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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 3,639 total, 27/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 29, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Locate the very overhanging wall on the right side of Waimea. Dodge climbs the left line (the right line being Riviera, 13d), and starts right where the trail meets the cliff. Climb straight up the wall to the first bolt and then take a hard left past two more bolts until it is possible to head straight up the easier corner.

Dodge starts with difficulty. Though Graham reportedly campused the first few moves and called the route 14a, a sneaky kneebar (see picture at right) makes it slightly more doable at 13c/d. The angle here is pretty much horizontal and the holds all seem like bad pinches. The crux of the route is climbing up to the first bolt (which you should have stick clipped). A kneebar offers a good rest before you embark on the leftward traverse.

Begin climbing left on progressively worsening holds across a hanging feature. The slappy, thrutchy nature of the climbing through this section has been called "violent." A hard move brings you to the end of the traverse. From here, climb the relatively easy corner of Maui Wowie to the top. Though a line of bolts continues up the steep arete, this line is very contrived, as a high foot is all that's required to rock up into the MW corner.

Dodge is a relatively popular climb and feels a lot like an extended boulder problem. Incidentally, it climbs much, much better than it looks.

Protection

Bolts, maybe a right knee pad

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