Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Mallery, 1990
Page Views: 9,033 total · 61/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 5, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Aquarius is one of the definitive lines of Rumney, as it climbs up a vertical quartz streak. Expect fingery technical moves and weight-on-your feet climbing, a welcome change from the arm burning routes nearby.

The initial steep bulge holds the hardest moves on the route (remember to stem) and gives way to a no hands rest on a ledge. From this rest, it is helpful to climb up and left along jugs to clip the high bolt. Next, downclimb back to the ledge. This way, you will have a toprope through the thin, crimpy, face crux.

Once the face crux is passed, the dreaded topout looms above. Though intimidating, it is easy to clip the anchor chain if you lever up from the good holds below. This way, your thrutching and wheezing can be accomlished with toprope protection. Don't grab the chains, as those nearby will verbally assault you if you do. Top out the cliff, like God herself intended.

Location

Aquarius is the route between Techno and Whip Tide. Look for the quartz. You can't miss it.

Protection

11 Bolts
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
just sent this one today... cant say enough good stuff about this climb... just do it, then we'll talk...

ok ill say one thing... the crimpy technical climbing in the middle of the route is sooooo fun... but if you like crimpy boulder problems or desperate mantels the beginning and end of the route are nice too... Oct 3, 2007
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
Seth Cohen   Concord, NH
This route is a joy. It makes you work until the very last inch of the climb. Was so excited for the unexpected send yesterday! Aug 7, 2013
Rich Brereton
Pownal, ME
  5.12d
Rich Brereton   Pownal, ME
  5.12d
Clipping the chains from the huge undercling is a long reach for me at 6'1"; not sure if this will work for shorter folks... I guess they just do the heinous mantle facing a huge butt-first whipper? Apr 30, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
used to be a long draw hanging that made the clip ok... could add one? May 1, 2015
M Sprague
New England
  5.12c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12c
You just swing in space, no? If you made it up through the rest of it, it shouldn't be bad, just a little pumpy. To me the last move on the face was always scarier since I had to pop for it and felt like I was going to slap into the slab. I always hated the long sling off the anchors of Giantman, especially since the big tree fell down and there was no longer any chance of hitting it even if your belayer let it run. May 1, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
could have been just a regular draw, i just remember something easy to clip... I don't mind that top out either but it would be a lot harder if i didn't utilize a hand jam ;) May 1, 2015
Phil Salahari
Holderness, NH
 
Phil Salahari   Holderness, NH
 
At 5'8", clipping one of the chains from the huge jugs before the mantle wasn't all that difficult. I suppose if you're shorter, having the anchor extended to allow for a lower clip (as it is currently) might give you some peace of mind but falling there without it probably wouldn't be consequential. Though I've yet to test that. May 21, 2017