Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Joe Kinder
Page Views: 846 total · 10/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Dec 12, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the direct start to Maui Wowie, coming directly out from deep in the cave. Unfortunately, it was unknowingly bolted in an unusually dry year and because of it's usual seep, is rarely in condition. From the back, work your way out the fun horizontal roof on mostly good flakes to a hard, bouldery lip sequence that includes slaps and drop knees to a big throw. Get yourself established in the Maui corner, get a shake and continue on up on easier climbing.

You will want a good, quick and attentive belayer for this route, preferably heavier than you to keep you off the ground while making quick clips. I played Atlas and moved about a dumptruck of rocks from under the base (which turned into the trail) to lower it, but it is still pretty close. Also, some of the flake's connection to the ceiling may be a little dubious and have been reinforced. Avoid climbing on them if they are damp.With all that, if you can catch it when it is dry, it is a really fun, bouldery route.

Cleaned and bolted by me, but Joe Kinder snagged the FA, the bastard :)

Location

When you come up the approach trail from below, turn and walk about 50 left at the cliff. Look for the deepest "cave like" part of the low roof. It is just right of the Urban Surfer and Barracuda

Protection

Eyebolts and anchor. A bouldering pad in key spots may not be a bad idea if it is handy.

Photos

- No Photos -
M Sprague
New England
  5.13c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13c
If this was a boulder problem and all nice and dry, it would be worth 4 stars for the moves, but as a route it is a little short and inconsistent. Plus it is surrounded by such great competition. Dec 12, 2011