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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Alan Cattabriga 1990
Page Views: 793 total, 31/month
Shared By: Eli on Oct 7, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This wild and very overhanging V groove is a rare sight at Wiamea for two reasons; one being that it is rated under 5.12, and the other being that it is a cool trad route packed into the land of bolts and prehung draws. I'll add photos and a better description when I get on it.

Location

Just above the trail, in between Charlie Don't Surf and Sinister 6000.

Protection

One bolt, single rack to 4"
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11+ PG13
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11+ PG13
Here is a video of my lead on this thing. Wish you could see what and where I placed the gear but I'll say, it's tricky but protectable...
youtu.be/JfQemxDwrk8 Oct 8, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Nice work Eric! I'll get on it someday. Sep 19, 2016
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.11d
Finally sent this one. One of the most core intensive 25 feet of climbing I've done. This is actually a very cool climb. I wish there was an anchor so more people would give it a go. Here's a video of how I did it. There must be a better way. Lee Hansche and Eli Buzzell, show me how to do it with gear. Don't hurt yourself!!!
youtu.be/hGdEZaKm-AQ Sep 19, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Will do! Oct 8, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.11d
Trad climbing is not my forte - I only trad climb when I have to, and even then I stick to easy routes.
As far as I noticed, the bottom third is no big deal. The top third is where you will have your best pros. The middle third might be more of a problem and potentially sketchy. I would suggest you rap down and figure out your pros before giving it a go. Oct 8, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
Thanks Eric, Lee told me that you did that and I am excited to get on it! Does it look like it takes decent gear? Oct 8, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.11d
I spent a couple of hours in August cleaning this route. The wall on the left side was filthy. While I was there, I was able to brush most of that wall so now Charlie don't surf should dry faster because tbe moss that was stuck in most of the cracks is gone and won't retain water as much. Oct 8, 2015