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Beginner's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bolt Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonehead Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Turkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippos on Parade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hold Me aka The Move S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lies and Propaganda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Med Dose Madness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Misdemeanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mom's Pancake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rhino Bucket S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tunnel Zone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,126 total, 31/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


74 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

After climbing hundreds of routes at Rumney, this one is still a favorite.... The flow of movement on Beginner's Route is as good as any.... It's a great way for an advanced climber to warm up slow, or a beginner to hone their skills....

The climb follows a crack in a left-facing corner up a slab...mostly you stay on your feet and use the crack and a few face holds for balance...there are two comfortable rest ledges where you can load up gear placements if you are new and want some practice...at the top you climb a 10 ft slab to the quick clips....

Rumney trad climbs are few and far between, and the ones that are there often get overlooked.... Don't miss this one. A small rack is plenty, and if you don't have gear, you can climb Bolt Line (a 5.8 sport climb just to the left) and step right at the top to set up a top rope on Beginners....
As always, please don't wear out the quick clips, TR off your own draws....

Location

From the main access trail, turn left at the holderness corner area (far right of the meadows) following the cliff you will climb up between two boulders Beginners is right in front of you....

Protection

Trad gear to quick clips (you can reach a bolt about a third of the way up that has recently been added for another climb... but you really don't need it).
Best way to describe this route right now: youtu.be/-1GadTfGFvU Aug 19, 2015
lukeweiss
St. Johnsbury, VT
  5.5
lukeweiss   St. Johnsbury, VT
  5.5
Really enjoyed climbing this one yesterday. I noticed the flake right as I weighted it under my foot, testing the hold, it visually wobbled, but I couldn't really feel the wobble, very slight. A bit sketchy, but didn't seem to want to pop off just yet.
Otherwise, great route. One note: I used 6 pieces and only had 5 alpine draws (I also slung the tree before the runout slab). There was a bit of drag on the one piece that was not extended, which would not have occurred if I had one more extendable/shoulder sling. So, if you want to zip it up like I did you will want at least 6 alpines/shoulder length slings for a nice smooth lower at the quick clips. Aug 7, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.5
I have tried to pull that flake out multiple times over the last few years, with no success. Maybe the freeze thaw this year has finally made it possible, just be very careful as the landing area is very high traffic! Be best to have people keeping the walkway blocked while you pull it. Mar 31, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Happy to do this route, even in its seepy condition. There is a flake that is loose at the top, and should be pulled out at an opportune time. I'll do it next time I go up there if others think it is a good idea. Mar 31, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.5
Did another lap on this today, really hard to beat this climb, flows well, good gear. Pretty perfect Apr 30, 2014
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
This is a great route for a new trad leader that has a few leads under their belt and already has some gear placing experience. There are a lot of lessons on this route for the new-ish leader that can be very valuable. The gear isn't necessarily straightforward and requires some attention to detail - there are cracks that flare in or out, there is potential for cams walking out of position, there is potential to place gear that would't hold horizontal forces from a swinging fall etc.

The route will teach the importance of extending pieces with alpine draws, as it will be required on this route or you will experience rope drag, have your cams walk out of position, and/or have your nuts pop out. Make sure someone teaches you what zippering is and make sure your first piece is multi-directional - between the position of the belayer and the route's traversing nature, this route has zipper written all over it. Oct 2, 2013
kenr
 
kenr  
 
Great climb, would do it again. Seemed to me there was a run-out section about 20 feet up before reaching the crack (then another run-out at the top). Otherwise well-protected with a normal modern rock (no need for big cams), with nice stances for placing gear.

Without a trad rack, does not seem like a smart idea -- as a route for "Beginners" -- to top-rope it from Bolt Line . . . because someone who fell in the lower part would take a substantial swing. So still need some trad gear to place directionals. Aug 5, 2011
N Nelsen
Thornton, NH
N Nelsen   Thornton, NH
I was on this route yesterday and the loose flake below the anchors feels much looser than it has before. Just something good to keep in mind. If you're desperate, it'd be better to take the fall than frantically pull a large piece onto your belayer and the many other people who frequent below this climb (especially on a weekend- yikes!). Jun 10, 2010
Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
Pal Pocsi   Budapest, Hungary
This route was fun indeed. The moves are great and there are always nice stances for placing gear. I did find two pieces of loose rock right near the end of the climb. The bigger of the two was about 18" long in the flake below the anchors. It was ok to pull down on this but I think it would separate if you pulled out. Oct 20, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.5
This route is awesome, much fun a good intro to trad climbing with good placements and a "runout" at the top, to keep things spicy. There are great under clings and completely unnecessary hand jams which are always fun. Gear: Nuts and anything up to a number 2 cam. have fun Sep 9, 2009
joneus
Salem, CT
 
joneus   Salem, CT
 
Does climbing this in the rain up the grade? Made it as far as the first flake, but the under cling was too slimy to use, even for shifting balance while stepping left. I even tried going around it to the right. Gave it a good 20mins before my arms gave out. Will try again on a dryer day! Aug 24, 2009