happy they retrobolted it... May 16, 2007