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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Tim Kemple Jr. (Dogboy)
Page Views: 2,561 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Johnson on Jan 8, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is more of a v9 boulder problem than a proper route - if this block had rolled all the way down to the Blackjacks instead of perching itself above a steep hillside, there would be no need for bolts at all. Start with one hand on the left arete and the other on a good crimp and start squeezing and slapping up. Around the second bolt, make a hard move into a shallow two-finger undercling/pinch above your head and then make a blind throw to a glorious jug around the corner.

The second bolt is usually stick-clipped because clipping it is next to impossible. If you go this route you won't make a clip until the business is done. Falls near the end of the crux can be exciting, though - make sure the belayer is out of the way. Has been bouldered.

Location

The furthest left route at Wiamea.

Protection

bolts, often loose. Bring a wrench to tighten the second.

Photos

Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.13c
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.13c
If it wasn't for the uncomfortable two-finger undercling, this would get 4 stars IMO. The moves up to that point are incredible and even the throw to the jug (really just a campus rung) is fun. Felt low end 13c to me, but I'm 5'7" and those are some big spans. Apr 15, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I got on this thing years back, when I was a lot stronger. The attempt ended very quickly. It seemed like you need long arms and a lot of power. Cyberblock, next to it, seemed much more doable if you don't have an 8 foot wingspan (though still reachy in the crux). Feb 5, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
got on it today and found the movement surprisingly fun!
only thing that is weird is that if you dont basically stick clip the whole route the falls from the crux could be sketchy or at least lame and unnecessarily exciting, i tried it the safe way :) FUN! Jan 15, 2013
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
Yeah, I knew those two along with Jay Conway were coming over, but no one else. Let me know when you do, and we can meet up. Jan 10, 2008
Ladd    
Actually Chris, Jay and Kayte were making trips over to spider's web before they left for vacation. I'm also going to start heading over your way more often once the weather gets better! Soon enough we'll start adding some routes to the Dacks. Jan 10, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
Thanks for stepping up to the plate on that one, Ladd. Guess it's your job as admin., eh?

It's a shame that more New Hampshirians don't visit the Adirondacks....well, maybe that's a good thing; otherwise, the list of comments that need follow-up would be unmanageable. But then again, I wouldn't be the author of practically every descriptions for the area! Jan 8, 2008
Ladd    
Take A Big Dump In The Ocean

I teach juvenile felons, yes, really. Jan 8, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
So as to add a little depth to this description and to clear up any questions about the route name--The route is an acronym for something rather profane...I'm no prude or anything, but considering I'm a teacher, I feel like I am not at liberty to share it (The role model guilts are getting in the way). Perhaps someone with less couth could do the dirty deed of explaining said acronym!? Jan 8, 2008