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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lee Hansche, 4th o' July 2011 (TRed in the past?)
Page Views: 1,614 total, 21/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The most direct line up the less than vertical face to the left of the Hawaii 5.0 chimney.
Some may call it slab but it climbs like a low angle face. You are mostly on your feet but you need to pull pretty hard on many small sidepulls and underclings. Footwork is king on this tricky little climb.

Start in the middle of the wall under the first bolt. Trend up and left on decent holds to a sharp gaston. The crux starts hear and doesn't end til the 4th bolt. Climb up and right to some small underclings then make a big move right, or if you are under 6 feet tall make a few harder moves to gain the same hold. Continue up good but insecure moves heading back left until you catch a break above the 4th bolt and you can cruise to the top.

This line or one much like it was likely done on toprope in the past. I Believe this is the most pure line up the face and deserved to be bolted and hence, see some traffic. So far people who have seen the line have been psyched to give it a try.

Warning: the difficulty is height dependent but my friend who is not tall (5'5"ish) figured out beta for her so you can to!

Location

left of the 5.14 sector. Just left of Hawaii 5.0 chimney. Just right of Groupie Fantasy.

Protection

5 bolts to anchor with fixed biners.

Clipping the 4th bolt was a little delicate for me, but with the right foot holds and body position its not bad.

Photos

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Olivia P.
  5.12b/c
Olivia P.  
  5.12b/c
Thanks, Lee! I was able to send it on top rope yesterday. I still have to go back to get the lead send, however. Aug 10, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Olivia, I'm so glad you really enjoyed the climb! I agree it is very good and such a different style than the other climbs at Waimea. I made sure it was doable for shorter climbers before I bolted it but it is certainly much harder. I wouldn't be surprised if your send will be the "FSA" first short ascent haha. Let me know when it goes!! Aug 6, 2017
Olivia P.
  5.12b/c
Olivia P.  
  5.12b/c
I got on this climb a few days ago at camp, and I was really surprised at how good it is. Given the lack of recognition, I wasn't expecting it to be as amazing as it was. The movement was super fun, the holds were really interesting, and it was extremely technical. To me, it felt harder than Static Cling (which I have done), but just as good, if not better. The route felt very sustained, though there were some reachy moves. I'm only 5'2" but I was able to figure out beta that worked, so it is possible for really short people. I got every move and I'm excited to go back in a week for (hopefully) the send. I'm really glad that I was able to get on this climb, which deserves, in my opinion, much more traffic. Aug 4, 2017
Michael Z.
  5.12
Michael Z.  
  5.12
Hard! Nice job again Lee! Oct 15, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
nice mike, im glad you got on it! i agree that its harder than static... i think of Static as a few move v4 (12a) slab boulder prob, this is MUCH more sustained, route with more hard moves in a row, and its much higher quality... i have no idea where the grade will land once it sees more traffic but i think its very worth while no matter what it is :) Oct 14, 2011
Michael Z.
  5.12
Michael Z.  
  5.12
I found this significantly harder and more slabby than "Static Cling" fun and defiantly insecure! Oct 14, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks man! it certainly was oppressive out there today haha... Jul 4, 2011
S. Neoh  
Nice send and interesting line, Lee. From what I can remember, the line we happened to play on years ago started further to the right and trended slightly left towards Groupie near the top. Congrats, esp since today's conditions were not optimal for thin face / hard slab. Jul 4, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
not great footage but this is the route... hard to see what im working with from so far away but you get the idea...
youtube.com/watch?v=i8PzLKl… Jul 4, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I'm itching to hear what others think of the grade so if you climb it please vote on the grade!
its really fun for its style! Jul 4, 2011