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Holderness School Corner
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.9 from 87
votes
Routes in Holderness Corner
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Flesh For Lulu S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Holderness Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Holderness Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Holderness School Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hope For Movement S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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White Rhino S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Chris Hassig 1975 |
| Page Views: | 3,402 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | lee hansche on May 17, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
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Description
Climb up easy ground to gain the crack...Then jam and STEM your way up the corner...making some use of the face hold will help...And again STEM....
Funny side note: When I was learning to trad climb, I would look at this intimidating steep corner often and say someday I'll get on that...But not today....
On one rainy day, for some reason, I was feeling bold and I said today's the day.... Long story short, I pissed myself (figuratively) all the way up the slick corner fearing for my life up to my elbows in the crack with muck dripping in to my arm pits....Looking for gear and realizing that the placements weren't all that straightforward....
I made it to the top, clipped in, and lowered with a big smile on my face covered in cuts and filth....
One slip and it could have been very different, but on that day I was happy to have lived life to its fullest....
The end....
Be safe and have fun....
Funny side note: When I was learning to trad climb, I would look at this intimidating steep corner often and say someday I'll get on that...But not today....
On one rainy day, for some reason, I was feeling bold and I said today's the day.... Long story short, I pissed myself (figuratively) all the way up the slick corner fearing for my life up to my elbows in the crack with muck dripping in to my arm pits....Looking for gear and realizing that the placements weren't all that straightforward....
I made it to the top, clipped in, and lowered with a big smile on my face covered in cuts and filth....
One slip and it could have been very different, but on that day I was happy to have lived life to its fullest....
The end....
Be safe and have fun....
Sandwich, NH
Seattle, WA
Make sure you save your number 2 cam for the top unless you are comfortable running out 20+ feet to the anchors with marginal to non-existent pro (I placed a .75 cam and a large nut, but they were both pretty bad). You're on easier ground, but still. Nov 4, 2009
Rumney, NH
Also, start with a good "Jesus Nut" before you even get to the crack by slotting a larger nut into one of the little crack structures 10-15 feet below the ledge where you start the main part of the climb. Once slotted through, let the end of the wire come out below where the rock is pinched shut, and clip. You will have an invincible multidirectional first placement. Jun 18, 2011
Northfield, VT
Boulder, CO
Somerville, MA