Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Craig Smith, 1992
Page Views: 5,618 total, 42/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 1, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Tsunami offers a varied tour of the left side of Waimea's central wall. The leftmost of the popular 5.12's (the others being Whip Tide, Aquarius, Techno, and Big Kahuna), Tsunami sees a fair amount of traffic.

Also typical of the climbs in this area, the start of Tsunami may prove troublesome. It must be the way the lower band of schist formed; all of the holds seem to point the wrong way. Stick clip the first bolt and crank hard to get on the wall. Shorter climbers might have to jump for the first hold. After the initial wall is breached, easy climbing leads to the base of the two foot wide roof.

The roof actually points down. The underclings underneath the roof are positive enough, but is hard to escape the feeling that the edge if the roof is cutting into your chest. A deft use of a heelhook on a sloping edge out right allows passage over the roof and onto the hanging steep slab. This slab, ala Aquarius, has some pretty good footholds, so it is possible to rest.

From the steep slab, head left to the arete itself. A considerable redpoint crux guards the chains. Top out on the mini ledge and clip the chains just to the left of Techno's anchors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9WK_aFM42I

Protection

9 bolts
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.12d
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.12d
This is every bit as hard any any 12d at Rumney. The upper crux feels like it was pulled out of a 5.13 and thrown on a 5.12. Jul 10, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Nothing fancy this time but a lot of folks have a hard time in this one so torie was kind enough to shoot a bit of footage. should be helpful in the beta department... sorry for the lack of editing. I was having technical difficulties and just decided to post it up as is (fast forward through the resting ;)
youtube.com/watch?v=W9WK_aF… Jun 27, 2017
irujo
 
irujo  
 
This route is hard as nails... sent dynosoar in about 1/3 of the time! So much fun though! Apr 28, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Yesterday I did the first half of this and finished on Techno... Fun if you know both routes well and want to mix things up. Bit run out as you head up the surf board on techno but that's not a hard spot relative to the rest of the climb. Apr 17, 2017
Tom Armstrong
  5.12c/d PG13
Tom Armstrong  
  5.12c/d PG13
Hard sequences with great rests - what more could you want! I found an alternative start by coming in from Big K, maybe V4. Rating? I was convinced it was 12d until I sent, now I'm not so sure. I used the heel hook way right on the shelf where there's a divot - worked every time. Superb climb! Jun 16, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i had fixed draws on it last year and between people giving me crap about it and an expressed desire for a voluntary clean up of routes that don't really need fixed draws i took them down... since then they have been fixed off and on, i assume while people have been projecting it... how is it different? its not... however the only bolt that is hard to load a draw on is the one in the roof and it sounds like that one was left up... pretty easy to run up Flying Hawaiian or Techno and fix Tsunami on the way down too if you want them pre hung... May 20, 2013
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
Seth Cohen   Concord, NH
Does this climb usually have fixed draws on it? I was at Waimea today and saw someone clean all the draws off it except for the one hanging over the roof. If it normally has fixed draws, why the clean? If it doesn't, what makes it different from the other 12s in the area? May 19, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.12c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12c
Great route! I found it made a difference at the crux to make sure I was on my toe out near the edge of the slabby foothold, rather than using a heelhook. It made it a lot easier to rock over from the crimp match to get the reach. It made it so it wasn't really the crux for me any more. Jun 28, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
im with you all the way Otey! Jun 28, 2011
James Otey
NH
  5.12c/d
James Otey   NH
  5.12c/d
More people need to climb this route. It is way better than Techno (yeah I said it!) and Whip Tide, and may even edge out Aquarius.

I thought that the crux was pulling the roof. You can get it all back at the jug rest, so the upper crux isn't too bad.

The best 5.12 at Waimea in my opinion.

Discuss... Jun 27, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I fixed draws on this today... so i hope it gets the traffic it deserves now.... i couldnt remember which bolt the long draw worked best on, you can switch it if you like... enjoy Jun 3, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
my fave 5.12 @ rumney :) Aug 17, 2009
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
This route is rediculass. Aug 17, 2009