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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Squibb, Mallery, Andrew, 1989
Page Views: 13,077 total, 96/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 4, 2006 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Whip Tide climbs up the central inside corner of the cliff. However, this corner is guarded by a bouldery overhang at the bottom and a giant roof at the top. The pump crux, topping out, has given many a climber trouble, but grabbing the chains is a definite faux pas.

Climb up the ladder to the ledge. Whip Tide is the farthest left route starting off the ledge. Stems and the sneaky use of an undercling allow establishment in the corner. From here, relatively moderate, but spicy stemming leads to the roof. Fear not, as the roof holds are some of the biggest in Rumney. Traverse right across the roof and top out.

Originally graded 5.12c, the crux of the route involved a very powerful cross through from a gaston in order to enter the corner. The newer undercling beta may have taken the sting out of the grade.

Protection

13 bolts
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
Torie grabbed some footage of me running a cold lap on this thing a few months ago. finally got around to posting it. Sorry I didn't cut out the long rest while I warmed up my hands just scoot through that part and it might just be fun and informative haha
youtube.com/watch?v=w6T_TNI… Jun 27, 2017
haha I could not agree more. The beginning crux feels impossibly hard for me. I really want to work on this thing but got spanked by that every time I try! I have only watched the video though, definitely need to watch someone do it in real time. Nov 23, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12b
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12b
I have seen many climbers in the 5.13 range getting spanked in the starting crux. Follow Lee's advice and have someone to show you the beta. If executed well, it feels quite easy. If you grade this route according to the onsight difficulty, it could be 5.13b but in my opinion, the grade should always be established according to the easiest way to climb it. After climbing Whip-Tide, Man Overboard and E-Ticket, I cannot give Whip Tide more than 12b. Super boulder problem, delicate dihedral and a nice and easy gym roof finish! Nov 10, 2014
Ian Grant
Cambridge
  5.12b
Ian Grant   Cambridge
  5.12b
Classic. Perhaps it's the gym climbing's fault, but this felt wildly more difficult than Techno. Bring your full bag of tricks. Nov 8, 2014
Video of Tim Deroehn Free Soloing RT...

youtube.com/watch?v=okQZPFU… Jan 12, 2012
Hannah W  
 
I think another factor in how this climb feels different for different people is that I think the crux favors people with shorter legs - you just fit into the dihedral better (I know, I'm waiting to hear the dissenting voices). I'd never climbed v4 outside when I sent this climb (still haven't sent any v4s as a matter of fact), and although it took a lot of effort to send it, i was able to figure out a good sequence in the end.

I think it's far more important in the crux to look at your feet as well, the undercling is key but it won't do any good if you don't put your feet right. before i sent the climb i had it exactly figured out where to put my feet with numerous different foot switches in the short 20 foot crux. you just have to figure out a way to use the opposition forces in the dihedral to your advantage.

kayte knower had the best beta for the climb, it really helped me out so if you see her maybe ask her? May 20, 2011
I don't think that was his last name...I could be wrong. It was only my partner and I there....so it wasn't crowded...and it was clear that he had no intention of trying to impress anyone. In fact, when his friends showed up, he put on his harness. Nov 8, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.12b/c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12b/c
Timmy Deroehn? Man, I wish he would stop doing that. It is impressive how he has those routes wired, but I would hate to see or hear that he splattered. The odds aren't good if you keep doing that, no matter how good you are. Frankly, it always seems a little odd when people solo with others around. Nov 8, 2010
Watched a guy free solo this today...made it look like 5.6. Impressive as hell. Nov 7, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
perhaps ill get some video some day.... till then watch people do it and steal beta... it really does get easier the more you figure it out... Oct 15, 2010
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Try as I might, I couldn't seem to make that lower crux getting into the corner feel any easier than a legit V5 (12c)... guess I needed someone to show me the sneaky undercling beta. I found this route way harder than Technosurfing. Oct 14, 2010
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
oh it will be crushed Feb 17, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
good proj for you mike... work out the boulder problem start then crush it... Feb 8, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
new project for mike?....i think so!.... take the whiper eh! Feb 7, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b/c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b/c
The victory whip from the top is not to be missed.... I found the whipper to be at least as fun as the climb itself....

To take the whip:
1. don't clip the chains...
2. have your belayer pay out a bit of extra slack...
3. walk the plank...

You will hit the wall but not too hard at all...have fun.... Feb 14, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
The most recent guidebook has it at 12c, but I would agree with 12b. Technosurfing is at least as hard as Whip Tide, if not harder, and Techno's 12b. Nov 29, 2006
George Squibb
Boulder, CO
George Squibb   Boulder, CO
It was a long time ago, but I think we originally graded it .12b Nov 29, 2006