Type: Trad
FA: Heinrich The Squirrel (with a shoulder stand off his brother. His brother got the first solo right after)
Page Views: 4,812 total · 31/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

At the far left end of Waimea Cliff, separating the steep China Beach Wall and Vantage Point Slab at right angle to it, is a low angled Chimney. For the easiest line, scramble up a few moves, then tunnel into the back and up. This is mostly used to get to the anchors atop the slab to set up a TR. There is no protection, but once you go into the tunnel it would be very hard to fall anywhere.
A bit more like climbing is to not tunnel back, but stay near the lip . That goes at about 5.3. A TR or solo head recommended. A bit contrived, but very nice climbing is to layback up the slab using the arete. That goes at maybe 5.7 and a TR is very recommended as it is smearing with rounded handholds.

After visiting family in Bavaria for the Summer, Hermann wanted to show off his new found alpine skills, so got his brother to run up to Waimea with him. After relieving himself and while buttoning up his new fashionable knickers, Heinrich decided to get the better of him and leapt on to his shoulders and up the climb. Hermann ran after him, with both topping out and then doing the first free descents of the slab. Nobody is sure of the exact line of descent as it happened so fast..

Location Suggest change

Between the Vantage Point Slab and the steep China Beach Wall

Protection Suggest change

None, or TR.

There is a bolted anchor at the top of the slab. I think you will need some slings to set up a TR. You will have some swing if you come off at the bottom