Type: Sport
FA: Tom Armstrong 5/88
Page Views: 4,624 total · 31/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


213 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

The far left side of the Meadows is mostly a collection of lower angle slabby climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.9...However all the way left it gets quite steep and there is one line in particular that stands out....

No Money Down is a Gunks like climb that starts in a corner on the left end of The Meadows and goes over a beautiful roof (this was the farthest route left when the last guide was published).... Starting up the corner you climb about 35 feet up on awkward but moderate horizontal edges.... Rest briefly and head up to the roof toward a weird horn and a hueco.... Pull over the roof and, just when you think it's over, you hit the crux.... All the holds seem to be at odd angles, your feet leave something to be desired, and it can be reachy for smaller climbers...but don't despair, one or two moves to the left will deliver the chains....

This was a mostly trad route with one bolt at the crux, but it got bolted recently... So now it is for anyone and everyone to try....

Location

Far left end of the Meadows climbing a prominent roof.... after a few routes were added this is now the 3rd route from the left...

Protection

4 or 5 bolts to chains...(was a gear route when the last guide was published).

Photos

Ladd Raine

  5.10c/d
Ladd Raine    
  5.10c/d
Depending on your ability to jam and comfortability on mini-overhangs and slopers this climb can feel much more like a solid 5.10d May 2, 2007
Ladd Raine

  5.10c/d
Ladd Raine    
  5.10c/d
As of 6/13/07 the fourth bolt (invisible from the ground) is missing its hanger... bring up a nut to sling the bolts with, or find another climb to do. Hope that the hanger gets replaced somewhat soon, this climb is a fun one. Jun 17, 2007
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.10c
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.10c
I climbed on it this past weekend and all the bolts seemed to be there.
Great Climb!!! Oct 6, 2008
Adam Conroy
Cambridge, MA
 
Adam Conroy   Cambridge, MA
 
It was at the end of the day and I wasn't able to send it but I loved the end of the route. The hueco to the roof is a fun satisfying move and then the sketchy balancing after lets you know why this is a solid 10c. A hearty 4 stars from me. Apr 21, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10c
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10c
this route is the thrid bolted line from the left end of the meadows.
GREAT ROUTE. May 13, 2009
S. Neoh
  5.10c
S. Neoh  
  5.10c
I got re-acquainted with this fine route today after many years; enjoyable as ever. Solid at .10c.

Lee, if you can find decent gear around the last bolt, this is a candidate for an all trad gear ascent. I led this route in 1995 with trad pieces (2?) plus the lone bolt. No problem with gear the 1st half of the climb. Aug 1, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10c
yeah i think these days i could do it without the bolt... however, my first time leading it it still only had 1 bolt... i remember being pissed about the retro-bolting but im over it now, haha Aug 1, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.10b
Great climb - blew the onsight attempt, but went back yesterday and put her to rest. Fun route! Oct 23, 2010
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Is this route supposed to have quick-clips to lower from? Currently the anchor is eyebolt-rapide-rap ring for both bolts. Mar 18, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Well this route shut me right down on the last hard move this weekend. I went back and got the move on top rope... it just seems harder than 10c to me. Then again, maybe I am doing it wrong. May 14, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
So, after the last bolt, can someone PM me some beta? May 15, 2012
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
 
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
 
Thought this was a really fun route that stayed pretty dry even when the rest of the wall was soaked. There is a healthy distance between the last bolt and the chains, though looks like a clean fall. After initially backing off the tricky/balancy last move and hanging on the last bolt, I figured out different much easier beta. Sep 9, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
As for many, this seemed WAY hard at the grade. Certainly compared to other semi-classic 10c's at Rumney like Clusterphobia Oct 6, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10c
S. Neoh  
  5.10c
Welcome to old style, TomA grading. No fluff. Examples - NMD (.10c), Arm & Hammer (.11a), Salley's Alley (.11b), Retrospade (.11c), Paradox (.12c). I believe most are given higher grade these days, except No Money Down. Oct 6, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.10c
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.10c
I just did this again after a long while. "...your ability to jam"...we must do this entirely differently because I don't jam anything, just grab steep jugs and side pulls. Aug 3, 2015
There are 4 bolts on this climb, not 5 like the guide book says. The 3rd bolt from the ground blends into the rock nicely. Oct 10, 2015
Ghost
Burlington, VT
  5.10c
Ghost   Burlington, VT
  5.10c
Super fun, just wish it was a little longer. Nov 11, 2015