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Routes in Holderness Corner

Flesh For Lulu S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Holderness Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holderness Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holderness School Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hope For Movement S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
White Rhino S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bolted off pillar by Scott Stevenson, FA Duncan McCallum, spring '88
Page Views: 3,707 total, 29/month
Shared By: Maurice Liddy on May 31, 2007 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

The route immediately to the left of Flesh for Lulu. Long and excellent also although not as perfect as its neighbor. Easy start to a somewhat tricky bulge. Rest on the ledge before heading up and left through another 50 feet of really fun, sustained climbing. Awkward finish detracts from the route in my humble opinion. But still very high quality.

This route has a convoluted history, with the name and line changing over time. The original Duncan McCallum line, Hope for Donna, stepped off the pillar to the left to gain the face and finished up and right. Scott Stevenson bolted the left hand finish which was likely FA'ed by Dave Jacobson. The lower start was bolted years later. See the comments below.

Protection

10 bolts to fixed clips.

Photos

Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I was happy to get on this for the first time earlier today. I thought this route had some really enjoyable climbing up to the last draw. The sun was coming around the corner and baking me so I came down before figuring out the final sequence to the anchor. Reading that this has an "awkward finish" mades me feel a little bit better. I blocked the sun with my hand for a few minutes trying to figure out what might work. It seems like the final few hand holds are slopey crimps? or was I missing something. Any thoughts? Jul 17, 2011
Yo Paul! It has been a long time, still climbing? Please drop me a line at davej1222@hotmail.com. I live in colorado not far from Rifle. Hope all is well with you. Would love to hear from you. Jan 24, 2011
Hey Dave J! I do remember climbing that pitch in early june of 1989, just prior to moving out west, but did not realize it was a FA. I was in Rumney Oct 2009 and ran into folks who mentioned it was 'corrected' in the new guide. My wife then teased me for a couple of weeks for not remembering the FA.... And it may not have been... That was many moons ago and I was pretty wrapped up in Kundalini those last months I was in town.

Hope all is well.

EDIT TO ADD: regardless of who sent first, I hope the guide mentions Scott's name since he did the hard part, bolting and cleaning. Jan 10, 2011
Hey Jerry, How is it going? Long time no see. Still climbing? If you are ever out in Rifle drop me a line. Hope all is well with you. davej1222@hotmail.com Dec 11, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Awesome thanks for the history, glad its all cleared up :) Dec 5, 2010
ok lets clear things up a bit.
Duncan McCallum did the first ascent of Hope for Donna in the spring of 1988 in a pretty impressive one day ascent, after bolting then route the previous day.
The route went up to that sloping shelf after the crux, then moved right to finish up the original finish of Flesh For Lulu which was up the center of the headwall to the left of where Flesh finishes now.
Next year Scott prepped but did not complete a left-hand finish which went up the thin crack/seam off the left end of the shelf (past a pin in those days I believe). Dave finished off Scotts project later that summer (1989?) and the route was called Hope for Movement.

Duncans route was a good bit harder than the L hand finish and, I always felt, a better way of doing the route since it made it longer and a lot pumpier, but off course that meant fiddling in a tiny wire in the middle of the headwall, so Scotts/Daves version became the standard route. Dec 4, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Sorry about the mis-information I got my info from the old Rumney guidebook and the new guide say the FA was Paul Cousar. Hopefully in the next edition it will get it right for you :) Dec 4, 2010
S. Neoh  
I happen to think, aesthetics wise, it is better that the route now has its start from the ground. The lower section of rock was rather dirty and unappealing before someone (anyone know who?) cleaned it and put in the bolts (which I do not recall seeing until the past few years).
Dec 4, 2010
Oh yeah, I rated it 12.c Dec 4, 2010
No offense but Duncan did not get the first ascent of this climb. There were three groups going for the first ascent. Duncan wanted to call it hope for donna, he left the states before completion. Scott stephenson was working on it and wanted to call it infinite movement. I got the first ascent with john mallory belaying and called it hope for movement. Ah, those were the days! Dec 4, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
The first ascent was done by Duncan McCallum 5/88, and was originally called Hope For Donna and was a less direct route that it is now. Jan 7, 2009
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
I've did a fair amount of belaying for this climb about 2 years ago, I think that the bolts were relatively new when my climbing partner was projecting this route, maybe as little as 6 months old. Jun 1, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I think some bolts have been below the ledge for a while now. I'm not sure about the history of the bolts on this wall. After all, Flesh for Lulu seems to have grown bolts over the years (not that I'm complaining, mind you). May 31, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12d
Even when there weren't bolts? May 31, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I've always started from the ground. It seems less sketchy than scrambling up on the ledge. May 31, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12d
So, a start from the ground has been added I take it?
It was 6 bolts starting from the ledge/boulders up and left of the start for Flesh....
It makes sense to start from the ground.... May 31, 2007