Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Joe Kinder
Page Views: 640 total · 16/month
Shared By: Eli . on Oct 7, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Originally an open project, this line was first sent by Joe Kinder in 2000. Ward has described this line as "long, sustained, and powerful".

Description from Will McFarland: Do a V5 intro crimp section to a big jug then clip the next two draws. From the jug, traverse out left to the big chimney (difficult) to gain a massive kneebar (pad recommended). Through some trickery, remove the kneebar and do a couple of moves to gain a seemingly enhanced undercling with your left hand. Do a reachy move to a mono slot/crimp (crux) with your right hand and clip. Cross over left hand to slot above mono and go up to a series of crimps/gastons/sidepulls. Do one more massive move to a jug crimp to clip the last draw then do one more moderate boulder problem, reaching out left to a corner and one more jump to the anchor jug. This thing is solid in the grade and I think is harder than the more popular 13d's at Waimea. Essentially a long V10 boulder from the kneebar.

Location

To the left of Rhythm X

Protection

Five bolts

Photos

Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
  5.13d
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
  5.13d
I've tried this one a few times, on the top of my ticklist but suffering from incessant seepage this year. Do a V5 intro crimp section to a big jug then clip the next two draws. From the jug, traverse out left to the big chimney (difficult) to gain a massive kneebar (pad recommended). Through some trickery, remove the kneebar and do a couple of moves to gain a seemingly enhanced undercling with your left hand. Do a reachy move to a mono slot/crimp (crux, extensively enhanced) with your right hand and clip. Cross over left hand to slot above mono and go up to a series of crimps/gastons/sidepulls. Do one more massive move to a jug crimp to clip the last draw then do one more moderate boulder problem, reaching out left to a corner and one more jump to the anchor jug. This thing is solid in the grade and I think is harder than the more popular 13d's at Waimea. Essentially a long V10 boulder from the kneebar. EDIT: sent Sep 2017 Jul 10, 2017
Eli .
GMC3500
5.13d
Eli .   GMC3500
5.13d
Hope you send it Will! conditions will just keep getting better as the year goes on! I updated the route description with your info.

Eli Jul 11, 2017