Type: Sport
FA: John Mallery and Wayne Burleson, 1993
Page Views: 5,343 total · 36/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 29, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

If you want to experience Rumney at it's best (or maybe worst?), then look no further than Muscle Beach. The climb starts easily enough, passing a roof. After the roof, the weirdness starts. Expect terrible footholds, terrible hand holds, and a strange feeling that you are still on the wall despite the fact that you really aren't pulling on anything. Then you may realize that you have engaged muscles you never knew you had just to stay on the wall. Then you need to clip, but you realize how futile this proposition really is. Then you grab the draw and/or fall.

Like many other Rumney routes, Muscle Beach does yield once you figure out the contortions, subtleties, and general weirdness required. When you send, you are amazed at how hard it used to feel. That left kneepad didn't hurt though, as you ended up improvising that desperation kneebar at the top. You would have fallen otherwise, but you didn't. You sent. You must be psyched.

Location

Muscle Beach starts to the right of Butt Bongo and is the right route that starts off the raised ledge on the left side of Waimea.

Protection

Bolts. Muscle Beach is one of the few routes at Rumney for which a left (rather than right) kneepad is useful.

Photos

The next to the last bolt is missing the nut and hanger. Apparently the thread is stripped closest to the rock. Does anyone know how to re-tap the thread or does it have to be cut and a new one put in?

I'm psyched for a redpoint attempt and sure there are others as well. May 26, 2009
M Sprague
New England
  5.13a/b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13a/b
It will have to be replaced with a glue in. I'll let Ward know and maybe he can do it, as my drill is stashed somewhere and I'm not planning on being at Rumney with the free time for a few weeks, unless the bugs get hideous elsewhere. Those bolts Mallory used are usually tough to snap and require a lot of beating back and forth to break before you can tap the remains back in the hole and patch it. Don't tap it in before snapping it off, or it may bottom out and be hard to do a nice patch job May 26, 2009
Alli
New York, NY
Alli   New York, NY
Hola - was just wondering, has anything changed since the posts above re Muscle Beach? Jun 10, 2009
People were on it last weekend so my guess is that you are all set Alli. Jun 16, 2009
Alli
New York, NY
Alli   New York, NY
Thanks Doug! Jun 20, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13a
Tom sending Muscle Beach:


youtube.com/watch?v=IumexsK… Jan 22, 2011
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
This is an excellent description and one of the best I have read on mp. Jan 28, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
such an interesting route with cool moves all the way to the anchor!!!!! i wasnt well rested for my red point so it was an epic battle but i milked the kneebars and they saved me!

just as physical as it is technical if that sounds like fun to you DO THIS ROUTE! Sep 13, 2011
The 5th and 7th bolts on Muscle Beach have been replaced with SS Fixe glue ins. Thanks to the RCA retro bolting initiative. Please support the Rumney Climbers Association, climbrumney.com/





Apr 4, 2014
Ryan Web  
 
Didn't see a bolted anchor at the top but did find the tree. Was I missing the bolted anchor? If not, why no bolted anchor? Just curious Oct 17, 2015