Type: Trad
FA: Tim Gotwals 1987
Page Views: 5,183 total · 25/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Aug 7, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This may be the least "Rumney" route at Rumney. First off it's protected by trad gear which is a mystery to many Rumney climbers. Second is that parts of it involve jamming and other crack techniques, but it's the squeeze chimney that really sets this one apart from other Rumney crack climbs. Most climbers find groveling in a tight chimney to be a less than preferable way to spend their time but some like myself find it to be part of being an all around climber and it can actually be fun and almost always exciting. Now I will be honest that That Crack is not the best climb of its kind but it is definitely worth while to those who appreciate such climbing styles.

Start to the left of Waimea (5.10d) under the arete of Livin Astro (5.14c) follow cracks until it is possible to wedge in to the narrow chimney (I found left side in to be preferable) and work slowly up placing gear in the crack in the back of the chimney. There is a tricky spot exiting the chimney as it narrows back down from chimney to crack size. Work up to under-clings and out right to the anchors.

As I lowered off I was surprised at how steep the route is. Next to Livin Astro it looks vertical but it's not. Have no fear however, the gear is good.

Location Suggest change

To the left of the super popular Waimea (5.10d) look for the crack/chimney going up to the same ledge that that route ends on. Shares a start with Livin Astro 5.14c.

Protection Suggest change

Regular rack to ring anchors (shared with Great White 5.12d)