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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ward Smith, April, 1997
Page Views: 5,002 total, 37/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The crux of Coral Sea is like climbing a refrigerator. It involves a bear hug sequence in which both hands use side-pull slopers with the friction and position of the edges of your fridge.

Once established over the roof, the flat sidepulls continue for many more moves. After 15 feet or so, a crimp offers a chance to actually grab onto something. Despite its small nature, it feels like a jug. The climbing remains pumpy to the end.

This is perhaps one of the most friction dependant climbs on the wall. Flat slopers, underclings, and weird foot sequences set Coral Sea apart as a unique classic.

Location

Climb up the ladder if it is there. Otherwise, climb the start of Techno then angle right to the big E-Ticket ledge. Four climbs start from tis raised ledge. Coral is the second route from the right.

Protection

8 Bolts--Many chose to stick clip the second bolt. This is the bolt way up over the lip.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Will- your comment makes sense.
Mark- I don't play that game haha. But for real, has it gone bare foot. That would be crazy. Jul 12, 2017
M Sprague
New England
  5.13b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13b
Bare feet, Lee Jul 10, 2017
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.13b
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.13b
I will say that I think the crux is harder for tall people. Getting your feet under you after pulling the first roof seems like it would require significantly more compression effort. Could be harder than 13b in that case. Jul 10, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Thanks for chiming in. I do great with slopers but not as well with hard compression. That is my issue I think. Such a fantastic route though. well worth flailing on until i'm ready. Jul 10, 2017
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.13b
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.13b
Lee, I did this one recently, and though it fits my sloper-loving style, I don't thinks it's 13c in great conditions. Tim D and Levy both said it feels 13c to them, though. I think some Rumney routes are suffering from grade inflation so it's good to have a few stiff climbs like this and Cote to offset it ;-). Jul 10, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I've been working on this thing a bit lately and I guess I need to geek out for a sec. I had heard rumor of a foothold breaking years back which according to my source (Jay Knower? I forget.) made the crux compression section considerably more challenging. I figured I'd bring it up since I am personally finding this one to be harder than Cote D'azure just to the right but it seems no one has suggested an upgrade.

Notes:
I am not a power climber as a rule so that could be a thing.
I understand that it doesn't matter what the grade is... Gotta climb them all.

Thoughts? Mar 6, 2017
Echoinfi  
 
Overseas Tides is the name of that link up between Coral and Man Over. It's definitely an obvious line of climbing right through the heart of the crag, but has a big rest in the middle. I pretty sure I did the SA after John. I heard Chris Sharma onsighted this link up on one of his visits to the cliff. Aug 13, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.13b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13b
A slightly harder variation is to finish out the roof via Man Overboard. It probably makes it a 13c. FA - John Mallery. He had a name for it, but I can't remember it. Feb 5, 2013