Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 350 total · 4/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 22, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun toprope line that sticks completely to the slabby wall to the right of, and then meeting up with Groupie Fantasy (5.11c). It had a bit more independent climbing than i thought it would. Worth doing if you like this sort of thing.

Start about in the middle of the slab wall and follow a weakness up and left using micro edges and smears. Meet up with Groupie Fantasy around the 3rd bolt. Pull or dance your way over the small overlap and on to a more moderate finish.

Location

On the slab to the left of the classic 5.14 section. You can scramble up the Hawaii 5.0 chimney to an anchor on top of that detached block. There is a piton that works well for a directional.

Protection

TR chain anchors and piton for directional.

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
..and don't forget Hawaii 5O, the arete to the right. If you stay outside of the chimney and run up the arete, it is actually a nice route. I have been tempted over the years to put a few bolts in so it could be lead, but decided to keep it clean, since you can get to the anchors by tunneling in the back, and it is slightly contrived staying on the outside. Jun 22, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11
I TRed a direct line up the middle of the slab... it is independent and not contrived... i couldnt see why it hadnt been bolted... It would be 5.12 something i think, i just worked out the moves today didnt link it... whats the deal? would i be lynched for bolting a hard slab here? Jun 22, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Yeah, that is a nice line. people used to set that up more often in the past. I would be more inclined to bolt the easiest line to the anchors and leave the rest as TRs, but that is just me. I guess just talk to a bunch more people and see what they think. I believe a bunch of people have thought about various lines there, but decided to do other lines elsewhere. If the arete gets bolted, I think it should definitely be done with glue-ins so they don't loosen up. Jun 22, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11
yeah, i dont want to piss anyone off... it seems like its not likely that folks will agree on what the right line to bolt would be... its fine as a TR i just have a thing for hard slabs so id like to be able to lead it... Jun 22, 2011
S. Neoh  
Years ago, not long after Groupie went up, my slabmaster friend Leo and I played on a line up the middle of that slab, as many have. We climbed enough of the line to know that it is hard and concluded, as you have, that a hard slab line is more in keeping with NoCo than Rumney, especially since it is 50 feet from China Beach (the 13b version then).
That said, a lot has changed in the last 16/17 years and, as Mark said, ask around and see what the 'regulars' think. My personal opinion is if an independent line there got bolted, people will climb it. But in this case, it won't see a lot of traffic.
Good luck. Jun 22, 2011
It's an independent line, and not contrived. I say bolt it. Jun 22, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11
thanks for your 2 cents, though a hard slab is more of a NoCo style i dont think that it should be that way... i have lots of respect for the climbers who came before me and the way things were done but why shouldnt rumney climbers have the oportunity to climb with their feet too haha... i guess a big difference is that these days at rumney if its not bolted no one will climb it... is anyone else out there in to hard climbing on low angle routes? or is it just me? Jun 22, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
If it is bolted well (so a 5 foot girl can clip), I actually think it would get a fair amount of traffic. Personally, I actually kind of like slabs. I just don't like dealing with 100 foot runouts like in the old days. Go for it. Just, if you don't mind, think about the arete and if that was bolted also, how it would work out, so one doesn't jack the other, or if it would look grid bolted to death. I remember thinking that the middle route could be best bolted if maybe the ones on Groupie Fantasy were moved a little. I doubt John would mind if that was a consensus opinion. So, if all the lines on that wall were planned out together we would get the best results. If you see Smitty up there, I would see what he thinks. He might have some good ideas. Jun 22, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11
the line i was looking at wouldnt come too close to Groupie... ill take a closer look when im up there... id love to talk to smitty and anyone else who has done a good bit of developing up there... Jun 22, 2011
S. Neoh  
About climbing harder slabs, I've always had a phobia about becoming a human cheese grater or catching a foot during a fall and flipping backwards and bashing my head in. Besides, remember this axiom - "Friends don't let friends climb slabs" ? :):) Jun 22, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11
i always liked that saying until my friends decided not to climb slabs with me haha :) Jun 23, 2011
I think a 5.12 slab would be an awesome addition to Waimea- especially if it was leadable. Jun 23, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11
after getting it clean on TR today (after a good bit of effort... the thing is hard) and having watched lily figure out smaller climber beta for it im leaning toward bolting it at this point... if you have a good reason why this would be a bad idea speak up... Jun 26, 2011
caesar.salad
earth
caesar.salad   earth
Has anyone bolted this yet? Oct 24, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Vantage or Lee's 12? I think bolting Vantage at this point, the face would be pretty grid bolted. I could see doing the arete personally before that because it is so beautiful, but it is slightly contrived not pulling into the chimney. Oct 25, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11
agreed vantage would be a squeeze i think Oct 27, 2014
caesar.salad
earth
caesar.salad   earth
I meant Vantange. I guess I haven't seen it recently enough to notice. I'll check out the 12 lee was talking about next time I'm there. A 5.12 slab sounds like a fun project. Nov 24, 2014