Type: Sport
FA: Dave Graham, Oct 1999
Page Views: 13,240 total · 119/month
Shared By: James Otey on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Livin' Astro is perhaps the most stunning and aesthetic line in the entire east. Before the holds on Jaws were broken in 2006, this was the hardest route east of the Mississippi (The Fly I guess...).

Livin' Astro is easily recognized by its stark and intimidating 45 degree black arete, which appears to be void of holds and absolutely impossible to ascend. As is the case with many lines at Rumney, Livin' Astro holds extremely bouldery sequences separated by decent rests.

Start by climbing "That Crack," working up past stances where the first 3 bolts can be clipped. Bust out on to the arete proper using a left hand crimp and right heel hooks, navigating past poor pinches and micro edges. After clipping the 5th bolt, make a big move to a cutout block on the corner, which holds a sloper that allows for a quick shake. This deposits you at the first crux: a leftward traverse on a slopey crimp rail involving heel hooks, toe hooks, and a huge body tension intensive crossover move to a sidepull/undercling.

After gaining a massive rest jug and recovering to your hearts content, the final boulder problem crux can be mounted. Using a left sidepull and shallow undercling and reach up to a left hand mono-stack, busting out right to the arete and making a final big move to the slopey lip where the anchors can be clipped. Phew...

Location

The 5.14 alcove on the far left side of Waimea. The rightmost route

Protection

7 bolts, draws almost always in-situ

Photos