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Routes in Bonsai

A Slice Of Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Anti-Social Behavior S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bombs Away T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bonsai Bulge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cavatelli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Centerpiece S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Five Steps T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Flake, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
India T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jugline S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kamikazee S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kundalini S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Masterpiece S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Peer Pressure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pretzel Logic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Climber T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Social Distortion S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Social Obligation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Social Outcast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Social Promotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
War and Peace S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Ted Hammond, 1989
Page Views: 15,041 total, 112/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

The unmistakable arete of Social Outcast can be seen from most points at or near Bonsai. Social offers steep climbing on mostly big holds.

Begin with a hard sequence to gain the first jug on the route. Boulder a few moves on huge holds and climb slightly up until you can rest at a no-hands stance.

From the rest, move right onto the arete proper. The big holds continue up the arete. Most people top out to the right and then walk left to clip the chains. The left, more direct, exit is harder and a bit less fun.

Social is a popular first 5.12. The moves are fun, easy to work, and the falls are clean.

Protection

6 bolts.
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.12a
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.12a
Believe the hype folks, this route is awesome. Oct 23, 2017
left a draw on this yesterday (second to last) 10/7 because it was getting dark and all of the holds were absolutely soaking wet. So if you were wondering why there is a draw there that is why and if you end up with a brand new BD draw, you're welcome. Oct 8, 2017
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Wow, that's a bolt statement Jamie! Sep 14, 2017
Jamie Collins
Vail, CO
  5.12a
Jamie Collins   Vail, CO
  5.12a
Finally got back on this thing after ~5 years away from Rumney, climbing elsewhere in the country.

Not trying to start a debate, but in my opinion, this is one of the best 5.12- sport pitches in the US. In comparison, I'd choose Social over other American classics at the grade:
-Chainsaw Massacre/Cell Block Six/Jesus Wept in the Red
-Mine Mine Mine or Fat Hand in Horseshoe Canyon
-Cardinal Sin/Easy Skankin'/Pretty Hate Machine in Rifle
-nothing steep enough at Smith to compare this to

Only one that comes close is PHM in Rifle, but I think I'd still prefer Social Outcast cause of the hero exit moves. Sep 12, 2017
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
I'm surprised this isn't a comment already:

For cleaning, the best way I've seen it done is to clean on lower, with climber clipped into the other end of the rope using a draw. Before unclipping the last (lowest) draw, lower the climber to the ledge just below the first clip. The climber can then unclip themselves from the other rope, unclip the first draw, walk down to the edge of the ledge, and then either downclimb the backside, or hop off (as the swing should be minimal form here). Hope this helps!

I also second TR/following as a bad idea, unless the direct finish (harder) is done. Aug 13, 2017
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
 
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
 
Which jug? The one that looks like a thumb pointing up? Aug 12, 2016
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
Seth Cohen   Concord, NH
The great jug just after the midway rest is really loose. I put an X on it today. It should be taken care of, either through gluing or removal, because avoiding that hold makes that sequence a little harder and less fun. Aug 11, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I agree, the direct (left) finish is best when seconding. Jul 8, 2015
KCraig
Lebanon, NH
KCraig   Lebanon, NH
Mark, while I agree that for many routes cleaning while seconding is very often the easiest (and sometimes safest) way to remove the draws, I don't think toproping this route should be recommended. If you take the right exit at the top (most common, I believe) a fall on top rope after unclipping the last draw may be quite ugly due to the location of the anchor (and the rope might even get stuck under the arĂȘte as it does when leading). TRing this particular route might not be the best idea, unless you know you need to take the "straight-up", alternate finish.

I, too, roll my eyes in disbelief at the number of times I have seen someone swing out to get raked to shreds by the large pine trees while trying to clean this or even Peer Pressure on the lower. Jul 8, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
"Careful cleaning this route. When my partner unclipped the bottom draw, I swung right into a tree. Use a ground anchor or clean it while climbing it on TR."

Yes, it always amazes me how many at Bonsai seemingly have no understanding of basic physics. Cleaning while seconding is the best way by far to do it. May 26, 2015
Careful cleaning this route. When my partner unclipped the bottom draw, I swung right into a tree. Use a ground anchor or clean it while climbing it on TR. May 23, 2015
Restless Outcast Direct? Really? It's the same route, just skipping a rest and exiting on the original exit. Still easy 12. May 12, 2015
Sigg  
I was on this last week (10/18/14) and the nice pocket just before the 4th bolt was a bit loose. Not sure if its always been like this. Super fun climb though! Oct 27, 2014
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
Seth Cohen   Concord, NH
If you want an extra little challenge, try Restless Outcast Direct. Don't climb into the sit-down rest in the middle, and do the left-hand direct finish. Aug 13, 2014
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
  5.12a
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
  5.12a
As popular as this is, I thought it was definitely overrated. The climbing is thuggy but not in an enjoyable way and there's so much chalk it's ridiculous. I can see it being a good project with the crux at the top and whatnot, but there are better .12a routes to be found for sure. Sep 16, 2013
James Otey
NH
  5.12a
James Otey   NH
  5.12a
The right hand finish is the established one Jul 19, 2011
Mike Phillips
Pittsburgh
 
Mike Phillips   Pittsburgh
 
Pretty good overall. Thought the finish to the anchors was a little weird but there probably isn't a better way for it to finish. The last bolt before the anchors can be annoying because the draw can be directly over the hold you want to be using. Jul 18, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.12a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.12a/b
Left hand finish is the original (I had asked Ted); less secure and harder. Think finger locks and small footholds (a bit strange after all that steep climbing!). For me, definitely 12a/b. Aug 28, 2010
James Otey
NH
  5.12a
James Otey   NH
  5.12a
If you're wicked gassed at the top look out right for a fatty heelhook- makes the move to the lip way more manageable Oct 12, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The first bolt has been replaced with a nice 1/2 inch glue-in. Jun 3, 2008
Pavel Muravyev
5.12a/b
Pavel Muravyev  
5.12a/b
When I climbed the topout on this route (also my first lead 5.12 outside) I used a heelhook out right in addition to the pinch that you were talking about - it helps stabilize going for the last hold. Overall - the route is a classic!

P.S. People over 6' 0" - can reach the first jug from the ground Jul 28, 2007
Ladd

  5.12a
Ladd    
  5.12a
No fear, the top out holds out right are huge, although the pinch for you left hand for the setup for the move is exactly where the in-place draw hangs (a little annoying, but more importantly it is painful if you forget to move your hand and hang at that draw) May 4, 2007