Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Ward Smith 7/15
Page Views: 548 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ward Smith on Jul 19, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

The short, clean vertical face left of Alaskan Arches. Stick-clip, then climb a hard boulder problem. Move right almost to the arch, then back left to another crux. Top out onto the ledge.

Location

The middle of the short vertical face at the toe of the Yellowknife Buttress. A bit left of the obvious arch of Alaskan Arches

Protection

4 bolts to bolted lower-off

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
Years ago, after inspecting the spot, I actually went so far as to drag my drill up to put up a route in this very section... I gave it a good cleaning then started testing moves, I found the rock where I was climbing to be crumbly under my feet and decided the line would only last a few ascents before it was no good. I hope you found the sweet stuff it certainly was a beautiful piece of rock and I was sad to not put it up. Jul 19, 2015
Ward Smith
Wendell MA
  5.12b
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
  5.12b
Sorry Lee! Lots of possible starts. The line I did took little cleaning and was very solid. I did glue reinforce a good undercling hold at the upper redpoint crux (not on National Forest land so not illegal). Not strictly necessary, as it seemed fairly solid, but a cool hold that I want to stay in place.

Give it a run, it climbs really well and offers lot of climbing in 4 bolts! I was hoping it would be harder, like 13, but it flows really well at the mid 12 grade. Jul 19, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
No worries dude. I just saw your bolts Monday (didn't climb it yet though) as i expected it follows a different line than mine. mine was on the very smooth wall to the right and it went straight through the roof... our lines would only have shared 8 feet of climbing or so and mine would have been more like 12+/13a (and the first half would have crumbled :/. I might still like to put a 1 or 2 bolt variation through the roof on the cool moves I found. if that would be ok. I knew you wouldn't put up a route on junk rock, I'm glad you found the sweet spot! Jul 22, 2015
Ward Smith
Wendell MA
  5.12b
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
  5.12b
Lee, I rapped down and started cleaning the straight-up finish, as that is what I wanted to do initially, but the holds keep leading you off left so I followed what I thought was the natural line. Jul 22, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
Cool :) that's one thing I love about route development. It is absolutely a creative act even though we are working with what is already there. Neat to see what different people will pick out. With your vast experience I'm sure your line is well picked! Jul 23, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
As a follow up to the above discussion:
I have bolted and climbed a 2 bolt variation finish through the roof above this route. It is powerful and technical for a shot variation. I think it is worth while and I hope others agree! Check it out once the peregrines are done doing their nesting thing. And don't forget to warm up on Juno a fun new 5.10 I added just left of this one. Apr 11, 2016