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Routes in Waimea

All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Catch the Wave S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rhythm X S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
TABDITO S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad
FA: Tom Gotwals 1987
Page Views: 2,850 total, 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 7, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This may be the least "Rumney" route at Rumney. First off it's protected by trad gear which is a mystery to many Rumney climbers. Second is that parts of it involve jamming and other crack techniques, but it's the squeeze chimney that really sets this one apart from other Rumney crack climbs. Most climbers find groveling in a tight chimney to be a less than preferable way to spend there time but some like myself find it to be part of being an all around climber and it can actually be fun and almost always exciting. Now I will be honest that That Crack is not the best climb of its kind but it is definitely worth while to those who appreciate such climbing styles.

Start to the left of Waimea (5.10d) under the arete of Livin Astro (5.14c) follow cracks until it is possible to wedge in to the narrow chimney (I found left side in to be preferable) and work slowly up placing gear in the crack in the back of the chimney. There is a tricky spot exiting the chimney as it narrows back down from chimney to crack size. Work up to under-clings and out right to the anchors.

As I lowered off I was surprised at how steep the route is. Next to Livin Astro it looks vertical but it's not. Have no fear however, the gear is good.

Location

To the left of the super popular Waimea (5.10d) look for the crack/chimney going up to the same ledge that that route ends on. Shares a start with Livin Astro 5.14c.

Protection

Regular rack to ring anchors (shared with Great White 5.12d)

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
You should be fine with that, Eli. Oct 14, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Do I need any big cams to do this or can I get away with just bringing the usual up to #3? Oct 14, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
for real though, fixed draws do kick ass... Aug 14, 2007
You guys know how to place gear? That stuff is confusing. I like clipping fixed draws. Aug 14, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i fully agree, but i was more talking about the folks you see guessing at how to thread the rope through the chains at the top of a climb... there are a ton of people doing that stuff at rumney everyday and those people freak me out... to me it comes down to basic knowledge of climbing skills and techniques which you get a better feel for when you are well rounded like me, you and many other responsible people who frequent rumney... personally I'm wicked stoked on sport climbing right now so i wouldn't talk down to other people who enjoy it... Aug 9, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Thanks for the compliment Lee, though I wasn't fishing for it (I'll still take it though).

I just worry sometimes about the bad wrap that sport climbers get, you know, like jokes about them gastoning hand cracks and the like. Not all sportos are wimps. Aug 9, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
haha... well that may be true for some but a good number of the people at rumney marvel at how quick draws work, never mind cams... they arent all well rounded like you (you are one of the most well rounded climbers in NH in my opinion)... it is pretty obvious that sport climbing is the thing to do at rumney but people should know that there are some fun trad climbs too...

pardon my joke i dont aim to offend... Aug 8, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I'm not sure that "trad gear...is a mystery to many Rumney climbers." Actually, at Rumney there's a surprising number of climbers who trad climb. They just don't do it at Rumney because the bolted routes are so good. Aug 7, 2007