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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Dave Graham, Oct 1999
Page Views: 10,764 total · 133/month
Shared By: James Otey on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Description

Livin' Astro is perhaps the most stunning and aesthetic line in the entire east. Before the holds on Jaws were broken in 2006, this was the hardest route east of the Mississippi (The Fly I guess...).

Livin' Astro is easily recognized by its stark and intimidating 45 degree black arete, which appears to be void of holds and absolutely impossible to ascend. As is the case with many lines at Rumney, Livin' Astro holds extremely bouldery sequences separated by decent rests.

Start by climbing "That Crack," working up past stances where the first 3 bolts can be clipped. Bust out on to the arete proper using a left hand crimp and right heel hooks, navigating past poor pinches and micro edges. After clipping the 5th bolt, make a big move to a cutout block on the corner, which holds a sloper that allows for a quick shake. This deposits you at the first crux: a leftward traverse on a slopey crimp rail involving heel hooks, toe hooks, and a huge body tension intensive crossover move to a sidepull/undercling.

After gaining a massive rest jug and recovering to your hearts content, the final boulder problem crux can be mounted. Using a left sidepull and shallow undercling and reach up to a left hand mono-stack, busting out right to the arete and making a final big move to the slopey lip where the anchors can be clipped. Phew...

Location

The 5.14 alcove on the far left side of Waimea. The rightmost route

Protection

7 bolts, draws almost always in-situ

Photos

S. Neoh  
CONGRATS, Josh!
Wish I had seen this video before bumping into your at Metro the other night. Nice send and you're climbing great, Josh!! Nov 7, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
everything looks good just a little mossy, should clean up well :) Jun 28, 2011
S. Neoh  
Lee, I have heard from several sources that Catch the Wave is really good. It was already established when I started visiting Waimea in the early 90's.
FA by Scott Stevenson & Alan C according to Ward's guide. How are the bolts today? (Too hard for me now.) Jun 27, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
yeah good history mark... and thanks for the info about the alleged drilling... i've been eying Catch the Wave for a long time, it looks rad... recently while shooting photos from that anchor i decided i should rap in at some point and clean it off a bit then give it a go... Jun 27, 2011
S. Neoh  
Fascinating story, Mark. Makes for a good read over lunch. Iker got shut down by this route, huh? Wow. Jun 27, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Has anybody climbed up to the first bolt yet (with a stick clip) staying out of That Crack? Jun 27, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Nice Description, Otey.

Dave Graham paid me $100 for the route after hounding me to get on it practically before the glue for the bolts was dry and I had finished cleaning it. So I asked him if he would mind paying for the bolts so I could go bolt another project for myself. He could have saved himself the $100 bucks if he had waited a week or two for me to realize it was going to be way too hard for me, but that was his donation to Rumney, as I think I used the money to re-bolt other routes.

It really is an aesthetic line with cool moves. The cruxes are pretty reachy, especially the top one. I know Iker Pou was shut down by the reach. One thing I would like to make clear: I heard Chris Sharma didn't want to get on it because somebody told him it was chipped. I think they were referring to the finger pocket near the top. It was not chipped. It is a natural pocket, that may look worked from when I cleaned the crud out with my screw driver. It is absolutely not a drilled pocket. If there was any argument for me having gone over the gray line while cleaning, it would have to be the removing of some loose flakes on the arete, which didn't make any holds or otherwise change the difficulty. So don't let a rumor keep you off a beautiful piece of rock.

Another line, right next to it, that often gets overlooked , but is really cool and worthy of a post and more ascents is Catch the Wave, the 12b/c that takes the undercling flake out left from the top of That Crack. Jun 27, 2011

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