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Routes in Holderness Corner

Flesh For Lulu S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Holderness Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holderness Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holderness School Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hope For Movement S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
White Rhino S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Tom Armstrong 1989
Page Views: 204 total, 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 29, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

When i last did this route it still required trad gear but had 2 bolt as well... A lot can happen at Rumney in a few years so let me know if more bolts have been added...

This route is a second pitch for either the Holderness corner (5.8 trad) or Holderness Buttress (5.10 sport) routes that end on top of the Holderness buttress just right of Flesh For Lulu...

From the anchors of either climb head out right and wander a little up past 2 bolts toward a horizontal crack below a small right facing corner... the climbing on the first half of the route isn't too tough, the crux is at the top so save your strength... I placed gear in the horizontal and pumped my way up the challenging finish moves to the chain anchors... There are a few options of how to do the moves up top but it is steep and a little pumpy... It Isn't specific to the grade but I remember it being about middle range 5.10

Location

Starts at the top of the Holderness Buttress right of Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b)

Protection

2 bolts and trad gear to the chains... Bring a selection of cams and nuts...

Again if there have been bolts added please post and I'll update the info...

Photos

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Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
You can climb Horderness corner and the finish in one pitch and lower back to the base of the route with a 70m rope. Just extend the anchors with a 120cm sling and keep on climbing. There are a few gear options for the roof, but I would try to conserve either a #2 or #3 cam to use for this extension.

With a 60m rope you might make it back to the ground at the top of the staircase near the start of Idiot's Deluxe, but don't take my word for it. Oct 13, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.10
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.10
Beware, as you traverse out the roof there is a loose block with a good amount of chalk on it. It looks like it used to be a good hold but after a recent freeze-thaw cycle it has become a little hazard. I can't imagine anyone getting on this would be inexperienced enough to pull on it though. Mar 31, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
This extension is a lot of fun, great combined with The Holderness Corner. Apr 12, 2010
Ladd

  5.10c
Ladd    
  5.10c
This is a great finish to either the arete or the corner. Still requires a #2 and a .75 for gear for safety. Two bolts then gear to the top. Cool moves in the little roof section. Nov 6, 2009