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Routes in Yellowknife Buttress

Abbey Normal S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alaskan Arches S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arctic Circle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Aurora Borealis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bering Strait S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bridge to Nowhere S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cannery Row S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney Sweeps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gifts From Attu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Juno S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lone Ranger T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Lone Wolf T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mosquito S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nanook of the North S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Yeller T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Yellowknife S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yukon Cornelius S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 1,285 ft
GPS: 43.805, -71.843 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 10,970 total, 83/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 25, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

Yellowknife is an out of the way crag that sees so little traffic that the holds normally don't even have chalk on them. Wow, very un-Rumney-like.

All the routes here are between 5.10a and 5.11d. Some are very long by Rumney standards, requiring a two rope rappel, but most times a 60 meter rope will get you back to the ground. Another non-Rumney aspect of this cliff is that the majority of the climbing is less than vertical and more like what you might expect to find on the south buttress of Whitehorse, with crimpy technical face climbing. The front of the cliff is about dead vertical for the most part and is home to a couple killer 5.11s including Alaskan Arches(5.11d).along the gully to the right is the more slabby climbing with a few 10s and 11s.
Most areas at Rumney that have high concentration of 5.10s and 5.11s tend to be crowded, but if you want to escape the Rumney rat-race, spend a day this beautiful area, enjoying shade, quiet, perfect rock and long quality technical routes.

Getting There

Follow directions to the Hinterlands and continue left under the gully and you will find it.Or follow directions to Prudential, and it's the next cliff right of that.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Yellowknife Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cow Patty
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Juno
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yellowknife
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Abbey Normal
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gifts From Attu
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nanook of the North
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Alaskan Arches
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Arctic Circle
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cow Patty 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Juno 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Yellowknife 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Abbey Normal 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Gifts From Attu 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Nanook of the North 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Alaskan Arches 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Arctic Circle 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Yellowknife Buttress »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
That's awesome Eric! Thanks! Aug 28, 2017
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
Five routes at Yellowknife Buttress now have good belay ledges. They are not huge but it should help for both the climber and the belayer.
-Mosquito 5.10d : The belay spot as been leveled.
-Yellowknife 5.10c : Flat area between the tree and the wall. The old tree stump has been removed as well as a lot of roots, moss and earth. Some chunks of rock came down creating good foot holds for the start. With a good brushing, this will be a jewel.
-Cannery Row 5.10d : This route used to be unpleasant to belay. The leafy slope was a bad spot and kept the climbers away.
-Yukon Cornelius 5.11d : The belay ledge that was built a couple of years back just got a new face lift. More spacious and level.
-Abbey Normal 5.10c : A new small ledge should help keeping your balance on that steep slope. Aug 27, 2017
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
Thanks for the email Eric. Looks like Eric will be at Rumney between 8/19 and 8/27 and will be doing some cleaning on rest days. I have the week of 9/1 to 9/10 off and plan of doing the same during this time, more cleaning than climbing for me though. If anyone would like to join in, feel free. Jul 25, 2017
Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
Alan Emery   Lebanon, NH
It's been two years since the last cleaning discussion. Lee and I have been discussing what can be cleaned, and his first suggestion was YK. I have been scrubbing routes in less known areas in NH and VT and am willing to help bring life back to YK. I can hang and scrub all day, but trail work is too much for my ol' bones. I may spend a day or two before September up there scouting and cleaning. I think I climbed one climb there about 8 or 10 years ago, but that was the only time there. Like many others, Hinterlands had a lot to offer on solid ground.

If it is at all possible, and if anyone reads this and knows the area, I'd like to ask a few questions before heading up there. Let me know if you would like to provide some information Jul 24, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Usually replacing bolts is not an organised group activity, rather somebody with the skills and tools decides to pack up a big backpack and walks up there. It is kind of a one or two person job. If you see Chris, Dave, Ward or Pete of the RCA (the usual suspects doing it these days) ask what the best practices are now and if there is anything you can do to help. You can always pick a route you want to climb that is looking green and spend some time giving it a scrub. Jul 30, 2015
Zac St. Jules
New Hampshire
Zac St. Jules   New Hampshire
How would we go about organizing a work day up here? Jul 29, 2015
Zac St. Jules
New Hampshire
Zac St. Jules   New Hampshire
Great crag but definitely needs some love. Most bolts need to be replaced- they're super rusty! Jul 11, 2015
S. Neoh  
When Jolt and Dolt were still "up", Hinterlands can be crazily busy. I went up there once after Jolt came down and we had everything but Giant Man to ourselves, on a nice weekend to boot! In fact, the Pru was busier. I bet YK was empty or practically empty that day. Oct 10, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
My 2 cents: I have climbed everything at Yellow Knife and added 3 routes of my own here... I really like the style of climbing up there, the low angle stuff, long routes and even some slightly inverted crimpy sections... It never made sense to me that there were crowds waiting in line at the hinterlands and there was literally NO ONE 2 minutes up the trail at this amazing crag... with a little trail work it could be very good, with a lot of trail work it could be great :) Oct 10, 2014
S. Neoh  
I dunno, Eric. Nanook and Alaskan Arches sound more appealing to me. :)
There is so much to do up in this neck of the woods. Just amazing. Oct 8, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
Soon, you have to go try Yukon Cornelius. Read Lee's description. It is so accurate to what you will experiment! It's a long one... Oct 8, 2014
S. Neoh  
First, I have to admit I've not climbed the .11 routes here. I've only been on the .10 routes. They are all OK to quite good, though I thought after a couple, the moves became a little repetitive and I developed sore tips from small holds on mostly less-than-vertical rock. Length of the routes here is a definite plus but I would not go so far as to say "perfect rock", even when the routes are clean.
No question, YK a worthwhile destination! Oct 8, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
This crag should see more action but I understand why people don't go.
Yellowknife needs a big revival. I mean a group effort that could transform this crag and bring climbers of the 5.10 - 5.11 level up higher and free up the lower crags.
Here is what would need to be done:
1-a good scrub of each route
2-replace some of the really rusted bolts
3-build a few platforms for belayers (maybe 3)
4-improve the connection trail from Prudential
5-make a big announcement of a big refresh
The trail from Northwest to Prudentiel is so nice that the walk from the parking lot is really not bad.
If some people ever want to join a group effort, let me know, I will come down from Montreal to help. Oct 6, 2014
this crag looks dope. I'm definitely going to have to check it out. May 27, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I've now climbed all of the routes at Yellowknife and I can say for sure that if you like technical face climbing in the 5.10-5.11 range you might want to make a trip out here... Oct 28, 2008

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