Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 2,675 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on May 15, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

First lead in a 32 degree downpour of sleet! Knowing Chris one would also assume he did it in bare feet!

This line ascends the cliff from the lowest point of the meadows, down in the pit between the slabs.
Interesting moves that might be hard for the grade start you out. Crimps and palming can be used in conjunction on the starting section, keep an open mind and this will go easier. Then you get up to the slab above and enjoy the best climbing in all of the Meadows Area.

Location

Start from the pit right of Lies and Propaganda.

Protection

7 Bolts to Anchors

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Photos

Right before crux sequence
Right before crux sequence
 1
View from the anchors. Realized when I got to the top my cell phone was in my pocket... oops. Oh well, might as well snap a pic!
View from the anchors. Realized when I got to…
 2
Noah Leading the bottom section
Noah Leading the bottom section
 0

11 Comments

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
fun route... the slab above is bolted in spicy fasion (which is nice but just be ready if you are not happy to use your feet)... May 16, 2007
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i really like this route the first vert face is fun and gaining the slab was a little intimidating but fun.....i cant wait to get back on and do it clean Oct 28, 2007
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
The combination of the balancey lower crux and the upper slab make for a very interesting route! Real good. May 15, 2008
BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
I agree it is like two completely different routes in one. I also thought the top slab portion is very runout and pretty scary if you aren't totally into slab. However, it was a fun climb and I'd do it again. The bottom section was a really fun puzzle to figure out. May 26, 2008
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.10c
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.10c
Very fun :] Jun 22, 2008
SmithBro
North Wilmot, New Hampshire
SmithBro   North Wilmot, New Hampshire
I did NOT do this barefoot, nor did I think it was run out at the top, until I pulled onto the slab and faced 30ft. of sleet-covered edges guarding the FA. Slow tense climbing, interspersed with wiping the accumulating sleet off the holds with wooden fingers, brought hard-fought success. Much thanks goes to Dr.Paul, who belayed, prodded, and cajoled me to the top while our wives stayed warm and dry in the van. This is what we do for fun? Perhaps not, but memorable no doubt. Mar 10, 2011
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
Hang dogged this one while figuring out the beta. Fun crux, clean fall. I can't wait to try for the redpoint on this.
Also, totally sketchy getting on top of the lip (in an awesome way)!
The top did feel a bit run out, but after climbing the bottom, it didn't bother me. Apr 4, 2012
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
Returned for the redpoint... much easier with the right beta! One of my favorite 10's at Rumney so far! (The other being Underdog, and yes, I realize there are better 10's there... I haven't climbed many yet is all) May 9, 2012
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
I had the good fortune of climbing with Chris for one day last summer. It was a great time until I ripped a flapper on Cavatappi. Anyway, he recounted the FA of this route. We had a good laugh while enjoying the sunny, warm weather.
Matt, congrats. Have your sight set on Expresso, Waimea, and Peer Pressure now. May 9, 2012
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
Really fun slab climbing at the top, but damn this one sure felt tough for the grade below the lip on the face. I made it through but damn.....i knew I must be missing something. Anyone know the route really well? I'd love some beta. May 3, 2013
Bobby Mustard
 
Bobby Mustard  
 
Super good route! The super chalked up sidepull rail is deceiving, and the spicy top section is not to be missed. If you love Bolt Line, you love Cold Turkey. Mar 22, 2015