Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Dave Graham, 1999
Page Views: 8,472 total, 63/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 1, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The right side of Waimea holds a wall so unbroken in steepness that it is unrivaled in the Northeast. Urban Surfer climbs up the center of this wall.

Start as for Suburban and climb past the kneebar, past the V5 crux, and into the big resting kneebar that signifies the end of Suburban. From here, the route angles left across a hanging corner. The first move involves an awkward reach out left to a tiny crimp. The pumpy moves continue across the diagonaling feature until a huge jug and a big kneebar offer a good rest. Climbing from kneebar to kneebar has been called a V8 boulder problem, though this stretch is about twenty feet long.

From the jug, easier moves head up and slightly right until right below the anchors. A big pull gains the top of the cliff. The topout, though relatively easy, is spectacular.

Originally bolted by John Mallery, Urban was a popular project back then, and continues as such today. In fact, many Rumney climbers never stray from this section of rock. It's understandable, really, as Urban and variations thereof, test a climber's fitness, power, mental fortitude, and kneebarring prowess.

Protection

10 bolts which are always fixed with draws. A right kneepad is crucial.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Thanks for the inspection and the report Will! Oct 23, 2017
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.13d
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.13d
The crimp is currently in good condition and should remain so unless someone pulls out on it instead of straight down. The move normally requires little to no outward pull. Oct 23, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Whao! I never said I'd take a look! I have no business gluing up there, someone with way more experience should be doing it. Oct 22, 2017
Jon Frisby
Brooklyn, NY
Jon Frisby   Brooklyn, NY
Eli (Buzzell) plans on taking a look soon Oct 19, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Oh geeze! Glad you sent but that could be rugged for my Cold War plans. Anyone have the confidence to take care of it? Oct 19, 2017
Managed to get this done today but when I matched the fin(last part of the crux) (with my right hand on the glued on edge/crimp before the move to the jug on restless) I felt the crimp flex/wiggle. I think there is a strong chance it will fall off the next time it is used. I have to leave for the red tmrw so I wont be able to fix it myself. If anyone has the time/know-how to reinforce it please have a look.
-Alex Oct 18, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
little video of the climb :) nothing fancy
youtube.com/watch?v=fuiOcP_… Sep 17, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks mark! it was quite an intense process and a fantastic climb... yeah, i could imagine the reach being a bitch for shorter climbers... Sep 17, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Congratulations, Lee. You are climbing hard these days. What a super route. I worked on it for a while, but got shot down by the reach move on the traverse from the kneebar at the sub-anchor. I was always an inch away from the crimp, even getting completely horizontal :( I did hear that Dan Nguyen found a short person's way by staying low to the little crack. Sep 17, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
a challenging route in so many ways but very workable... i saw little bits of progress on every attempt, constantly refining beta to my personal perfection...

it was a hugely mental challenge for me since it takes a while to climb it and you aren't always on point... for instance my inner monologue had a hard time shutting up when i was in the knee bars... it wasnt the zen experience i often have while climbing... but a great learning experience as i've never done such a long hard route...

i recommend it highly to any 5.13 climber that is technically minded... Sep 17, 2012
James Otey
NH
  5.13d
James Otey   NH
  5.13d
This is the quintessential "fitness route." Sure there are individual moves that are difficult, but it is certainly not a boulderer's route.

The true challenge isn't an individual move, rather, it it climbing from the bottom to the top. The route is so taxing physically because it engages such large muscle groups- and by that I mean the entire core. The "rest" positions are just as taxing the rest of the route, just on the core musculature instead of the forearms. When I tried it in July and August, I would often find myself lowering off gasping for air, and trying to wipe sweat out of my eyes.

For me, the beta must be precisely refined as any break in efficiency causes energy to hemorrhage.

All in all, one of the best routes I've touched at Rumney, and one of the best 13s EVER. Sep 4, 2011