Type: Sport
FA: John Mallery
Page Views: 12,021 total · 82/month
Shared By: Jen Lloyd on Nov 9, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Climb the steep, yet moderate, wall to the lip about half way up the route, being sure to take advantage of any rests you can conjure. They do exist, although they can be a bit elusive. And they do make a difference, despite seeming unnecessary in this "easy" terrain. Once at the lip be prepared for powerful, beta intensive moves all the way to the anchor. Crimps, slopers, heel-hooks, flags, gastons, arete pinches, and a big cross-over move await. Oh, yeah, and some really hard clips.

Location

Scramble onto the huge boulder which separates the route Waimea from the center of the crag. (Not as hard/scary as it looks). Butt Bongo is the route which goes up the center of the wall on top of the boulder and climbs the left arete.

Protection

7 bolts
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
i think i might try this tomorrow...any specific beta? Aug 9, 2009
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
How does this compare (quality, climbing style, power etc.) to Tin Monkeys, Dynosaur, and Beat Junkie?

edit:
Thanks Jay. Aug 19, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I would say that BBF is not as pumpy as the other routes you mentioned. However, I feel that the moves on BBF are more advanced than on Tin Monkeys and Dynosaur. Basically, BBF is a 13a that climbs like a 13d, requiring very subtle hip movement and center of gravity awareness.

It's very high quality, and much easier than Beat Junkie, IMO. Aug 19, 2009
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.13a
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.13a
Sequential and bouldery. After the moderate face, bust out the roof using an undercling, but first make a hard clip. Heel hook to pull the roof and make another hard clip off a crimp. Surge up into the left facing corner using a heel perch and snatching the right hand on thin sidepulls. Then make a rose move left (think Euro) and make a final deadpoint to a crimp. Take your time on the interesting, easy finish. Oct 25, 2009
James Otey
  5.13a
James Otey  
  5.13a
I never did a rose move on this- did you cross under your arm on the crossover move? That would be impressive considering it's a body tension intensive arete pinch. May 5, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I think the "rose move" is the move where you reach left to the hold around the corner. I reach with my right hand while laying back with my left on the arete. It's kind of rose move-ish. May 7, 2010
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.13a
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.13a
I guess it is technically not a rose move, I reached over my arm like Jay described. French pocketed limestone this is not. Jan 28, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13a
This gets my vote for the best 13a at Rumney... so subtle yet powerful!
this is one i will come back and climb many times!!!!!!!! Dec 3, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13a
a lil' video of my 2nd try on BBF... my beta got better on the next couple goes but this shows the general idea...
its a bit funny to listen to otey and i talking while im still low down and also my silly noises as i get more and more pumped...
youtube.com/watch?v=Fjo4OZA… Dec 3, 2012
Colonel Sandbag
Boston, MA
Colonel Sandbag   Boston, MA
How tall is this route? My impression is that it's a single cool boulder problem in the sky and everything else is forgettable. Am I correct on that? Is it V7ish on the top? Mar 11, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13a
I find it to be engaging and fun the entire time... one of the best routes I've done... the top moves arent v7... but they feel hard on the go... Mar 18, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
CS^^ I'd call it more power endurance than bouldery, though the moves are quite "technical". Non of the moves are particularly hard on their own, but put together you will be feeling the burn on the last moves. It is not the longest route (guessing 50 feet), but very fun. Mar 18, 2016
Colonel Sandbag
Boston, MA
Colonel Sandbag   Boston, MA
Thats good beta. Thanks, guys. Mar 28, 2016
Kim Parretti
Worcester, MA
Kim Parretti   Worcester, MA
Sadly I have to report this climb is now broken :( I pulled off the side pull hold just under the roof on Saturday (9/8/18). As far as I can tell it looks impossible to get through that section now. The hold is sitting at the base of the climb if anyone thinks it can be glued back on.... Sep 9, 2018
Jay Conway has graciously re-attached the fallen hold. This section is now slightly easier, but in my opinion actually climbs better. Butt Bongo Fiesta II? Oct 21, 2018