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Routes in Holderness Corner

Flesh For Lulu S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Holderness Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holderness Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holderness School Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hope For Movement S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
White Rhino S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Ward Smith
Page Views: 1,592 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Climb atop the huge boulder left of Flesh for Lulu to reach the belay and start for this climb.

Climb the blunt arete on flat holds that pump out the heavy climber and make for hard moves for the short climber. Additionally, the short climber might get shut down on the reachy crux of this climb. A fun climb for the 5.12 climber but it feels very hard for the 5.11 climber (especially if short).

Location

Blunt arete that sits high above Flesh for Lulu on top of a boulder.

Protection

4 bolts to Anchor.

Photos

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Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11a
This route is like dunking a basketball (much easier if you're tall). Jun 11, 2016
Derek Jf
Northeast
 
Derek Jf   Northeast
 
Just Fun! Excellent moves in a small route. The grade may be subjective to the climber, found this to be a walk and fell quick if comparing to others in the same grade - tougher examples being Cereal Killer at A&D, Sally’s Alley and Barking Spiders at New Wave Jan 27, 2016
Tristan Baldwin
Amherst, NH
 
Tristan Baldwin   Amherst, NH
 
This climb is about as fun as 4 bolts can be. Also, you start on the block, then climb off the boulder, you feel like you are 30' off the deck even though you are making the second clip. As a result, it gives the sensation of being much longer than it really is. Jun 16, 2014
got on this thing a couple days ago on my annual long trip to rumney. i cleaned the upper section and ticked holds, thinking I would redpoint and scrub them. I ended up cleaning my gear as the rain began to come down and this was the last climb of my trip, so I hope the ticks arent too obvious and I hope someone gets on this thing while the top is still clean.

This part is a spoiler, so don't read if you don't want any info about the route: The crux seemed to be that big stopper move at the 3rd bolt...look high and right of the slopers at the bolt and youll find a little needle crimper...a little momentum move gets you out left. all the other cruxes have many feet/holds.


This thing is definitely a worthy line. the movement is excellent and the rock is perfect. bring a brush if its warm, those slopers get greasy! Aug 19, 2012
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
when i first got on this route i was wicked frustraited because it seemed that it was just deadpoint after deadpoint after deadpoint ....but when i got home and started thinking about it....i really want to get back on this route...its dynamic but a fun route....and plus since you start ontop of a boulder all the falls are clean even the first clip Jun 10, 2007