Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Chris Smith, 1994
Page Views: 4,367 total · 31/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 18, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

Cool moves and Technical moves on a face make this climb very interesting. Finding and taking rests will make his climb easier...
Some of the upper moves can be spicy on a fall day when the sun comes out and your hands start getting mighty sweaty on the dark-colored hot final flake moves.

The crux of this route will hit you when you try to get off the ledge mid-way up, Hint: it involves an exciting deadpoint to a three finger pocket/crimp. It might seem like the lower bolt on the ledge is kinda silly but keep it clipped it really keeps the rope out of your way for the crux.

Unlike most of this cliff, this route rarely has draws in place. Too bad that it is wet most of the year. Very worthwhile when dry. Warm-up your hips and calves for this one!

Location

Black streak in middle of Waimea. Very open right facing corner. Just left of Silver Surfer(5.12a) and Flying Hawaiian(5.11b)

Protection

7 Bolts to anchors.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I just climbed Luau for the first time yesterday and loved it... it could be really hard if you dont use the right beta but once i figured it out it felt almost easy... my kind of route... May 9, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
keep at it ladd... i seem to remember some interesting foot beta i used for the last move... its still a throw but it sets you up well... good luck... Sep 27, 2007
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Is this route pretty much just the moves after the second bolt up until the stem? Don't get me wrong, I don't mean to devalue them... but is the rest of the route 12a? or does it kind of drop off? Aug 12, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
The crux is down low for most but shorter climbers have trouble with the last move which many smaller folks dyno through...
i might call the bulk of the route 5.11 with those 2 harder moves thrown in... Aug 12, 2010
S. Neoh  
I mostly agree with Lee.
When I TR'ed and led the route in '95 and '96 respectively, it had its original start intact (since fallen off) and was rated 11d. What has not changed, or at least that I am unaware of it, is the way for a short climber like me to do the last few moves statically. Some technical footwork is required but I would say the exit moves are no harder than 10d/11a even for shorties.
I hope to re-do my lead of this route now that it is a bit harder than BITD. Definitely a cool weather route, however. Aug 12, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i think the reason ive see shortys dyno is cause they are tired by that point but i didnt mean to imply it was a manditory jump... foot work will always prevail :) Aug 13, 2010
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.12a
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
  5.12a
The roof crux had me climbing up and down to the ledge many times before dialing into that all out move. There was no chalk on any of the the climb. For the first time I felt like I was really onsighting a sport route. Super psyched. Cerebral upper section. Jan 28, 2011
cashmab
  5.12a
cashmab  
  5.12a
This route was totally in style for me, and I think .12a is a fair grade. I didn't find the "crux" all that....well....cruxy. I found almost everything above the "crux" fairly sustained and taxing, in a balancy technical sort of way. A lot of tick-tacking your way up delicate feet and small half pad crimps with not a lot of great rest opportunities. The finish baffled me until I realized that you just have to throw to the top from a layback with shitty feet. Maybe it was the hot day and being in the sun, but I had to work for this one. I've climbed easier .12a's, even in considering the fact that this route totally plays to my wheelhouse. Really fun overall. Aug 14, 2017