Avg: 3.7 from 22 votes
|FA:||Steve Burgerella, 1995|
|Page Views:||8,118 total · 45/month|
|Shared By:||Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
The crux of the climb involves weird moves up a steep wall. A V8ish boulder problem brings you to the lip. The draw at the lip is hard to clip; many people forego it on redpoint. Rock over onto a mini hanging slab and rest up for the headwall. From here, amazing 5.12a climbing continues to the anchors. This upper part of Cote d'Azure has been called the best 5.12 at Rumney. Unfortunately for some, this climbing is guarded by the tough, bouldery climbing on the lower wall.
It is somewhat understandable, though not forgivable, that a rock was glued on in order to "enhance" one of the crux holds. This made the route a more crowd pleasing 5.12d. However, the climb was quickly returned to its natural state and now rarely gets sent.
(Edit - The enhancement was a random rock glued on to a flat section, not on another hold. It was done by the original bolter, and not by Steve, who later freed the route without using it. The rock was then removed. As more people climb the grade, it is being climbed more frequently now.)