Type: Sport
FA: Craig Smith, 1992
Page Views: 6,074 total · 41/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 1, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Tsunami offers a varied tour of the left side of Waimea's central wall. The leftmost of the popular 5.12's (the others being Whip Tide, Aquarius, Techno, and Big Kahuna), Tsunami sees a fair amount of traffic.

Also typical of the climbs in this area, the start of Tsunami may prove troublesome. It must be the way the lower band of schist formed; all of the holds seem to point the wrong way. Stick clip the first bolt and crank hard to get on the wall. Shorter climbers might have to jump for the first hold. After the initial wall is breached, easy climbing leads to the base of the two foot wide roof.

The roof actually points down. The underclings underneath the roof are positive enough, but is hard to escape the feeling that the edge if the roof is cutting into your chest. A deft use of a heelhook on a sloping edge out right allows passage over the roof and onto the hanging steep slab. This slab, ala Aquarius, has some pretty good footholds, so it is possible to rest.

From the steep slab, head left to the arete itself. A considerable redpoint crux guards the chains. Top out on the mini ledge and clip the chains just to the left of Techno's anchors.
youtube.com/watch?v=W9WK_aF…

Protection

9 bolts
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
This route is rediculass. Aug 17, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
my fave 5.12 @ rumney :) Aug 17, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I fixed draws on this today... so i hope it gets the traffic it deserves now.... i couldnt remember which bolt the long draw worked best on, you can switch it if you like... enjoy Jun 3, 2011
James Otey
  5.12c/d
James Otey  
  5.12c/d
More people need to climb this route. It is way better than Techno (yeah I said it!) and Whip Tide, and may even edge out Aquarius.

I thought that the crux was pulling the roof. You can get it all back at the jug rest, so the upper crux isn't too bad.

The best 5.12 at Waimea in my opinion.

Discuss... Jun 27, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
im with you all the way Otey! Jun 28, 2011
M Sprague
New England
  5.12c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12c
Great route! I found it made a difference at the crux to make sure I was on my toe out near the edge of the slabby foothold, rather than using a heelhook. It made it a lot easier to rock over from the crimp match to get the reach. It made it so it wasn't really the crux for me any more. Jun 28, 2011
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
Seth Cohen   Concord, NH
Does this climb usually have fixed draws on it? I was at Waimea today and saw someone clean all the draws off it except for the one hanging over the roof. If it normally has fixed draws, why the clean? If it doesn't, what makes it different from the other 12s in the area? May 19, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i had fixed draws on it last year and between people giving me crap about it and an expressed desire for a voluntary clean up of routes that don't really need fixed draws i took them down... since then they have been fixed off and on, i assume while people have been projecting it... how is it different? its not... however the only bolt that is hard to load a draw on is the one in the roof and it sounds like that one was left up... pretty easy to run up Flying Hawaiian or Techno and fix Tsunami on the way down too if you want them pre hung... May 20, 2013
Tom Armstrong
  5.12c/d PG13
Tom Armstrong  
  5.12c/d PG13
Hard sequences with great rests - what more could you want! I found an alternative start by coming in from Big K, maybe V4. Rating? I was convinced it was 12d until I sent, now I'm not so sure. I used the heel hook way right on the shelf where there's a divot - worked every time. Superb climb! Jun 16, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Yesterday I did the first half of this and finished on Techno... Fun if you know both routes well and want to mix things up. Bit run out as you head up the surf board on techno but that's not a hard spot relative to the rest of the climb. Apr 17, 2017
irujo
 
irujo  
 
This route is hard as nails... sent dynosoar in about 1/3 of the time! So much fun though! Apr 28, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Nothing fancy this time but a lot of folks have a hard time in this one so torie was kind enough to shoot a bit of footage. should be helpful in the beta department... sorry for the lack of editing. I was having technical difficulties and just decided to post it up as is (fast forward through the resting ;)
youtube.com/watch?v=W9WK_aF… Jun 27, 2017
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
  5.12d
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
  5.12d
This is every bit as hard any any 12d at Rumney. The upper crux feels like it was pulled out of a 5.13 and thrown on a 5.12. Jul 10, 2017
Thanks. It seems such a long time ago. I enjoyed this route a lot. Wish I'd have had more time and motivation to do some of the other amazing lines that were still up for grabs. My ethics were still in the 1980's so no topping or pre practice. I remember trying what became China Beach ground up with Hugh Hare. Wish I'd have wheeled out the top tope : ) x Craig Jul 27, 2018