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Routes in Holderness Corner

Flesh For Lulu S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Holderness Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holderness Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holderness School Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hope For Movement S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
White Rhino S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Jerry Handren 10/82
Page Views: 17,812 total, 134/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Such a perfect piece of rock. The kind of route that you walk up to and just have to climb.

Starting with low-angle climbing typical of the easier Meadows climbs, you overcome a bulge at no harder than 5.10 gaining a ledge. Rest up then embark upon the cruxy second half of the route taking the path of least resistance up the slightly overhanging orangeish rock. From the rest ledge, move up and right to a bolt a super crimpy crux will test your fingers as you start, but the true crux for most lies at the end. After 5.11ish climbing past crimps and jugs, you clip the last bolt and traverse right. A few crimpy, pumpy holds guard a hidden jug which marks the end of your struggle and the beginning of your celebration. You have climbed one of THE classic 5.12s at Rumney.

This route was originally done with only 2 bolts, when the guide book was published it had 9 and now there are eleven. Don't come up short on draws or it will be scary at the top.

Location

Flesh for Lulu is the first wall you come to on the main Meadows trail coming from the big parking lot. Can't miss it.

Protection

11 bolts to quick clips.
fun route. starts on some techy slabby/face climbing into pretty technical slihgtly overhung climbing. this route has two definitive cruxes, one in the middle and one at the top, but very much worth the effort. would definitely recommend trying this thing.

it's the first wall you come to when taking the stairs at the end of the parking lot, cant miss it. runs straight up the middle. to the right is holderness corner (trad) and to the left is hope for movement. May 23, 2017
Graham O.  
 
Very very high quality line! Perfectly sculpted crimps up a slightly overhanging face with a few cruxy sections and massive whipper potential. One of the best at Rumney. Aug 13, 2016
MattRat
 
MattRat  
 
Great looking route with plenty of quality holds and moves.

However...

I would not give this route more than 2 or 3 stars. The first crux after the half-way ledge has an overabundance of rubber scum on all the footholds, and enough tick marks to support all of Rumney's crucial holds. In my opinion this is the only thing that makes this route harder than 5.12a.

The "upper-crux" is no harder than V4. The pump factor is the only thing that makes these final moves seem harder than they actually are.

I understand why this is such a popular route... visually appealing, 5.10 climbing for 90% of the route, the easiest approach in all of Rumney, and the coveted 5.12 benchmark stamped next to the route name.

Good luck on the onsight! Oct 30, 2015
ONSIGHT SPOILER!

In my opinion, this route has two different options at the crux. From the bolt off the big ledge:

(1) Move up and left of the bolt, using a lot of small crimps and maybe a mono pocket. This is the harder crux, technical with very cool moves.

(2) Move up and right of the bolt, through small crimps and sidepulls/Gaston then making a long reach straight up to the good holds. Fewer moves, less technical, and the long reach can be made by short climbers.

The guy in this pic is doing the (2) version, but skipping a Gaston and going for a very long reach. Notice the chalked up holds to his left, that is crux version (1).
mountainproject.com/v/10644…

This pic also shows the right hand version (2) crux.
mountainproject.com/v/10811…

Excellent route! Jun 25, 2015
S. Neoh  
seanandon, in your opinion, where is the PG-13 part? Between the 10th and 11th bolt?
Sorry you had to leave a bail biner. Oct 31, 2011
Sean Foster
  5.12b PG13
Sean Foster  
  5.12b PG13
Excellent route. Well graded. I worked very hard to eventually bail from the 10th bolt. Whoever picks up my BD biner, you are welcome. Looking forward to another go when next I visit New Hampshire! Oct 31, 2011
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
I second the motion Mark! Jun 30, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
plus gear, though not much from what I can remember from leading it many years ago before the lower face had any bolts. I for one am glad this route was retrobolted and not left as an ode to one guys ego. It is a fine route with very nice climbing and would be a complete shame to have it sitting there growing moss. Apr 18, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
So was the FA done with 2 bolts plus gear, or only 2 bolts on the whole climb? Apr 18, 2010
hanger has been fixed. Aug 14, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I was in rumney today and walked by this route and there was a sign on the base saying the hanger on the 8th bolt had fallen off... just a heads up Aug 4, 2009
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
 
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
 
This is a great climb. It beat me the F down when I tried it, but it is a great climb. May 25, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I haven't finished this or even come close but have been on it, and two bolts must have been scary stuff, that guys had some serious toughness. Dec 24, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks for the history... i always wondered where the 2 bolts were... Sep 22, 2007
Victor McConnell
Golden, CO
Victor McConnell   Golden, CO
Great route. Some history: Jerry Handren never wanted this route to be retro-bolted. He placed the two bolts on rappel pre-sport climbing era. With no top-rope rehearsal, he sent the thing after 4 days of effort and some serious fear.

The bolts were chopped by Ken Nichols when he came and chopped all of Rumney's bolts. Then the route was retro-bolted, though Jerry thought it should have remained as a mental/physical testpiece.

According to a post Jerry made on supertopo, the original locations of the bolts were as follows: "One just above the ledge, the second could be clipped when you were standing on that little shelf about 2/3 of the way up." Sep 22, 2007