Type: Sport
FA: Steve Burgerella, 1995
Page Views: 6,705 total · 45/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Just right of Coral Sea, Cote d'Azure climbs the center of the steep wall on the right side of the raised ledge. Boulder up and clip the first two bolts and then come back down to the ledge to rest.

The crux of the climb involves weird moves up a steep wall. A V8ish boulder problem brings you to the lip. The draw at the lip is hard to clip; many people forego it on redpoint. Rock over onto a mini hanging slab and rest up for the headwall. From here, amazing 5.12a climbing continues to the anchors. This upper part of Cote d'Azure has been called the best 5.12 at Rumney. Unfortunately for some, this climbing is guarded by the tough, bouldery climbing on the lower wall.

It is somewhat understandable, though not forgivable, that a rock was glued on in order to "enhance" one of the crux holds. This made the route a more crowd pleasing 5.12d. However, the climb was quickly returned to its natural state and now rarely gets sent.
(Edit - The enhancement was a random rock glued on to a flat section, not on another hold. It was done by the original bolter, and not by Steve, who later freed the route without using it. The rock was then removed. As more people climb the grade, it is being climbed more frequently now.)

Protection

Bolts
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
This route deserves a lot more ascents. It has great moves that tax your brains and brawn. I think it spanks a lot of people though. It may be closer to 13c now than originally, as I think a hold changed some. Many strong climbers find it stiff. As with many Rumney climbs, finely tuned beta makes a difference. Jun 29, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
one of the best lines on the cliff!!! the upper half is amazing!!! Aug 31, 2011
James Otey
  5.13b
James Otey  
  5.13b
This and Thin Man are the best routes I've climbed at Rumney Nov 3, 2011
FelixBM  
RIP
J'ai cassé la reglette clée à la troisième clip. La difficulté du parcours en a prix un coups. Il y a eu une ascention en moulinette, mais pas à que je sache en libre.
Désolé Jun 12, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Has this been climbed free since the latest hold change? Mar 11, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
To the best of my knowledge Zeb Engberg sent it after the hold broke and it was thought to be about 13d...
it has since been restored, the broken hold replaced and i hear it came out perfectly and you cant see anything was done... Mar 11, 2013
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
  5.13b
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
  5.13b
For A while I was thinking this was a step up from other .13b's I had done. The boulder problem at the start is just HARD, with a couple of moves you could easily fall off of. After getting on it today in crisp to almost too cold of conditions, the boulder problem felt significantly easier because of one friction dependent hold. I could still see it getting the b/ c grade, but not as convinced. Moral of the story, crisp temps can help a lot on this one! Oct 25, 2013