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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 9,297 total, 72/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 13, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The Fly is two bolts long and then the route ends on the E-Ticket ledge about twenty five feet up the wall. There is an undone project (partially) bolted to the left called Super Fly. To call this climb a route is a stretch, since there is probably fifteen feet of actual climbing on it. The first holds are bad rounded crimps, followed by a long thin sidepull, followed by a sloper that is used to clip the second bolt.

This route has been bouldered.

I have not ever been on this route, just thought it warranted a spot in the database, if anyone has climbed this route, speak up, tell us about it, let's update the description.

Location

Obvious Super-Hard short face in the middle of Waimea cliff

Protection

Two Bolts to Anchors on E-ticket Ledge. Stick clip and pull hard. This route has been both bouldered and sport led.

Photos

Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
Mike Foley sends The Fly

Kevin Jorgeson's ropeless ascent of The Fly:
player.vimeo.com/video/4717764 Nov 16, 2015
M Sprague
New England
  5.14c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.14c
If you are referring to my grade, that was more based on people who have done the route since Graham and seemed to think it was a little shy of full 14d. If I remember right, Luke (Gomez-) called it V13 when I asked him, which is very approximately 14c. I also worked on it and linked enough to believe Dave had bad beta for the top half when he climbed and graded it (not unusual for him at the time), which I linked and he thought was hard. With my climbing ability, nothing I linked should have felt hard for him with the right beta, lol.

See climbing.com/news/hotflashe…

So add your estimate if you think you are more qualified. That is why we have consensus grades.

archived NEB mention of the FA archive.newenglandboulderin… Dec 13, 2011
FY
Boston, MA
FY   Boston, MA
hmm...downgrading something you can't link the moves on. classic! Dec 13, 2011
M Sprague
New England
  5.14c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.14c
I bolted this thing as an open project. I was looking for something extreme that I still thought would go and I could work on. At the time, the idea of piling huge stacks of pads under a problem was not as popular as it is now and because of it's steepness and size of the holds I couldn't really get in, clean and work the moves on TR without at least one directional. My friends thought I was nuts and that nobody would be able to climb it. It was really cool when Dave, Gomez and the others were able to get it, though I still think Dave's beta was whacked. I linked from the long side pull to the top, but was never able to get the dyno move from the start crimps up to the gaston, even after training to do 5 pullups with a heavy pack off them. It's sick to generate that much power and precision off those holds. Apr 15, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Tony Lamiche, 3rd ascent of The Fly
youtube.com/watch?v=nbhDyfv…

Kevin Jorgeson sending The Fly at Nor'Easter '08
youtube.com/watch?v=Mft3k_f…
Be sure to watch it in High Quality!! May 18, 2009