Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Mallery, 1990
Page Views: 8,489 total, 63/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 5, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Aquarius is one of the definitive lines of Rumney, as it climbs up a vertical quartz streak. Expect fingery technical moves and weight-on-your feet climbing, a welcome change from the arm burning routes nearby.

The initial steep bulge holds the hardest moves on the route (remember to stem) and gives way to a no hands rest on a ledge. From this rest, it is helpful to climb up and left along jugs to clip the high bolt. Next, downclimb back to the ledge. This way, you will have a toprope through the thin, crimpy, face crux.

Once the face crux is passed, the dreaded topout looms above. Though intimidating, it is easy to clip the anchor chain if you lever up from the good holds below. This way, your thrutching and wheezing can be accomlished with toprope protection. Don't grab the chains, as those nearby will verbally assault you if you do. Top out the cliff, like God herself intended.

Location

Aquarius is the route between Techno and Whip Tide. Look for the quartz. You can't miss it.

Protection

11 Bolts
Phil Schuld
Holderness, NH
 
Phil Schuld   Holderness, NH
 
At 5'8", clipping one of the chains from the huge jugs before the mantle wasn't all that difficult. I suppose if you're shorter, having the anchor extended to allow for a lower clip (as it is currently) might give you some peace of mind but falling there without it probably wouldn't be consequential. Though I've yet to test that. May 21, 2017
Graham O.  
 
Phenomenal climb. It's a little scary but the falls are clean as can be. The .12 at Rumney, in my opinion. Aug 27, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
could have been just a regular draw, i just remember something easy to clip... I don't mind that top out either but it would be a lot harder if i didn't utilize a hand jam ;) May 1, 2015
M Sprague
New England
  5.12c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12c
You just swing in space, no? If you made it up through the rest of it, it shouldn't be bad, just a little pumpy. To me the last move on the face was always scarier since I had to pop for it and felt like I was going to slap into the slab. I always hated the long sling off the anchors of Giantman, especially since the big tree fell down and there was no longer any chance of hitting it even if your belayer let it run. May 1, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
used to be a long draw hanging that made the clip ok... could add one? May 1, 2015
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
  5.12d
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
  5.12d
Clipping the chains from the huge undercling is a long reach for me at 6'1"; not sure if this will work for shorter folks... I guess they just do the heinous mantle facing a huge butt-first whipper? Apr 30, 2015
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
Seth Cohen   Concord, NH
This route is a joy. It makes you work until the very last inch of the climb. Was so excited for the unexpected send yesterday! Aug 7, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
just sent this one today... cant say enough good stuff about this climb... just do it, then we'll talk...

ok ill say one thing... the crimpy technical climbing in the middle of the route is sooooo fun... but if you like crimpy boulder problems or desperate mantels the beginning and end of the route are nice too... Oct 3, 2007