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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: John Mallery
Page Views: 10,987 total, 81/month
Shared By: Jen Lloyd on Nov 9, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the steep, yet moderate, wall to the lip about half way up the route, being sure to take advantage of any rests you can conjure. They do exist, although they can be a bit elusive. And they do make a difference, despite seeming unnecessary in this "easy" terrain. Once at the lip be prepared for powerful, beta intensive moves all the way to the anchor. Crimps, slopers, heel-hooks, flags, gastons, arete pinches, and a big cross-over move await. Oh, yeah, and some really hard clips.

Location

Scramble onto the huge boulder which separates the route Waimea from the center of the crag. (Not as hard/scary as it looks). Butt Bongo is the route which goes up the center of the wall on top of the boulder and climbs the left arete.

Protection

7 bolts
Colonel Sandbag
Boston, MA
Colonel Sandbag   Boston, MA
Thats good beta. Thanks, guys. Mar 28, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
CS^^ I'd call it more power endurance than bouldery, though the moves are quite "technical". Non of the moves are particularly hard on their own, but put together you will be feeling the burn on the last moves. It is not the longest route (guessing 50 feet), but very fun. Mar 18, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13a
I find it to be engaging and fun the entire time... one of the best routes I've done... the top moves arent v7... but they feel hard on the go... Mar 18, 2016
Colonel Sandbag
Boston, MA
Colonel Sandbag   Boston, MA
How tall is this route? My impression is that it's a single cool boulder problem in the sky and everything else is forgettable. Am I correct on that? Is it V7ish on the top? Mar 11, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13a
a lil' video of my 2nd try on BBF... my beta got better on the next couple goes but this shows the general idea...
its a bit funny to listen to otey and i talking while im still low down and also my silly noises as i get more and more pumped...
youtube.com/watch?v=Fjo4OZA… Dec 3, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13a
This gets my vote for the best 13a at Rumney... so subtle yet powerful!
this is one i will come back and climb many times!!!!!!!! Dec 3, 2012
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.13a
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.13a
I guess it is technically not a rose move, I reached over my arm like Jay described. French pocketed limestone this is not. Jan 28, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I think the "rose move" is the move where you reach left to the hold around the corner. I reach with my right hand while laying back with my left on the arete. It's kind of rose move-ish. May 7, 2010
James Otey
NH
  5.13a
James Otey   NH
  5.13a
I never did a rose move on this- did you cross under your arm on the crossover move? That would be impressive considering it's a body tension intensive arete pinch. May 5, 2010
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.13a
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.13a
Sequential and bouldery. After the moderate face, bust out the roof using an undercling, but first make a hard clip. Heel hook to pull the roof and make another hard clip off a crimp. Surge up into the left facing corner using a heel perch and snatching the right hand on thin sidepulls. Then make a rose move left (think Euro) and make a final deadpoint to a crimp. Take your time on the interesting, easy finish. Oct 25, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I would say that BBF is not as pumpy as the other routes you mentioned. However, I feel that the moves on BBF are more advanced than on Tin Monkeys and Dynosaur. Basically, BBF is a 13a that climbs like a 13d, requiring very subtle hip movement and center of gravity awareness.

It's very high quality, and much easier than Beat Junkie, IMO. Aug 19, 2009
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
How does this compare (quality, climbing style, power etc.) to Tin Monkeys, Dynosaur, and Beat Junkie?

edit:
Thanks Jay. Aug 19, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
i think i might try this tomorrow...any specific beta? Aug 9, 2009