Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ward Smith, April, 1997
Page Views: 5,373 total · 36/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The crux of Coral Sea is like climbing a refrigerator. It involves a bear hug sequence in which both hands use side-pull slopers with the friction and position of the edges of your fridge.

Once established over the roof, the flat sidepulls continue for many more moves. After 15 feet or so, a crimp offers a chance to actually grab onto something. Despite its small nature, it feels like a jug. The climbing remains pumpy to the end.

This is perhaps one of the most friction dependant climbs on the wall. Flat slopers, underclings, and weird foot sequences set Coral Sea apart as a unique classic.

Location

Climb up the ladder if it is there. Otherwise, climb the start of Techno then angle right to the big E-Ticket ledge. Four climbs start from tis raised ledge. Coral is the second route from the right.

Protection

8 Bolts--Many chose to stick clip the second bolt. This is the bolt way up over the lip.

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Photos

Coral Sea, see!
Coral Sea, see!
 6
The route really doesn't let up until this sidepull section.<br> <br> Doug Rosenberg photo.
The route really doesn't let up until this side…
 2
Tim Greene on the part that looks easy but is still pumpy and daunting on the go.
Tim Greene on the part that looks easy but is s…
 0
Tim Greene thinking that maybe if her gives the cliff a hug it will take it easy on him... it won't, I've tried...
Tim Greene thinking that maybe if her gives the…
 0
The crux of Coral Sea... This captures the spirit of the route quite well... Climber Tim Greene, photo by ME!
The crux of Coral Sea... This captures the spir…
 0
Unknown very strong climber on Coral Sea
Unknown very strong climber on Coral Sea
 0
Pumpy climbing high on the route.
Pumpy climbing high on the route.
 0
The crux of Coral.
The crux of Coral.
 0

8 Comments

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M Sprague
New England
  5.13b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13b
A slightly harder variation is to finish out the roof via Man Overboard. It probably makes it a 13c. FA - John Mallery. He had a name for it, but I can't remember it. Feb 5, 2013
Echoinfi
 
Echoinfi  
 
Overseas Tides is the name of that link up between Coral and Man Over. It's definitely an obvious line of climbing right through the heart of the crag, but has a big rest in the middle. I pretty sure I did the SA after John. I heard Chris Sharma onsighted this link up on one of his visits to the cliff. Aug 13, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I've been working on this thing a bit lately and I guess I need to geek out for a sec. I had heard rumor of a foothold breaking years back which according to my source (Jay Knower? I forget.) made the crux compression section considerably more challenging. I figured I'd bring it up since I am personally finding this one to be harder than Cote D'azure just to the right but it seems no one has suggested an upgrade.

Notes:
I am not a power climber as a rule so that could be a thing.
I understand that it doesn't matter what the grade is... Gotta climb them all.

Thoughts? Mar 6, 2017
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
  5.13b
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
  5.13b
Lee, I did this one recently, and though it fits my sloper-loving style, I don't thinks it's 13c in great conditions. Tim D and Levy both said it feels 13c to them, though. I think some Rumney routes are suffering from grade inflation so it's good to have a few stiff climbs like this and Cote to offset it ;-). Jul 10, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Thanks for chiming in. I do great with slopers but not as well with hard compression. That is my issue I think. Such a fantastic route though. well worth flailing on until i'm ready. Jul 10, 2017
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
  5.13b
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
  5.13b
I will say that I think the crux is harder for tall people. Getting your feet under you after pulling the first roof seems like it would require significantly more compression effort. Could be harder than 13b in that case. Jul 10, 2017
M Sprague
New England
  5.13b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13b
Bare feet, Lee Jul 10, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Will- your comment makes sense.
Mark- I don't play that game haha. But for real, has it gone bare foot. That would be crazy. Jul 12, 2017