Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: John Mallery, 1990
Page Views: 11,591 total · 56/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 5, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Aquarius is one of the definitive lines of Rumney, as it climbs up a vertical quartz streak. Expect fingery technical moves and weight-on-your feet climbing, a welcome change from the arm burning routes nearby.

The initial steep bulge holds the hardest moves on the route (remember to stem) and gives way to a no hands rest on a ledge. From this rest, it is helpful to climb up and left along jugs to clip the high bolt. Next, downclimb back to the ledge. This way, you will have a toprope through the thin, crimpy, face crux.

Once the face crux is passed, the dreaded topout looms above. Though intimidating, it is easy to clip the anchor chain if you lever up from the good holds below. This way, your thrutching and wheezing can be accomlished with toprope protection. Don't grab the chains, as those nearby will verbally assault you if you do. Top out the cliff, like God herself intended.


Aquarius is the route between Techno and Whip Tide. Look for the quartz. You can't miss it.


11 Bolts