Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Alan Cattabriga 1990
Page Views: 1,064 total · 27/month
Shared By: Eli . on Oct 7, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This wild and very overhanging V groove is a rare sight at Wiamea for two reasons; one being that it is rated under 5.12, and the other being that it is a cool trad route packed into the land of bolts and prehung draws. I'll add photos and a better description when I get on it.

Location

Just above the trail, in between Charlie Don't Surf and Sinister 6000.

Protection

One bolt, single rack to 4"

Photos

Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal  
  5.11d
I spent a couple of hours in August cleaning this route. The wall on the left side was filthy. While I was there, I was able to brush most of that wall so now Charlie don't surf should dry faster because tbe moss that was stuck in most of the cracks is gone and won't retain water as much. Oct 8, 2015
Eli .
GMC3500
5.11+
Eli .   GMC3500
5.11+
Thanks Eric, Lee told me that you did that and I am excited to get on it! Does it look like it takes decent gear? Oct 8, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal  
  5.11d
Trad climbing is not my forte - I only trad climb when I have to, and even then I stick to easy routes.
As far as I noticed, the bottom third is no big deal. The top third is where you will have your best pros. The middle third might be more of a problem and potentially sketchy. I would suggest you rap down and figure out your pros before giving it a go. Oct 8, 2015
Eli .
GMC3500
5.11+
Eli .   GMC3500
5.11+
Will do! Oct 8, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal  
  5.11d
Finally sent this one. One of the most core intensive 25 feet of climbing I've done. This is actually a very cool climb. I wish there was an anchor so more people would give it a go. Here's a video of how I did it. There must be a better way. Lee Hansche and Eli Buzzell, show me how to do it with gear. Don't hurt yourself!!!
youtu.be/hGdEZaKm-AQ Sep 19, 2016
Eli .
GMC3500
5.11+
Eli .   GMC3500
5.11+
Nice work Eric! I'll get on it someday. Sep 19, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11+ PG13
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11+ PG13
Here is a video of my lead on this thing. Wish you could see what and where I placed the gear but I'll say, it's tricky but protectable...
youtu.be/JfQemxDwrk8 Oct 8, 2016