Type: Trad
FA: Tom Gotwals 1987
Page Views: 3,158 total · 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 7, 2007 with updates from Ben R
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This may be the least "Rumney" route at Rumney. First off it's protected by trad gear which is a mystery to many Rumney climbers. Second is that parts of it involve jamming and other crack techniques, but it's the squeeze chimney that really sets this one apart from other Rumney crack climbs. Most climbers find groveling in a tight chimney to be a less than preferable way to spend their time but some like myself find it to be part of being an all around climber and it can actually be fun and almost always exciting. Now I will be honest that That Crack is not the best climb of its kind but it is definitely worth while to those who appreciate such climbing styles.

Start to the left of Waimea (5.10d) under the arete of Livin Astro (5.14c) follow cracks until it is possible to wedge in to the narrow chimney (I found left side in to be preferable) and work slowly up placing gear in the crack in the back of the chimney. There is a tricky spot exiting the chimney as it narrows back down from chimney to crack size. Work up to under-clings and out right to the anchors.

As I lowered off I was surprised at how steep the route is. Next to Livin Astro it looks vertical but it's not. Have no fear however, the gear is good.

Location

To the left of the super popular Waimea (5.10d) look for the crack/chimney going up to the same ledge that that route ends on. Shares a start with Livin Astro 5.14c.

Protection

Regular rack to ring anchors (shared with Great White 5.12d)

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I'm not sure that "trad gear...is a mystery to many Rumney climbers." Actually, at Rumney there's a surprising number of climbers who trad climb. They just don't do it at Rumney because the bolted routes are so good. Aug 7, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10a
haha... well that may be true for some but a good number of the people at rumney marvel at how quick draws work, never mind cams... they arent all well rounded like you (you are one of the most well rounded climbers in NH in my opinion)... it is pretty obvious that sport climbing is the thing to do at rumney but people should know that there are some fun trad climbs too...

pardon my joke i dont aim to offend... Aug 8, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Thanks for the compliment Lee, though I wasn't fishing for it (I'll still take it though).

I just worry sometimes about the bad wrap that sport climbers get, you know, like jokes about them gastoning hand cracks and the like. Not all sportos are wimps. Aug 9, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10a
i fully agree, but i was more talking about the folks you see guessing at how to thread the rope through the chains at the top of a climb... there are a ton of people doing that stuff at rumney everyday and those people freak me out... to me it comes down to basic knowledge of climbing skills and techniques which you get a better feel for when you are well rounded like me, you and many other responsible people who frequent rumney... personally I'm wicked stoked on sport climbing right now so i wouldn't talk down to other people who enjoy it... Aug 9, 2007
You guys know how to place gear? That stuff is confusing. I like clipping fixed draws. Aug 14, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10a
for real though, fixed draws do kick ass... Aug 14, 2007
Do I need any big cams to do this or can I get away with just bringing the usual up to #3? Oct 14, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
You should be fine with that, Eli. Oct 14, 2015