Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Squibb, Mallery, Andrew, 1989
Page Views: 14,044 total · 94/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 4, 2006 with updates from Jonathan Corriveau
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


79 Opinions

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Description

Whip Tide climbs up the central inside corner of the cliff. However, this corner is guarded by a bouldery overhang at the bottom and a giant roof at the top. The pump crux, topping out, has given many a climber trouble, but grabbing the chains is a definite faux pas.

Climb up the ladder to the ledge. Whip Tide is the farthest left route starting off the ledge. Stems and the sneaky use of an undercling allow establishment in the corner. From here, relatively moderate, but spicy stemming leads to the roof. Fear not, as the roof holds are some of the biggest in Rumney. Traverse right across the roof and top out.

Originally graded 5.12c, the crux of the route involved a very powerful cross through from a gaston in order to enter the corner. The newer undercling beta may have taken the sting out of the grade.
youtube.com/watch?v=w6T_TNI…

Protection

13 bolts
George Squibb
Boulder, CO
George Squibb   Boulder, CO
It was a long time ago, but I think we originally graded it .12b Nov 29, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.12b
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.12b
The most recent guidebook has it at 12c, but I would agree with 12b. Technosurfing is at least as hard as Whip Tide, if not harder, and Techno's 12b. Nov 29, 2006
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
The victory whip from the top is not to be missed.... I found the whipper to be at least as fun as the climb itself....

To take the whip:
1. don't clip the chains...
2. have your belayer pay out a bit of extra slack...
3. walk the plank...

You will hit the wall but not too hard at all...have fun.... Feb 14, 2007
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
new project for mike?....i think so!.... take the whiper eh! Feb 7, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
good proj for you mike... work out the boulder problem start then crush it... Feb 8, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
oh it will be crushed Feb 17, 2008
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Try as I might, I couldn't seem to make that lower crux getting into the corner feel any easier than a legit V5 (12c)... guess I needed someone to show me the sneaky undercling beta. I found this route way harder than Technosurfing. Oct 14, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
perhaps ill get some video some day.... till then watch people do it and steal beta... it really does get easier the more you figure it out... Oct 15, 2010
Watched a guy free solo this today...made it look like 5.6. Impressive as hell. Nov 7, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.12b/c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12b/c
Timmy Deroehn? Man, I wish he would stop doing that. It is impressive how he has those routes wired, but I would hate to see or hear that he splattered. The odds aren't good if you keep doing that, no matter how good you are. Frankly, it always seems a little odd when people solo with others around. Nov 8, 2010
I don't think that was his last name...I could be wrong. It was only my partner and I there....so it wasn't crowded...and it was clear that he had no intention of trying to impress anyone. In fact, when his friends showed up, he put on his harness. Nov 8, 2010
Hannah W  
 
I think another factor in how this climb feels different for different people is that I think the crux favors people with shorter legs - you just fit into the dihedral better (I know, I'm waiting to hear the dissenting voices). I'd never climbed v4 outside when I sent this climb (still haven't sent any v4s as a matter of fact), and although it took a lot of effort to send it, i was able to figure out a good sequence in the end.

I think it's far more important in the crux to look at your feet as well, the undercling is key but it won't do any good if you don't put your feet right. before i sent the climb i had it exactly figured out where to put my feet with numerous different foot switches in the short 20 foot crux. you just have to figure out a way to use the opposition forces in the dihedral to your advantage.

kayte knower had the best beta for the climb, it really helped me out so if you see her maybe ask her? May 20, 2011
Video of Tim Deroehn Free Soloing RT...

youtube.com/watch?v=okQZPFU… Jan 12, 2012
Ian Grant
Cambridge
  5.12b
Ian Grant   Cambridge
  5.12b
Classic. Perhaps it's the gym climbing's fault, but this felt wildly more difficult than Techno. Bring your full bag of tricks. Nov 8, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12b
Eric Leclerc   Montreal  
  5.12b
I have seen many climbers in the 5.13 range getting spanked in the starting crux. Follow Lee's advice and have someone to show you the beta. If executed well, it feels quite easy. If you grade this route according to the onsight difficulty, it could be 5.13b but in my opinion, the grade should always be established according to the easiest way to climb it. After climbing Whip-Tide, Man Overboard and E-Ticket, I cannot give Whip Tide more than 12b. Super boulder problem, delicate dihedral and a nice and easy gym roof finish! Nov 10, 2014
haha I could not agree more. The beginning crux feels impossibly hard for me. I really want to work on this thing but got spanked by that every time I try! I have only watched the video though, definitely need to watch someone do it in real time. Nov 23, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
Torie grabbed some footage of me running a cold lap on this thing a few months ago. finally got around to posting it. Sorry I didn't cut out the long rest while I warmed up my hands just scoot through that part and it might just be fun and informative haha
youtube.com/watch?v=w6T_TNI… Jun 27, 2017