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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Smith, 1994
Page Views: 4,048 total, 31/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 18, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Cool moves and Technical moves on a face make this climb very interesting. Finding and taking rests will make his climb easier...
Some of the upper moves can be spicy on a fall day when the sun comes out and your hands start getting mighty sweaty on the dark-colored hot final flake moves.

The crux of this route will hit you when you try to get off the ledge mid-way up, Hint: it involves an exciting deadpoint to a three finger pocket/crimp. It might seem like the lower bolt on the ledge is kinda silly but keep it clipped it really keeps the rope out of your way for the crux.

Unlike most of this cliff, this route rarely has draws in place. Too bad that it is wet most of the year. Very worthwhile when dry. Warm-up your hips and calves for this one!

Location

Black streak in middle of Waimea. Very open right facing corner. Just left of Silver Surfer(5.12a) and Flying Hawaiian(5.11b)

Protection

7 Bolts to anchors.
cashmab
  5.12a
cashmab  
  5.12a
This route was totally in style for me, and I think .12a is a fair grade. I didn't find the "crux" all that....well....cruxy. I found almost everything above the "crux" fairly sustained and taxing, in a balancy technical sort of way. A lot of tick-tacking your way up delicate feet and small half pad crimps with not a lot of great rest opportunities. The finish baffled me until I realized that you just have to throw to the top from a layback with shitty feet. Maybe it was the hot day and being in the sun, but I had to work for this one. I've climbed easier .12a's, even in considering the fact that this route totally plays to my wheelhouse. Really fun overall. Aug 14, 2017
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.12a
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.12a
The roof crux had me climbing up and down to the ledge many times before dialing into that all out move. There was no chalk on any of the the climb. For the first time I felt like I was really onsighting a sport route. Super psyched. Cerebral upper section. Jan 28, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i think the reason ive see shortys dyno is cause they are tired by that point but i didnt mean to imply it was a manditory jump... foot work will always prevail :) Aug 13, 2010
S. Neoh  
I mostly agree with Lee.
When I TR'ed and led the route in '95 and '96 respectively, it had its original start intact (since fallen off) and was rated 11d. What has not changed, or at least that I am unaware of it, is the way for a short climber like me to do the last few moves statically. Some technical footwork is required but I would say the exit moves are no harder than 10d/11a even for shorties.
I hope to re-do my lead of this route now that it is a bit harder than BITD. Definitely a cool weather route, however. Aug 12, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
The crux is down low for most but shorter climbers have trouble with the last move which many smaller folks dyno through...
i might call the bulk of the route 5.11 with those 2 harder moves thrown in... Aug 12, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Is this route pretty much just the moves after the second bolt up until the stem? Don't get me wrong, I don't mean to devalue them... but is the rest of the route 12a? or does it kind of drop off? Aug 12, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
keep at it ladd... i seem to remember some interesting foot beta i used for the last move... its still a throw but it sets you up well... good luck... Sep 27, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I just climbed Luau for the first time yesterday and loved it... it could be really hard if you dont use the right beta but once i figured it out it felt almost easy... my kind of route... May 9, 2007