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Routes in Center Section

Beginner's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bolt Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonehead Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Turkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippos on Parade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hold Me aka The Move S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lies and Propaganda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Med Dose Madness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Misdemeanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mom's Pancake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rhino Bucket S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tunnel Zone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1987
Page Views: 5,029 total, 38/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Feb 25, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Lies and Propaganda is deservedly one of the most popular 5.9s at Rumney. In late 2005, a large flake fell off the bottom of the route that upped the difficulty level a bit. The initial moves to the second bolt are steep and pumpy, with the crux coming right after the second bolt. The climbing eases a bit in the middle, and then finishes through a fun, juggy overhang. After pulling through the overhang, work around to the right and climb the final short slab to the anchors. Fun climb, and worth the wait.

Location

Located on a prominent arête just right of Rose Garden and the No Money Down area. Just look for the longest line at the Meadows, get in line, and you’ll eventually end up below L & P.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
No line when we walked by today so could not resist getting on it again after 15+ years not touching it. The polished start was the crux for me today. The climbing above was not as sharp as I remembered. The overhang near the end is fun but not as exciting as the original "go around the arête at about 2/3 height, and slab it up to the top" finish. That finish is no longer protected with fixed gear. BITD, the slab felt more insecure than the crimps down low. The first and second times I led the climb about 20 years ago, I even placed a cam in a crack about a body length below from the anchors. May 29, 2016
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Reaffirmed my love for this route today. Such a fun line that I hate to pass up if I'm in the area..... Jun 13, 2015
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I climbed this one a while ago. No falls, a few hangs as I was pumped at the end of the day. The most memorbale for me was rocking onto the slab at the top. And I think it was snowing too. Sep 28, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.9
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.9
I felt that getting to the first bolt was the most fun part of this climb. The crux was ok, but was not that enjoyable for me. Seems like a good climb to start working the stamina of a 5.9 leader, as the crux sequence is draining at the grade, not too long, but also not just 1 move either. Apr 4, 2012
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Gave this a try today, falling mid-crux with slack makes for an interesting situation. I had the privilege of waving to my belayer as he flew past me...good pumpy start though. Jun 1, 2011
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
one of my first rumney leads, good job. Mar 26, 2010
Alyson Sewell
Plymouth, NH
 
Alyson Sewell   Plymouth, NH
 
I absolutely loved this route! I got on it for the first time today and led it! I did have one hang because the top part before the anchors is a bit tricky to get up and over the bulge, you just need to find the holds that work for you... they are there! 5 out of 4 stars for me! Mar 25, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
I got on this route for the first time this summer and was severely saddened I had not been on it before the bottom flows beautifully and the overhang at the top is just good old fashioned fun. Dec 28, 2008
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
Tom Armstrong did this climb ground up, onsight. 1st two bolts drilled from a hook. Nov 16, 2008
Kayte Knower  
 
This was my first ever project at Rumney. I was so proud to top out onto that slab. It's still one of my favorites. Mar 3, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.9
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.9
The huge flake was deliberately pried off. It was basically just sitting there and if someone ended up pulling it off, it would have created serious mayhem. Now, it serves as a perfect belay/hang-out seat at the base. Feb 26, 2007