Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: John Mallery, 1993
Page Views: 25,516 total · 170/month
Shared By: Kayte Knower on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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379 Opinions

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Description

A stunning line up a prominent black streak, Waimea is an absolute classic. Sustained, creative moves on all types of holds get harder and pumpier as you near the top, and culminate with a technical crux on water carved grooves. Take your pick between balancy moves on tiny crimps and side pulls, or longer reaches between better holds.

The home of giant ice pillars in the winter, Waimea is sometimes wet into mid summer. Luckily, the route has such a fan base that any chap in the parking lot can tell you whether or not the crux is dry.

Location

Walk across talus past the central Waimea wall and around the corner. Waimea the route is right of the stuning black arete of Livin' Astro. The start of Waimea is recognizable by big incut wafer flakes.

Protection

Bolts.
Alli
New York, NY
Alli   New York, NY
My first outdoor lead! Waimea has a special place in my heart. Jul 19, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i heard rumor that this route's holds are getting bigger from erosion.... same rumor suggested that it might be up for a downgrade maybe even to a 10b? what do people have to say about this? Aug 12, 2009
James Otey
  5.10d
James Otey  
  5.10d
Oh rumors... It would take hundreds of years for water to make an appreciable, even noticeable difference. A hold broke last year, but it feels about the same as it always has. Aug 12, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Mike: Like many routes, beta can make it feel a grade or two easier. Jakob's got this route down to the T. He's also a MUCH better, stronger climber than before... even if he won't let himself think that. :) Aug 13, 2009
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.10d
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.10d
I wouldn't say the route has gotten easier at all. The route up to the crux may only feel 10b, but the couple crux moves, in my opinion, still feel 10d. And regarding the size of the holds--If anything, they're only becoming more polished from sticky rubber and roadrunner feet, and not bigger from erosion. Aug 18, 2009
hasan Adil
portland,me
hasan Adil   portland,me
The route looks amazing. Went to rumney specially to give it a go but was super wet while routes on left and right were dry. I must go there again for it :D Apr 5, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10d
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10d
Absolutely outstanding route. Best 5.10 that I've done at Rumney. In fact, it ranks up there with the best 10's at any place I have ever climbed. Though it is a bit short, if you link into 'All the Way-A' it makes for a decently long 5.10. Either way, the movement and rock quality are stellar. This is a very reasonable lead for those looking to break into 5.10+. Aug 12, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.10c/d
S. Neoh  
  5.10c/d
No doubt this is a very good route with a solid 3 stars from me. IMHO, Centerpiece, at a slightly sandbag grade of 10d, is better. Even better would be climbing Peer Pressure whole, without the rest about halfway up. Aug 12, 2010
Harrison Harb
Portland
  5.10c
Harrison Harb   Portland
  5.10c
Agreed neoh. Other classics at this grade at rumney such as centerpiece and pp feel more difficult. But the movement on this one is tough to beat. Sep 16, 2013
Graham O.
  5.10d
Graham O.  
  5.10d
Awesome climb, it's hard to believe that there could be this many classics at one crag. Jul 31, 2016