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Routes in Yellowknife Buttress

Abbey Normal S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alaskan Arches S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Arctic Circle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Aurora Borealis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bering Strait S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bridge to Nowhere S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cannery Row S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney Sweeps T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cow Patty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gifts From Attu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Juno S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lone Ranger T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Lone Wolf T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mosquito S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nanook of the North S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Old Yeller T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Yellowknife S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yukon Cornelius S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 99 ft
FA: Jim Shimberg 1992
Page Views: 1,373 total, 10/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A long fairly sustained crimpy route lacking a real crux move, more endurance based. Mostly technical foot work intensive climbing with a few nice rests hear and there.... Being less than vertical and 100 feet long its not your usual Rumney 5.10

The first few moves are typically wet and mossy.Follow slippery cracks and face holds and eventually gain a tricky corner which I found to be the crux. Stemming and crimping your way through this will get you to a small ledge. More crimping and some interesting moves past a loose flake (be careful) gain another nice ledge and the final slab. The upper slab was my favorite part of this one. It climbed more like a Cathedral Ledge 5.10 than a Rumney one and I thought it provided nice variety.

Location

There are two distinct sections at Yellowknife Buttress: the front (steep) side and the gully routes on the right (less steep). This is the first of the gully routes as you head right around the corner from the steep side. Look for the wetness and or a dead tree that you may or may not decide to grab if it's wet.

Protection

15 bolts to anchor. 60 meter rope needed.

Photos

M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
I climbed this route on Sunday 10/4. Absolutely awesome and more a mental than physical testpiece. I felt like I had accidentally climbed onto Hotter than Hell at Cathedral when I emerged onto the top slab; it was subtle, thoughtful, and delightful.

As far as the bolting goes, the distance between the 8th and 9th bolt was probably about 10-12 feet, so a 30 foot fall was feasible. 20+ foot falls would have been possible from several points on this climb. The bolts did seem to be in the "old style"...they'll prevent you from being seriously injured if you fall, but mostly you shouldn't plan to be falling off of this one.

An alpine draw on the 7th bolt (out right) was perfect, and climbing over to clip it guided me a little on how to climb that section. I used a normal draw on the 8th bolt (by the scary hollow flake) and it didn't cause major problems, but was kind of awkwardly interacting with the flake. Oct 6, 2015
Eric, I do remember that bolt, I actually fell past this point. I remember traversing right, to make that clip. After that I also clipped the bolt by the big flake extended on an alpine so it wouldn't catch. The bolt I fell at was after this point - I fell onto the extended alpine which added probably 3-4' to the fall, since it was extended on a 1' runner. Sep 24, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.10c
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.10c
In a comment I made before yours, I was talking about the 7th bolt being so far right. My guess is that you might have skipped this one because it seems to be so far off to the right.
I went back again this summer and my partner found that it was easier to climb it by moving far right in that spot and clip the 7th. Then he went up and used a sling on the 8th so the rope wouldn't catch behind the big flake. I will say it again. This route is sooooo good!!!!!! Sep 23, 2015
So I climbed this route on Saturday (9/19/15) and fell at what I believed was the 8th? bolt, with the 9th bolt at eye level. I didn't realize how far I was above my last bolt, but apparently this section was pretty run out. My belayer and I believe that I fell around 30 ft...after I came down, my 2 partners went up after me and both completed the route. We only counted 13 bolts on the climb (not including anchors), and inspected the run out sections on the way down. They both said that the run out sections seemed to be almost exactly 2x the length of all the other sections on the route, so it seemed like the route is missing 2 bolts. The rest of the route is very safely bolted. However, we ran into some people at the Northwest Territories who seemed very well versed in the area. They said it could be missing bolts - or it could have just been bolted in the "old style". Both are believable to me, I fell quite far but only really sustained a small injury to my right shoulder and hip from slamming into the wall. Not to discourage anyone from getting on this route - we all really liked it, just a word of warning that it may not be pleasant to fall in those spots. It was a strange, the route is pretty sustained the whole way - so the run out sections aren't much easier either. Could anyone shine some light on this situation? Sep 23, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.10c
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.10c
This would be busy all the time if it was at a lower crag.
Some bolts are really rusted and would need to be replaced.
The 7th bolt is so far right that I tought it belonged to the next route over. Bad rope drag...
I will be back for this one fore sure and will spend some time cleaning the bottom part. Sep 28, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
glad you like the description and really happy you climbed the route! this cliff gets so little love for how fun it is and its just 2 minutes from hinterlands where people are waiting in line for routes at the same grades... Oct 2, 2011
tscupp
Englewood, CO
  5.10
tscupp   Englewood, CO
  5.10
The description covers it very well, but this was the most fun I had on a Rumney route in quite a while. A bit of a Sport Climbing adventure from the mossy wet start, followed by the "loose flake" that you think the guidebook is referring to and then the REALLY loose flake. The upper third is pretty awesome and would be extremely popular if the rest of the route climbed so well with some great edges and no chalk giving that true onsight feel.

Highly recommend bringing a few long draws in the middle as the bolts zig-zag and can make some significant drag for the last few bolts. Really a good time for a change of pace at rumney, but be prepared for some mild sketchiness as mentioned. Oct 2, 2011