Avg: 3.6 from 186 votes
|FA:||Jerry Handren 10/82|
|Page Views:||22,135 total · 134/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Starting with low-angle climbing typical of the easier Meadows climbs, you overcome a bulge at no harder than 5.10 gaining a ledge. Rest up then embark upon the cruxy second half of the route taking the path of least resistance up the slightly overhanging orangeish rock. From the rest ledge, move up and right to a bolt a super crimpy crux will test your fingers as you start, but the true crux for most lies at the end. After 5.11ish climbing past crimps and jugs, you clip the last bolt and traverse right. A few crimpy, pumpy holds guard a hidden jug which marks the end of your struggle and the beginning of your celebration. You have climbed one of THE classic 5.12s at Rumney.
This route was originally done with only 2 bolts, when the guide book was published it had 9 and now there are eleven. Don't come up short on draws or it will be scary at the top.