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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: John Mallery and Wayne Burleson, 1993
Page Views: 4,851 total, 36/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 29, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

If you want to experience Rumney at it's best (or maybe worst?), then look no further than Muscle Beach. The climb starts easily enough, passing a roof. After the roof, the weirdness starts. Expect terrible footholds, terrible hand holds, and a strange feeling that you are still on the wall despite the fact that you really aren't pulling on anything. Then you may realize that you have engaged muscles you never knew you had just to stay on the wall. Then you need to clip, but you realize how futile this proposition really is. Then you grab the draw and/or fall.

Like many other Rumney routes, Muscle Beach does yield once you figure out the contortions, subtleties, and general weirdness required. When you send, you are amazed at how hard it used to feel. That left kneepad didn't hurt though, as you ended up improvising that desperation kneebar at the top. You would have fallen otherwise, but you didn't. You sent. You must be psyched.

Location

Muscle Beach starts to the right of Butt Bongo and is the right route that starts off the raised ledge on the left side of Waimea.

Protection

Bolts. Muscle Beach is one of the few routes at Rumney for which a left (rather than right) kneepad is useful.

Photos

Ryan Web  
 
Didn't see a bolted anchor at the top but did find the tree. Was I missing the bolted anchor? If not, why no bolted anchor? Just curious Oct 17, 2015
The 5th and 7th bolts on Muscle Beach have been replaced with SS Fixe glue ins. Thanks to the RCA retro bolting initiative. Please support the Rumney Climbers Association, climbrumney.com/





Apr 4, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
such an interesting route with cool moves all the way to the anchor!!!!! i wasnt well rested for my red point so it was an epic battle but i milked the kneebars and they saved me!

just as physical as it is technical if that sounds like fun to you DO THIS ROUTE! Sep 13, 2011
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
This is an excellent description and one of the best I have read on mp. Jan 28, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Tom sending Muscle Beach:


youtube.com/watch?v=IumexsK… Jan 22, 2011
Alli
New York, NY
Alli   New York, NY
Thanks Doug! Jun 20, 2009
People were on it last weekend so my guess is that you are all set Alli. Jun 16, 2009
Alli
New York, NY
Alli   New York, NY
Hola - was just wondering, has anything changed since the posts above re Muscle Beach? Jun 10, 2009
M Sprague
New England
  5.13a/b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13a/b
It will have to be replaced with a glue in. I'll let Ward know and maybe he can do it, as my drill is stashed somewhere and I'm not planning on being at Rumney with the free time for a few weeks, unless the bugs get hideous elsewhere. Those bolts Mallory used are usually tough to snap and require a lot of beating back and forth to break before you can tap the remains back in the hole and patch it. Don't tap it in before snapping it off, or it may bottom out and be hard to do a nice patch job May 26, 2009
The next to the last bolt is missing the nut and hanger. Apparently the thread is stripped closest to the rock. Does anyone know how to re-tap the thread or does it have to be cut and a new one put in?

I'm psyched for a redpoint attempt and sure there are others as well. May 26, 2009