Type: Sport
FA: John Mallery and Wayne Burleson, 1993
Page Views: 7,544 total · 40/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 29, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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If you want to experience Rumney at it's best (or maybe worst?), then look no further than Muscle Beach. The climb starts easily enough, passing a roof. After the roof, the weirdness starts. Expect terrible footholds, terrible hand holds, and a strange feeling that you are still on the wall despite the fact that you really aren't pulling on anything. Then you may realize that you have engaged muscles you never knew you had just to stay on the wall. Then you need to clip, but you realize how futile this proposition really is. Then you grab the draw and/or fall.

Like many other Rumney routes, Muscle Beach does yield once you figure out the contortions, subtleties, and general weirdness required. When you send, you are amazed at how hard it used to feel. That left kneepad didn't hurt though, as you ended up improvising that desperation kneebar at the top. You would have fallen otherwise, but you didn't. You sent. You must be psyched.


Muscle Beach starts to the right of Butt Bongo and is the right route that starts off the raised ledge on the left side of Waimea.


Bolts. Muscle Beach is one of the few routes at Rumney for which a left (rather than right) kneepad is useful.