Type: Sport, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Tim Kemple Jr. (Dogboy)
Page Views: 4,288 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Johnson on Jan 8, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is more of a v9 boulder problem than a proper route - if this block had rolled all the way down to the Blackjacks instead of perching itself above a steep hillside, there would be no need for bolts at all. Start with one hand on the left arete and the other on a good crimp and start squeezing and slapping up. Around the second bolt, make a hard move into a shallow two-finger undercling/pinch above your head and then make a blind throw to a glorious jug around the corner.

The second bolt is usually stick-clipped because clipping it is next to impossible. If you go this route you won't make a clip until the business is done. Falls near the end of the crux can be exciting, though - make sure the belayer is out of the way. Has been bouldered.

Location Suggest change

The furthest left route at Wiamea.

Protection Suggest change

bolts, often loose. Bring a wrench to tighten the second.

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