Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 10,017 total · 71/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 13, 2007 with updates from Justin Feng
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The Fly is two bolts long and then the route ends on the E-Ticket ledge about twenty five feet up the wall. There is an undone project (partially) bolted to the left called Super Fly. To call this climb a route is a stretch, since there is probably fifteen feet of actual climbing on it. The first holds are bad rounded crimps, followed by a long thin sidepull, followed by a sloper that is used to clip the second bolt.

This route has been bouldered.

I have not ever been on this route, just thought it warranted a spot in the database, if anyone has climbed this route, speak up, tell us about it, let's update the description.

Location

Obvious Super-Hard short face in the middle of Waimea cliff

Protection

Two Bolts to Anchors on E-ticket Ledge. Stick clip and pull hard. This route has been both bouldered with pads as protection and toproped.

Photos

Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Tony Lamiche, 3rd ascent of The Fly
youtube.com/watch?v=nbhDyfv…

Kevin Jorgeson sending The Fly at Nor'Easter '08
youtube.com/watch?v=Mft3k_f…
Be sure to watch it in High Quality!! May 18, 2009
M Sprague
New England
  5.14c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.14c
I bolted this thing as an open project. I was looking for something extreme that I still thought would go and I could work on. At the time, the idea of piling huge stacks of pads under a problem was not as popular as it is now and because of it's steepness and size of the holds I couldn't really get in, clean and work the moves on TR without at least one directional. My friends thought I was nuts and that nobody would be able to climb it. It was really cool when Dave, Gomez and the others were able to get it, though I still think Dave's beta was whacked. I linked from the long side pull to the top, but was never able to get the dyno move from the start crimps up to the gaston, even after training to do 5 pullups with a heavy pack off them. It's sick to generate that much power and precision off those holds. Apr 15, 2010
Fan Yang
Boston, MA
Fan Yang   Boston, MA
hmm...downgrading something you can't link the moves on. classic! Dec 13, 2011
M Sprague
New England
  5.14c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.14c
If you are referring to my grade, that was more based on people who have done the route since Graham and seemed to think it was a little shy of full 14d. If I remember right, Luke (Gomez-) called it V13 when I asked him, which is very approximately 14c. I also worked on it and linked enough to believe Dave had bad beta for the top half when he climbed and graded it (not unusual for him at the time), which I linked and he thought was hard. With my climbing ability, nothing I linked should have felt hard for him with the right beta, lol.

See climbing.com/news/hotflashe…

So add your estimate if you think you are more qualified. That is why we have consensus grades.

archived NEB mention of the FA archive.newenglandboulderin… Dec 13, 2011
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
Mike Foley sends The Fly

Kevin Jorgeson's ropeless ascent of The Fly:
player.vimeo.com/video/4717764 Nov 16, 2015
Kevin Wang
Brooklyn, NY
Kevin Wang   Brooklyn, NY
Bryce Viola TR ascent. Watched it so many times. So cool.
youtube.com/watch?v=U0xFud9… Mar 6, 2018