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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: original:Dave graham 10/98, Jaws 2: Vasya Vorotnikov 10/07
Page Views: 25,435 total · 276/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 28, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Originally a Dave Graham 5.14b, two key holds broke off making it considerably harder. Many very solid climbers attempted the broken line over a few years before Vasya put in an intense amount of work over the better part of a year and snagged the first ascent of what is likely the hardest route east of the Rockies. He was shy about grading it since he had not yet climbed 5.14d but many strong climbers had speculated that it could be 5.15a so that was what it was given tentatively. To date, Jaws II has seen 5 ascents that I know of and the 5.15 grade seems to be sticking. It seems that being local is helpful for projecting
jaws due to the fact that this climb is very conditions dependent and our weather is very unpredictable.

There are two very hard cruxes, the lower one being in the v12/v13 range and the upper one being a huge v10/v11 dead point. There is no real rest on the route unless you count the v6 section in the middle which must feel nice after the intensity of the first crux but I'm sure leaves something to be desired.

All in all, a striking line up one of the more beautiful sections of waimea, one of the east coast's finest cliffs. If you've got what it takes, get after it!

Location

Left of the China Beach on the big kids wall, left side of Wiamea.

Protection

8 bolts to anchor
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
youtube.com/watch?v=vyNh2mz…

Vasya sending Jaw II! May 18, 2010
James Otey   NH
According to Vasya, its a V12/13 boulder problem to tiny right hand pinch, followed by a v6 "rest." After the rest, huck a massive v10/11 deadpoint and then finish up with the top iron cross move on China beach and then mop up the rest of the 5.12 outro. Sep 28, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
thanks otey, i thought thats what he had said but wanted to play it safe... Sep 28, 2010
S. Neoh  
For the lack of a better place to ask the question - did any of the big boys try the Bill Clinton Project? Sep 28, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Also did anyone repeat this route? Sep 28, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
no one got on bill clinton...
and no one sent jaws but with the bad conditions Daniel Woods put in a really good show on Jaws... if he wants it im sure he could get in in cold dry temps.... Sep 28, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Daniel Wood comments from 8a.nu:

"2nd asc. spent a few days on it a couple years ago and did it 3rd day this year. Hard route to grade and very specialized.

The breakdown is a 2 move 8A+ for the first crux followed by a mini 12d into a 7C+ lurp dyno move. both cruxes involve around one low percentage move each. the outro section is around 8a. At first I thought 9a but after falling off the 2nd crux twice and having to fight in good conditions, I thought this could be harder. Psyched route season begins." Oct 5, 2010
James Otey   NH
Daniel on the 2nd ascent of Jaws II

deadpointmag.com/climbing-v… Dec 7, 2010
James Otey   NH
I belayed Mike Foley on the 3rd Ascent today!

Video:

youtube.com/watch?v=tAnl6SR… Jul 24, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Damn, he has gotten strong. Rumney is all climbed out for him now. Poor guy is going to have to climb up Jaws, traverse China Glide and back down Livin Astro for a challenge..or maybe refree Mr. Gerbick or learn how to stick to Bill Clinton's belly. (..or continue pushing the grade of barefoot Rumney climbing. 13a is the hardest so far that I know of.)

Congratulations, Mike. Jul 24, 2011
S. Neoh  
Darn, I saw him in the Parking Lot at 6.30p today and did not congratulate him. I did not know he had just sent Jaws II. Big props to Mike. I have always liked him; such a great 'kid' (I can say that because I am old).
No worries, Mike could always stay out West next summer and show the locals at Rifle a thing or two. Or he could come back and free BIll Clinton. My guess is Zebby won't mind. Jul 24, 2011
Emmett Lyman
Somerville, MA
Emmett Lyman   Somerville, MA
We were next door on Flyin H when Mike sent it. He stopped by afterward - really cool guy and modest about the send. Congrats Mike - hope to hear more awesome sends from you in the future! Jul 24, 2011
Julius Grisette
Carbondale
Julius Grisette   Carbondale
Who bolted this route? Sep 22, 2017
Joe M.    
Good bet it was Ward Smith or Mark Sprague... Sep 22, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I replaced a bolt or two when Vasya was working on it, but didn't originally bolt it. I vaguely remember Ward doing some work on it earlier, but am not sure on the earliest history. Sep 24, 2017

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