Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dave Graham 5/98
Page Views: 445 total · 4/month
Shared By: Andrew Palmer on Jul 20, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Grab some good sidepulls and then launch into the crux: tiny holds and powerful moves between them. Surprisingly sustained.

Location

On the far left end of Waimea, beyond Jaws, China Beach, and Livin' Astro. Just to the right of TABDITO.

Clip the directional at head height and then stick clip the second (first?) bolt on the climb.

Protection

4 fixed draws.

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Would be a nice, maybe hard 12 if not for one desperate long reach between tweakers move in the low crux. Unfortunately, glue was not very artfully used to reinforce a lot of the holds (before Dave got on it), which is visable when you look down the route. It probably could be cleaned up with a small sharp chisel to carefully take off the excess and a small bit of new glue and sand to camo what remains. Feb 5, 2013
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
It would be nice to have some beta for the bottom boulder. I don't know anyone that's done this, seems that people have done it have moved on. I left a bail biner on the first bolt over 2 years ago and I think it was just removed, so that goes to show that it doesn't receive much affection. The holds are impossibly small down low... Sep 19, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Yeah I agree, I put an hour in to figuring out some moves this spring and had a similar experience. Sep 19, 2017