Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,568 total · 36/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

After climbing hundreds of routes at Rumney, this one is still a favorite.... The flow of movement on Beginner's Route is as good as any.... It's a great way for an advanced climber to warm up slow, or a beginner to hone their skills....

The climb follows a crack in a left-facing corner up a slab...mostly you stay on your feet and use the crack and a few face holds for balance...there are two comfortable rest ledges where you can load up gear placements if you are new and want some practice...at the top you climb a 10 ft slab to the quick clips....

Rumney trad climbs are few and far between, and the ones that are there often get overlooked.... Don't miss this one. A small rack is plenty, and if you don't have gear, you can climb Bolt Line (a 5.8 sport climb just to the left) and step right at the top to set up a top rope on Beginners....
As always, please don't wear out the quick clips, TR off your own draws....

Location Suggest change

From the main access trail, turn left at the holderness corner area (far right of the meadows) following the cliff you will climb up between two boulders Beginners is right in front of you....

Protection Suggest change

Trad gear to quick clips (you can reach a bolt about a third of the way up that has recently been added for another climb... but you really don't need it).