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Waimea

5.10d, Sport, 50 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 388 votes
FA: John Mallery, 1993
New Hampshire > Rumney > Waimea

Description

A stunning line up a prominent black streak, Waimea is an absolute classic. Sustained, creative moves on all types of holds get harder and pumpier as you near the top, and culminate with a technical crux on water carved grooves. Take your pick between balancy moves on tiny crimps and side pulls, or longer reaches between better holds.

The home of giant ice pillars in the winter, Waimea is sometimes wet into mid summer. Luckily, the route has such a fan base that any chap in the parking lot can tell you whether or not the crux is dry.

Location

Walk across talus past the central Waimea wall and around the corner. Waimea the route is right of the stuning black arete of Livin' Astro. The start of Waimea is recognizable by big incut wafer flakes.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lee Gagnon on waimea on a nice fall day... he sent...
[Hide Photo] Lee Gagnon on waimea on a nice fall day... he sent...
Jordi (Editor for Escalar (Spain's climbing mag)) pulling the crux move of this classic line.
[Hide Photo] Jordi (Editor for Escalar (Spain's climbing mag)) pulling the crux move of this classic line.
a beautiful day on a beautiful route on a beautiful cliff...
[Hide Photo] a beautiful day on a beautiful route on a beautiful cliff...
Joe Kinder on Waimea during the Nor'easter 2010
[Hide Photo] Joe Kinder on Waimea during the Nor'easter 2010
cool lighting & angle I though, not yet represented by the other 28 photos...
[Hide Photo] cool lighting & angle I though, not yet represented by the other 28 photos...
Lee Gagnon the man the myth the obsessed climber...
[Hide Photo] Lee Gagnon the man the myth the obsessed climber...
Mike C on a nice morning
[Hide Photo] Mike C on a nice morning
The falls are all safe on this one. Have some fun going for it. Torie demonstrates the fall from the crux...
[Hide Photo] The falls are all safe on this one. Have some fun going for it. Torie demonstrates the fall from the crux...
jakob...
[Hide Photo] jakob...
starting up this classic piece<br>
[Hide Photo] starting up this classic piece
Nuria Anguita-Bates making the crux move
[Hide Photo] Nuria Anguita-Bates making the crux move
Nuria Anguita-Bates making a fun move out of the rest mid way on this climb.
[Hide Photo] Nuria Anguita-Bates making a fun move out of the rest mid way on this climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alli
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] My first outdoor lead! Waimea has a special place in my heart. Jul 19, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
[Hide Comment] i heard rumor that this route's holds are getting bigger from erosion.... same rumor suggested that it might be up for a downgrade maybe even to a 10b? what do people have to say about this? Aug 12, 2009
James Otey
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Oh rumors... It would take hundreds of years for water to make an appreciable, even noticeable difference. A hold broke last year, but it feels about the same as it always has. Aug 12, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] Mike: Like many routes, beta can make it feel a grade or two easier. Jakob's got this route down to the T. He's also a MUCH better, stronger climber than before... even if he won't let himself think that. :) Aug 13, 2009
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] I wouldn't say the route has gotten easier at all. The route up to the crux may only feel 10b, but the couple crux moves, in my opinion, still feel 10d. And regarding the size of the holds--If anything, they're only becoming more polished from sticky rubber and roadrunner feet, and not bigger from erosion. Aug 18, 2009
hasan Adil
portland,me
[Hide Comment] The route looks amazing. Went to rumney specially to give it a go but was super wet while routes on left and right were dry. I must go there again for it :D Apr 5, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Absolutely outstanding route. Best 5.10 that I've done at Rumney. In fact, it ranks up there with the best 10's at any place I have ever climbed. Though it is a bit short, if you link into 'All the Way-A' it makes for a decently long 5.10. Either way, the movement and rock quality are stellar. This is a very reasonable lead for those looking to break into 5.10+. Aug 12, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] No doubt this is a very good route with a solid 3 stars from me. IMHO, Centerpiece, at a slightly sandbag grade of 10d, is better. Even better would be climbing Peer Pressure whole, without the rest about halfway up. Aug 12, 2010
Harrison Harb
Portland
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Agreed neoh. Other classics at this grade at rumney such as centerpiece and pp feel more difficult. But the movement on this one is tough to beat. Sep 16, 2013
Graham O.
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb, it's hard to believe that there could be this many classics at one crag. Jul 31, 2016