Type: Sport
FA: Dave Graham 1999
Page Views: 16,632 total · 126/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Feb 6, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I have not sent this route; however, I have spent a disproportionate amount of time falling off this route...

China Beach is the ultimate sport climb and is the standard against which all other sport climbs should be judged. It climbs up the center of one of the steepest walls in Rumney and it offers no rests after the first bolt. It contains hard moves, but not so hard that it could be considered a "boulderer's route," like so many other hard routes at Rumney. It requires a top level of both power and endurance for the send. It's also solid in its grade, having held it's rating for around ten years now, unlike Livin' Astro on its right, which has heard some down-grading mumbles. No one is in line to downgrade the Beach, that's for sure.

China Beach begins with a few moves to get established before the hanging corner. This corner overhangs at about 45 degrees and forces the climber into desperate, insecure layback moves, similar to moves you might find on a trad route. You are more likely to fall due to a foot skating than from strength failure. Yet, it's still taxing. This sections ends at a horizontal about two-thirds of the way up. Dan Nguyen initially redpointed this section at about 13b or c.

The horizontal doesn't offer much in the way of rest, and the next section is the crux which consists of long moves to crimps and difficult foot moves. To call this crux V8 is to discount the previous climbing up the corner. Off the dog, it feels V8ish, but on redpoint it feels unratable. Pumpy, big moves follow up the headwall and culminate in a strenuous iron-cross move left to a pretty big hold. Matching the hold is the redpoint crux, and many a valiant attempt has ended here.

China Beach has captivated climbers for many years and it is common to see people climbing on it just for the fun of it. Big falls are expected. A redpoint to the break is a worthy objective as well. Any time spent climbing on the Beach is time spent communing with a perfect, pure, hard, inspiring medium.

Protection

8 Bolts. Fixed draws. No kneepad required.
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.14b
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.14b
Check out the video of Brian Kim's send of China Beach. Feb 6, 2008
Great video. Mar 13, 2009
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
The FA-ist, Mr. Graham himself. Has a few sections omitted from the Dosage II Rumney segment. (China Beach starts at 2:00):




vimeo.com/28602948 Oct 8, 2012
AWESOME route description!! May 21, 2014
vimeo.com/137101036 Aug 24, 2015
Nice videos, to all of you! Now, there is a line of bolts up a blank face left and around the corner from Jaws. Anybody know anything about this? Aug 26, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The line just left of Jaws is Bill Clinton, an open project. I don't know if all the moves have ever been freed through the bulge (super burly), but the rest goes. Aug 26, 2016
Joe M.    
I thought I saw something on FB or instagram from Mike Foley saying that he had finally done all the moves. Of course, he has now moved out west, so it may still be a project for a while... Aug 26, 2016
Joe M.    
From 18 weeks ago:

"fikemoley Had our first sport climbing day of the season! I managed to complete all of the moves on the #billclinton project. This thing is definitely a step up in difficulty from its neighbors... instagram.com/p/BEZUueirxhd/ Aug 26, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Great news! I always wondered if that section would really go. Aug 26, 2016
A step up in difficulty from it's neighbors? Wow. Potential 9b at Rumney?! Aug 26, 2016
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
Currently working this climb and I can say it lives up to the hype. The best sport climb I have ever laid my hands on. It's perfect - incredibly sustained, no rests, sequential movement, hard clips, and run outs...this climb will put hair on your chest, and probably other parts of your body.

For me, the break down of the climb is solid 13b to the break then another 13b from there. To the break is muscly, cramped, lieback crack climbing. After the break is characterized by powerful, long, perfectly sequential face climbing on good holds. The bottom is probably easier for short people, but the top is easier for tall people, so it evens out. Jul 9, 2018
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
I fitted this with Climb Tech permas (3 cable and 2 chain draws, chain draws for the big fall sections) in July 2018, except for the first and last bolts (they don't see big falls and are easier to replace if needed) Aug 13, 2018