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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 20 ft
FA: Chris Smith, 1995
Page Views: 6,734 total · 47/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 4, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

An aptly named route, Bottom Feeder climbs the short corner at the base of the cliff. Though the corner itself is quite beautiful, and the crux moves are engaging, the fact that the route ends at a ledge one third of the way up the cliff detracts from the overall quality.

Bottom feeder is a very popular project for boulderers. Stick clip the second bolt. A V7 sequence between the second and third bolts represents the meat of the route. Jugs follow to the anchors.

youtube.com/watch?v=mtSBJqM…

Protection [Suggest Change]

4 bolts.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Yes, it is short.... No, it's not the best Rumney 5.13...but as the description states the crux moves are "engaging" or as I put it wicked hard but fun.... No matter its length, climbing this route will bring you to respect it.... Jul 2, 2007
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
i heard rumor of far left feet almost to the arete... any one have foot beta on this? im having some feet issues haha.... Aug 24, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I never used feet that far left. I think that takes you away from the good handholds. I think the trick is to get farther RIGHT, using the footholds on the right wall. This allows you to lay back off that sidepull above the little pocket thing. Does this help? Aug 24, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
a little :) i think i was thinking about that when i was on it but i dont know if i gave it too much thought lol :) i may have to just face the facts haha.... its a damn hard route :) Aug 24, 2009
James Otey
NH
  5.13a
James Otey   NH
  5.13a
Subtle foot movements and body positions are key to efficiently getting into the lefthand sidepull. Feet to the right are key as well. Aug 25, 2009
Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
  5.12d
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
  5.12d
The rumor you heard is true about the far left feet. I believe I had both feet smeared with one way out left and one closer (but also on the left face) in some contorted position to latch the side pull before bringing my right foot back again to the other side. Apr 25, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Hi Colin,

I see that on your personal website (which looks cool BTW), you rate Bottom Feeder 13a. Yet, here you have rated it 12c/d. What gives? Apr 26, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Ha! Nice catch Jay! Apr 26, 2010
Colin Rickert
Ottawa, ON
  5.12d
Colin Rickert   Ottawa, ON
  5.12d
Hey Jay,

Yes, good observation. If you don't mind a slightly political answer I'll do my best to explain....

I did Bottom Feeder back in 2004 and felt it was V6/7 or 12d/13a and when I first did the web site I added it as 13a (probably because it's the only one I have done - maybe). Since then, basically I've been climbing a lot more in Vermont and the grades are really (ahem) sandbagged and I guess it's caused me to rethink things. I guess in my mind I just try to make everything internally consistent but in reality it's not possible. I don't even know how hard BF would feel now.

I suppose I should reconsider... Jul 19, 2010

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