Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: John Mallery, 1993
Page Views: 23,295 total, 171/month
Shared By: Kayte Knower on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


315 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A stunning line up a prominent black streak, Waimea is an absolute classic. Sustained, creative moves on all types of holds get harder and pumpier as you near the top, and culminate with a technical crux on water carved grooves. Take your pick between balancy moves on tiny crimps and side pulls, or longer reaches between better holds.

The home of giant ice pillars in the winter, Waimea is sometimes wet into mid summer. Luckily, the route has such a fan base that any chap in the parking lot can tell you whether or not the crux is dry.

Location

Walk across talus past the central Waimea wall and around the corner. Waimea the route is right of the stuning black arete of Livin' Astro. The start of Waimea is recognizable by big incut wafer flakes.

Protection

Bolts.
Graham O.
  5.10c
Graham O.  
  5.10c
Awesome climb, it's hard to believe that there could be this many classics at one crag. Jul 31, 2016
Brunt Tornton
NH
  5.10c
Brunt Tornton   NH
  5.10c
Agreed neoh. Other classics at this grade at rumney such as centerpiece and pp feel more difficult. But the movement on this one is tough to beat. Sep 16, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10c/d
S. Neoh  
  5.10c/d
No doubt this is a very good route with a solid 3 stars from me. IMHO, Centerpiece, at a slightly sandbag grade of 10d, is better. Even better would be climbing Peer Pressure whole, without the rest about halfway up. Aug 12, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10d
Absolutely outstanding route. Best 5.10 that I've done at Rumney. In fact, it ranks up there with the best 10's at any place I have ever climbed. Though it is a bit short, if you link into 'All the Way-A' it makes for a decently long 5.10. Either way, the movement and rock quality are stellar. This is a very reasonable lead for those looking to break into 5.10+. Aug 12, 2010
hasan Adil
portland,me
hasan Adil   portland,me
The route looks amazing. Went to rumney specially to give it a go but was super wet while routes on left and right were dry. I must go there again for it :D Apr 5, 2010
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.10d
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.10d
I wouldn't say the route has gotten easier at all. The route up to the crux may only feel 10b, but the couple crux moves, in my opinion, still feel 10d. And regarding the size of the holds--If anything, they're only becoming more polished from sticky rubber and roadrunner feet, and not bigger from erosion. Aug 18, 2009
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Mike: Like many routes, beta can make it feel a grade or two easier. Jakob's got this route down to the T. He's also a MUCH better, stronger climber than before... even if he won't let himself think that. :) Aug 13, 2009
James Otey
NH
  5.10d
James Otey   NH
  5.10d
Oh rumors... It would take hundreds of years for water to make an appreciable, even noticeable difference. A hold broke last year, but it feels about the same as it always has. Aug 12, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i heard rumor that this route's holds are getting bigger from erosion.... same rumor suggested that it might be up for a downgrade maybe even to a 10b? what do people have to say about this? Aug 12, 2009
Alli
New York, NY
Alli   New York, NY
My first outdoor lead! Waimea has a special place in my heart. Jul 19, 2009